rubber ring in slide receiver
- uro
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Jan 01, 2021
Hi guys,
did anyone place a rubber ring (or something similar) between the inner and outer slide in the receiver to prevent the occasional clangs when you return fast to the first position?
Where do you get it?
thanks
uro
did anyone place a rubber ring (or something similar) between the inner and outer slide in the receiver to prevent the occasional clangs when you return fast to the first position?
Where do you get it?
thanks
uro
- Bonearzt
- Posts: 833
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
It might be a plain O-Ring available at any hardware store.
But I prefer felt rings as they feel a bit softer.
But I prefer felt rings as they feel a bit softer.
- uro
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Jan 01, 2021
Thanks, for your reply.
Do you use this: <LINK_TEXT text="https://www.hickeys.com/music/brass/tro ... t-of-4.php">https://www.hickeys.com/music/brass/trombone/accessories/bass_trombone_custom_and_replacement_parts/products/sku077497-standardtrombone-slide-bumper-feltsset-of-4.php</LINK_TEXT>
How do you place it? Sorry but I am a newbie!
Do you use this: <LINK_TEXT text="https://www.hickeys.com/music/brass/tro ... t-of-4.php">https://www.hickeys.com/music/brass/trombone/accessories/bass_trombone_custom_and_replacement_parts/products/sku077497-standardtrombone-slide-bumper-feltsset-of-4.php</LINK_TEXT>
How do you place it? Sorry but I am a newbie!
- baileyman
- Posts: 1169
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
There is an easy DIY.
Find a ring of shock cord used by (mostly) gals to tie up their hair. Wrap it around the inner and cut to size. Then if there are remains of an old bumper inside the stocking, a length of 1/2" copper tube with a spur cur into the rim on one end can grab the remains and pull them out. Then slip in the cut piece and it's a lifetime fix.
Find a ring of shock cord used by (mostly) gals to tie up their hair. Wrap it around the inner and cut to size. Then if there are remains of an old bumper inside the stocking, a length of 1/2" copper tube with a spur cur into the rim on one end can grab the remains and pull them out. Then slip in the cut piece and it's a lifetime fix.
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
Baileyman brings up an important point. Do you have the bumpers in your slide? How to tell: you screw the slide lock on all the way and there is still a lot of space between the pawl and the cam. If you got the horn used, someone may have removed the bumpers to allow for a level of vibrato in 1st position.
If you use the felt rings, one on each tube should be plenty. Some repairmen will give you the felts for free if you bring in the horn for some other service. Easy to install: push the felt ring up near the cork barrel and then use the slide to ram the thing in.
For an O-ring you would need one with the ID approximately the diameter of the inner slide (about 9/16" for a 0.500" bore instrument) and using about 1/8" rubber rope.
I'm an older guy who keeps his hair in a ponytail and was the source of Baileyman's cords. The "scrunchee" cords stretch with time and become useless for holding my ponytail and I collected a bunch and gave them to him. I have another bunch for him, but our band hasn't been performing since COVID and I''m now unable to drive there even if they ever start again.
If you use the felt rings, one on each tube should be plenty. Some repairmen will give you the felts for free if you bring in the horn for some other service. Easy to install: push the felt ring up near the cork barrel and then use the slide to ram the thing in.
For an O-ring you would need one with the ID approximately the diameter of the inner slide (about 9/16" for a 0.500" bore instrument) and using about 1/8" rubber rope.
I'm an older guy who keeps his hair in a ponytail and was the source of Baileyman's cords. The "scrunchee" cords stretch with time and become useless for holding my ponytail and I collected a bunch and gave them to him. I have another bunch for him, but our band hasn't been performing since COVID and I''m now unable to drive there even if they ever start again.
- Doubler
- Posts: 435
- Joined: Jan 07, 2019
In my experience using bump stops on brass instrument slides, I find that rubber compromises lacquer and eventually crushes and crumbles, while neoprene lasts indefinitely, but hardens over time, losing its cushioning property. I think felt is best for trombone slides. No contamination, and it takes a very long time to crush and harden.
- brassmedic
- Posts: 1447
- Joined: Dec 14, 2018
I have seen slides where someone put rubber bumpers inside, and I have found that they can get sticky and the slide can adhere to the bumper a little bit, which can be annoying. I like felt bumpers better. I use felts designed for the top caps of piston valves. The large inside opening allows them to fit around trombone slide tubes. And as previously mentioned, it eliminates the problem of rubber hardening over time.
- brassmedic
- Posts: 1447
- Joined: Dec 14, 2018
[quote="uro"]Thanks, for your reply.
Do you use this: <LINK_TEXT text="https://www.hickeys.com/music/brass/tro ... t-of-4.php">https://www.hickeys.com/music/brass/trombone/accessories/bass_trombone_custom_and_replacement_parts/products/sku077497-standardtrombone-slide-bumper-feltsset-of-4.php</LINK_TEXT>
How do you place it? Sorry but I am a newbie![/quote]
You push it on the end of the inner slide stocking and then push it all the way up the slide tube to the cork barrel. Then you can put the outer slide on and carefully push against the bumper to make it slip inside the cork barrel. Of course techs usully have a tool to remove the remnants of old bumpers first.
Do you use this: <LINK_TEXT text="https://www.hickeys.com/music/brass/tro ... t-of-4.php">https://www.hickeys.com/music/brass/trombone/accessories/bass_trombone_custom_and_replacement_parts/products/sku077497-standardtrombone-slide-bumper-feltsset-of-4.php</LINK_TEXT>
How do you place it? Sorry but I am a newbie![/quote]
You push it on the end of the inner slide stocking and then push it all the way up the slide tube to the cork barrel. Then you can put the outer slide on and carefully push against the bumper to make it slip inside the cork barrel. Of course techs usully have a tool to remove the remnants of old bumpers first.
- baileyman
- Posts: 1169
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
[quote="BGuttman"]...
I'm an older guy who keeps his hair in a ponytail and was the source of Baileyman's cords. The "scrunchee" cords stretch with time and become useless for holding my ponytail and I collected a bunch and gave them to him. I have another bunch for him, but our band hasn't been performing since COVID and I''m now unable to drive there even if they ever start again.[/quote]
Now that's what I like. An excuse to go out and buy some more small Bachs!
I'm an older guy who keeps his hair in a ponytail and was the source of Baileyman's cords. The "scrunchee" cords stretch with time and become useless for holding my ponytail and I collected a bunch and gave them to him. I have another bunch for him, but our band hasn't been performing since COVID and I''m now unable to drive there even if they ever start again.[/quote]
Now that's what I like. An excuse to go out and buy some more small Bachs!
- harrisonreed
- Posts: 6479
- Joined: Aug 17, 2018
[quote="uro"]Hi guys,
did anyone place a rubber ring (or something similar) between the inner and outer slide in the receiver to prevent the occasional clangs when you return fast to the first position?
Where do you get it?
thanks
uro[/quote]
There are no in tune notes located on the bumper, with the slide completely closed, except high Ab and maybe F on the F side of the horn. Not unless you really want more notes there. Push your tuning slide in more (until you can't see the raw brass tubes). Whatever bumper you have in there is probably just fine for when you're holding your trombone during rest, or when it's in the case -- the only time the slide needs to be closed.
Bb is probably about 1.5-2 inches out from completely closed.
Another way to look at it could be like this:
Your left pinky and the heel of your hand beneath it is the bumper. When your right thumb knuckle hits that heel, even though the slide could go in more, that is first position and where Bb should be tuned.
did anyone place a rubber ring (or something similar) between the inner and outer slide in the receiver to prevent the occasional clangs when you return fast to the first position?
Where do you get it?
thanks
uro[/quote]
There are no in tune notes located on the bumper, with the slide completely closed, except high Ab and maybe F on the F side of the horn. Not unless you really want more notes there. Push your tuning slide in more (until you can't see the raw brass tubes). Whatever bumper you have in there is probably just fine for when you're holding your trombone during rest, or when it's in the case -- the only time the slide needs to be closed.
Bb is probably about 1.5-2 inches out from completely closed.
Another way to look at it could be like this:
Your left pinky and the heel of your hand beneath it is the bumper. When your right thumb knuckle hits that heel, even though the slide could go in more, that is first position and where Bb should be tuned.
- bigbandbone
- Posts: 602
- Joined: Jan 17, 2019
In my 44 years as a repairman I've seen a lot things used in the cork barrels. IMHO The only thing that I found that doesn't end up grabbing the slide tube is properly fitted collar cork. Just yesterday I replaced the ones in my 2B. They had compressed and were no longer keeping the slide lock lug snugly engaging the slide lock. But, they had lasted many years.
Also felt, rubber O rings, and bungee cord can be very difficult to remove when they start causing problems.
Also felt, rubber O rings, and bungee cord can be very difficult to remove when they start causing problems.
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="bigbandbone"]...
Also felt, rubber O rings, and bungee cord can be very difficult to remove when they start causing problems.[/quote]
Really cork and felt (and even the other things) require the same tool to remove: that piece of tube with the raised bur. Felt comes out pretty easily. The others somewhat less so.
I'll grant you that cork probably has the longest service life.
Also felt, rubber O rings, and bungee cord can be very difficult to remove when they start causing problems.[/quote]
Really cork and felt (and even the other things) require the same tool to remove: that piece of tube with the raised bur. Felt comes out pretty easily. The others somewhat less so.
I'll grant you that cork probably has the longest service life.
- baileyman
- Posts: 1169
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
[quote="BGuttman"]
I'll grant ... that cork probably has the longest service life.[/quote]
Hmmm, wonder if synthetic wine bottle cork could do even better...
I'll grant ... that cork probably has the longest service life.[/quote]
Hmmm, wonder if synthetic wine bottle cork could do even better...
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="baileyman"]<QUOTE author="BGuttman" post_id="148523" time="1621004047" user_id="53">
I'll grant ... that cork probably has the longest service life.[/quote]
Hmmm, wonder if synthetic wine bottle cork could do even better...
</QUOTE>
I like that idea! But they're hard to cut properly. No?
I'll grant ... that cork probably has the longest service life.[/quote]
Hmmm, wonder if synthetic wine bottle cork could do even better...
</QUOTE>
I like that idea! But they're hard to cut properly. No?
- bigbandbone
- Posts: 602
- Joined: Jan 17, 2019
[quote="BGuttman"]<QUOTE author="bigbandbone" post_id="148519" time="1620999048" user_id="4328">
...
Also felt, rubber O rings, and bungee cord can be very difficult to remove when they start causing problems.[/quote]
Really cork and felt (and even the other things) require the same tool to remove: that piece of tube with the raised bur. Felt comes out pretty easily. The others somewhat less so.
I'll grant you that cork probably has the longest service life.
</QUOTE>
I have several tools for removing collar bumpers. It has not been my experience that anything other than cork comes out easily. And I have worked on thousands of slides.
...
Also felt, rubber O rings, and bungee cord can be very difficult to remove when they start causing problems.[/quote]
Really cork and felt (and even the other things) require the same tool to remove: that piece of tube with the raised bur. Felt comes out pretty easily. The others somewhat less so.
I'll grant you that cork probably has the longest service life.
</QUOTE>
I have several tools for removing collar bumpers. It has not been my experience that anything other than cork comes out easily. And I have worked on thousands of slides.
- baileyman
- Posts: 1169
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
This little thing works brilliantly.
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<ATTACHMENT filename="46FD3197-9278-40AE-96F1-AADB1B853E0A.jpeg" index="0">
- brassmedic
- Posts: 1447
- Joined: Dec 14, 2018
[quote="bigbandbone"]<QUOTE author="BGuttman" post_id="148523" time="1621004047" user_id="53">
Really cork and felt (and even the other things) require the same tool to remove: that piece of tube with the raised bur. Felt comes out pretty easily. The others somewhat less so.
I'll grant you that cork probably has the longest service life.[/quote]
I have several tools for removing collar bumpers. It has not been my experience that anything other than cork comes out easily. And I have worked on thousands of slides.
</QUOTE>
If you try to hook the felt with the tool and then yank it out, the tool will often lose its grip. But if you twist the tool while slowly pulling it out, you can kind of nudge the felt along until it's all the way out. I've never had a felt that I couldn't remove with pretty minimal effort.
Really cork and felt (and even the other things) require the same tool to remove: that piece of tube with the raised bur. Felt comes out pretty easily. The others somewhat less so.
I'll grant you that cork probably has the longest service life.[/quote]
I have several tools for removing collar bumpers. It has not been my experience that anything other than cork comes out easily. And I have worked on thousands of slides.
</QUOTE>
If you try to hook the felt with the tool and then yank it out, the tool will often lose its grip. But if you twist the tool while slowly pulling it out, you can kind of nudge the felt along until it's all the way out. I've never had a felt that I couldn't remove with pretty minimal effort.
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
i prefer springs like in old german trombones