Doug Elliot mouthpiece
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
Yesterday arrived me my first DE mouthpiece. It was a MT 99 rim with a C+ cup and two shanks. One D alto S shank for my Conn 34 H Alto and one D alto shank for my altos with normal tenor receiver. First impression, great craftmanship. Rim, cup and shank fits perfect together. Silver plaiting was great. I try the S shank in my Conn alto and was surprised. The intonation was much better as with any other mouthpiece. All the lines up were perfect in tune. The middle deep C+ cup gives the lower notes a full warm sound, that i like on the Conn alto. The special alto backbore improved my high register noticeable. The rim gives a comfortable feeling on my lips. After a few minutes playing, i fall in love with these mouthpiece. If i need more mouthpiece stuff in the future, my adress is Doug Elliot. Thanks Doug for this great craftmanship.
- Doug_Elliott
- Posts: 4155
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
Thanks Heinz!
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I play on dougs pieces exclusively since 6 or 7 years. After I dialed in shank, cup and rim I never looked back. They feel great, for me they are very efficient and let me do what I want to do... at least when I am in shape. But thats not the fault of the mouthpiece!
- conn88Hagmann
- Posts: 492
- Joined: Aug 09, 2018
Dialed in??
- Matt_K
- Posts: 4809
- Joined: Mar 21, 2018
[quote="conn88Hagmann"]Dialed in??[/quote]
Usually when people say that it means they tried a number of combinations until they got one that was clearly superior than the others for that person.
Usually when people say that it means they tried a number of combinations until they got one that was clearly superior than the others for that person.
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="Matt K"]<QUOTE author="conn88Hagmann" post_id="66266" time="1535314455" user_id="3611">
Dialed in??[/quote]
Usually when people say that it means they tried a number of combinations until they got one that was clearly superior than the others for that person.
</QUOTE>
Right
Dialed in??[/quote]
Usually when people say that it means they tried a number of combinations until they got one that was clearly superior than the others for that person.
</QUOTE>
Right
- timothy42b
- Posts: 1812
- Joined: Mar 27, 2018
This is Heinz's first DE so I'll mention this.
In a post in 2012, Doug said putting oil or grease on the threads does not help them not to stick, but a bit of Teflon tape works.
He also has very clear instructions how to disassemble if they do get stuck.
In a post in 2012, Doug said putting oil or grease on the threads does not help them not to stick, but a bit of Teflon tape works.
He also has very clear instructions how to disassemble if they do get stuck.
- Matt_K
- Posts: 4809
- Joined: Mar 21, 2018
Measure the threads and get the appropriate width teflon tape! I accidentally ordered one that was way too wide. They make ones that are as wide as the threads but I've forgotten which size. Fortunately, they're rather cheap and a single application lasts a few years unless you're swapping the parts out (which I usually don't once I settle on a combination).
- elmsandr
- Posts: 1373
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="timothy42b"]This is Heinz's first DE so I'll mention this.
In a post in 2012, Doug said putting oil or grease on the threads does not help them not to stick, but a bit of Teflon tape works.
He also has very clear instructions how to disassemble if they do get stuck.[/quote]
To add some dorkery unnecessary information from my line of work, adding anything to the threads that reduces friction while tightening the joint will INCREASE the clamp load applied with the same level of torque. That is, when you lube up the threads and turn it by hand, the two parts will be joined tighter than if you had not lubed the threads. This can actually make it harder to get them apart eventually.
There are a lot of good threads from TTF that had how to un-stick the pieces. If we can't find them, I am sure we can re-create them.
Cheers,
Andy
In a post in 2012, Doug said putting oil or grease on the threads does not help them not to stick, but a bit of Teflon tape works.
He also has very clear instructions how to disassemble if they do get stuck.[/quote]
To add some dorkery unnecessary information from my line of work, adding anything to the threads that reduces friction while tightening the joint will INCREASE the clamp load applied with the same level of torque. That is, when you lube up the threads and turn it by hand, the two parts will be joined tighter than if you had not lubed the threads. This can actually make it harder to get them apart eventually.
There are a lot of good threads from TTF that had how to un-stick the pieces. If we can't find them, I am sure we can re-create them.
Cheers,
Andy
- Matt_K
- Posts: 4809
- Joined: Mar 21, 2018
Andy, does that include graphite? I Know someone mentioned using it but the teflon works so well for me that I've not thought of it since.
- timothy42b
- Posts: 1812
- Joined: Mar 27, 2018
Graphite plus humidity can cake pretty hard.
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
[quote="timothy42b"]This is Heinz's first DE so I'll mention this.
In a post in 2012, Doug said putting oil or grease on the threads does not help them not to stick, but a bit of Teflon tape works.
He also has very clear instructions how to disassemble if they do get stuck.[/quote]
Yes, you are right, my first. But as I know myself, not my last. :biggrin: :good:
In a post in 2012, Doug said putting oil or grease on the threads does not help them not to stick, but a bit of Teflon tape works.
He also has very clear instructions how to disassemble if they do get stuck.[/quote]
Yes, you are right, my first. But as I know myself, not my last. :biggrin: :good:
- Doug_Elliott
- Posts: 4155
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
I tried Teflon tape but decided it was a waste of time. And yes, lubrication pretty much just allows it to go together tighter.
Anyway, the threads are not really the source of friction that causes it to stick. It's the contact between the top of the cup and bottom of the rim. There's far more concentrated pressure on that surface than on the much longer length of thread surface spread out over several rotations.
Anyway, the threads are not really the source of friction that causes it to stick. It's the contact between the top of the cup and bottom of the rim. There's far more concentrated pressure on that surface than on the much longer length of thread surface spread out over several rotations.