Just got my TR180 that I bought on Facebook Marketplace. It's in excellent condition and I got it for a great price! Definitely plays bigger than my 72H.

I understand the main tuning slide and large F tuning slide. But how should I set up the two smaller tuning slides?

The second tuning slide for the F attachment can be ignored while playing (removing it makes cleaning a bit easier). I tend to pull both the main F attachment slide and the smaller one about half the distance I would otherwise pull the F slide for the same total tuning adjustment. Not for any particular reason.

Many (most?) 180 players eventually source a D slide for the second valve. With the original slide you have several options

1) Leave it most of the way in so that you have F/E. B natural will be hanging off the slide stockings, if it's there at all.

2) Pull it maybe halfway for F/bE. Goal is to get low C in slightly raised 6th position. B will be in a slightly long 7th but still securely on the slide.

3) Pull it all the way out, which almost gets you an Eb in first. This is what I did when I first got my 180. B is now a bit above 7th position.

Enjoy! Holton 180s are great.

[quote="spencercarran"]The second tuning slide for the F attachment can be ignored while playing (removing it makes cleaning a bit easier). I tend to pull both the main F attachment slide and the smaller one about half the distance I would otherwise pull the F slide for the same total tuning adjustment. Not for any particular reason.

Many (most?) 180 players eventually source a D slide for the second valve. With the original slide you have several options

1) Leave it most of the way in so that you have F/E. B natural will be hanging off the slide stockings, if it's there at all.

2) Pull it maybe halfway for F/bE. Goal is to get low C in slightly raised 6th position. B will be in a slightly long 7th but still securely on the slide.

3) Pull it all the way out, which almost gets you an Eb in first. This is what I did when I first got my 180. B is now a bit above 7th position.

Enjoy! Holton 180s are great.[/quote]

Thanks for the insights! Now that I've lived with it for a little over 3 weeks I've settled in with how to tune it. I leave the large F slide all the way in. I tune the F valve with the small slide only. Then I tune the bE slide so low B is directly below the B above it with no slide movement. I also find I can play a low C in 7+ On the F side or a short 6 with both valves engaged.

I'm really enjoying this horn. It can be mellow for symphony band and I can make it bark for big band.

Thanks again

Loved mine while I had it. I would still have it if I hadn't found another horn I wanted more. I couldn't justify keeping both.

[quote="Kingfan"]Loved mine while I had it. I would still have it if I hadn't found another horn I wanted more. I couldn't justify keeping both.[/quote]

What horn did you want more?

[quote="bigbandbone"]<QUOTE author="Kingfan" post_id="167749" time="1641679762" user_id="3053">
Loved mine while I had it. I would still have it if I hadn't found another horn I wanted more. I couldn't justify keeping both.[/quote]

What horn did you want more?
</QUOTE>

King Duo Gravis, or a King 7B. I found a 7B first.

I have one too in original setup with the Glanz-bar. I tune the first trigger so it gives an intune f at first position at the bumpers. The C above is then a bit sharp so has to be a off the bumpers. It is good the short second trigger in E still is long enough to enable an Eb at tge bumper since this is a far more useful tuning compared to E. That possibility is why I don't consider to modify that horn. I do have another TR180 with split triggers and the second trigger in D to compare. That one is good too but I would not say it is better because the longer D-slide makes it a lot more heavy and although the split trigger is faster it change the balance a bit. Both this together gives a little more stress on my hand. I have to use a Sherman "Get-a-Grip" to be able to even hold and play it. Anyway the Glaz-bar is as fast as it needs to be for anything I've had to play up to this day. The Holton TR180 has a real good sound.

/Tom

The length of the second valve was intended for Flat E, not E flat, though many pull it out for E flat. Because low B is so sharp on most horns (and arms) when the valve (or valves) is pulled or tuned to E, Flat E tuning adds enough pipe for low B to be in tune. When pushed in it gives a low C with both valves somewhere around 6th, and an in tune low B in flat seventh. I like Kleinhammer's suggestion to pull the slide out a little to give an in tune low B in regular 7th, and this will give a low C in slightly sharp 6th. Low E flat with both valves will be found in flat first.

Most players add a D slide as that's the most common modern tuning, but the horn is very playable with flat E tuning. I'd split the triggers, but that's another story.

Congratulations!!!! Play it in good health!