Axial valv
- dorutzzu92
- Posts: 49
- Joined: Jul 15, 2019
Hello
I bought a getzen 3047 af , but the axial valve seams to hard to press, is harder to press compared with the clasic rotor valve? Much harder? I oiled the valve but seams to hard to press…
I bought a getzen 3047 af , but the axial valve seams to hard to press, is harder to press compared with the clasic rotor valve? Much harder? I oiled the valve but seams to hard to press…
- dorutzzu92
- Posts: 49
- Joined: Jul 15, 2019
I have not cleaned it, it is a new instrument , but it has been in the store for a long time because it was displayed in the store, a demo model, I lubricated it very well and I think it needs to be used to work better
- tbonesullivan
- Posts: 1959
- Joined: Jul 02, 2019
[quote="dorutzzu92"]I have not cleaned it, it is a new instrument , but it has been in the store for a long time because it was displayed in the store, a demo model, I lubricated it very well and I think it needs to be used to work better[/quote] No, I would definitely get it cleaned out, or learn how to do it yourself. There can be dried up stuff in there, and it's a good time to switch to a good lubricant, and not whatever the store was using. Edwards / Getzen has some good videos on lubrication and cleaning.
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- calcbone
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Jun 11, 2018
Aside from what others have said…when my axial valve was still “breaking in,” it would sometimes bind—I had to find just the right amount to tighten the ring on top of it. Once it was broken in nicely, it was much less fussy.
- bassbone1993
- Posts: 435
- Joined: Feb 10, 2023
Don't forget to oil the linkage as well
- JeffBone44
- Posts: 367
- Joined: Oct 24, 2022
Axials need a lot of oil. I oil mine every two to three days minimum and I put in several drops at a time. Even my Shires axial flow valve required a break in period. They would hang up on me during the first month, but then they began to break in and work more reliably.
I reread the thread and it seems like you are oiling them, so that's not the issue. With my new valves my tech opened them to clean them out, and there was actually some leftover residue in them, some kind of composite from the manufacturing process, I assume. When he cleared that the action improved.
I reread the thread and it seems like you are oiling them, so that's not the issue. With my new valves my tech opened them to clean them out, and there was actually some leftover residue in them, some kind of composite from the manufacturing process, I assume. When he cleared that the action improved.
- harrisonreed
- Posts: 6479
- Joined: Aug 17, 2018
I remember just how easy it was to clean the axial valve compared to a rotor. I miss that.
FWIW the ball joints do best with a thick oils, like Hetman ball joint. I stopped using hetmans for everything else, but the ball joint oil is good stuff.
FWIW the ball joints do best with a thick oils, like Hetman ball joint. I stopped using hetmans for everything else, but the ball joint oil is good stuff.
- spencercarran
- Posts: 689
- Joined: Oct 17, 2020
[quote="harrisonreed"]I remember just how easy it was to clean the axial valve compared to a rotor. I miss that.[/quote]
It really is a hassle to get a rotor apart without damaging it. And it's not easy to oil properly without taking apart either, since going through the tuning slide end risks getting grease gunked up in there.
It really is a hassle to get a rotor apart without damaging it. And it's not easy to oil properly without taking apart either, since going through the tuning slide end risks getting grease gunked up in there.
- hornbuilder
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: May 02, 2018
Why do you oil from the tuning slide?
Drop the oil down through the handslide receiver. No need to pull the tuning slide (which also avoids the risk of bending the tubes when pulling the slide, and have it "cock") plus, no chance of tuning slide grease being pulled into the valves.
Drop the oil down through the handslide receiver. No need to pull the tuning slide (which also avoids the risk of bending the tubes when pulling the slide, and have it "cock") plus, no chance of tuning slide grease being pulled into the valves.
- elmsandr
- Posts: 1373
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="hornbuilder"]Why do you oil from the tuning slide?
Drop the oil down through the handslide receiver. No need to pull the tuning slide (which also avoids the risk of bending the tubes when pulling the slide, and have it "cock") plus, no chance of tuning slide grease being pulled into the valves.[/quote]
Well, for an axial valve dropping oil down the handslide receiver will get way more oil into the axial air tube rather than any bearing surface. Drop it down the tuning slide and you can land it on the large bearing surface of the valve.
*tangent, always trim one tuning slide leg shorter so that I won’t “cock” or “dresser drawer” the slide. Get one side started, then the other. 3/8” can make a massive difference in usability here.
Cheers,
Andy
Drop the oil down through the handslide receiver. No need to pull the tuning slide (which also avoids the risk of bending the tubes when pulling the slide, and have it "cock") plus, no chance of tuning slide grease being pulled into the valves.[/quote]
Well, for an axial valve dropping oil down the handslide receiver will get way more oil into the axial air tube rather than any bearing surface. Drop it down the tuning slide and you can land it on the large bearing surface of the valve.
*tangent, always trim one tuning slide leg shorter so that I won’t “cock” or “dresser drawer” the slide. Get one side started, then the other. 3/8” can make a massive difference in usability here.
Cheers,
Andy
- spencercarran
- Posts: 689
- Joined: Oct 17, 2020
[quote="hornbuilder"]Why do you oil from the tuning slide?
Drop the oil down through the handslide receiver. No need to pull the tuning slide (which also avoids the risk of bending the tubes when pulling the slide, and have it "cock") plus, no chance of tuning slide grease being pulled into the valves.[/quote]
What do you do for the second valve on a bass trombone? In either dependent or independent configuration, it tends not to be accessible from the handslide receiver.
Drop the oil down through the handslide receiver. No need to pull the tuning slide (which also avoids the risk of bending the tubes when pulling the slide, and have it "cock") plus, no chance of tuning slide grease being pulled into the valves.[/quote]
What do you do for the second valve on a bass trombone? In either dependent or independent configuration, it tends not to be accessible from the handslide receiver.
- hornbuilder
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: May 02, 2018
When oiling an axial from the handslide receiver, push the lever so the the valve is half activated. That will present a surface for the oil to land on. To oil the second valve, leave the first valve open, and half valve the second valve.
- Mamaposaune
- Posts: 657
- Joined: Sep 22, 2018
What do you do for the second valve on a bass trombone? In either dependent or independent configuration, it tends not to be accessible from the handslide receiver.
This works for independent rotors - remove the main tuning slide, close the Gb rotor and add a few drops of oil, then do the same for the F rotor. Work the valves for a minute or two, then do the same through the slide receiver, except reverse the order.
If you want to avoid mixing the oil with tuning slide grease, just drip it through a straw.
Don't forget some thicker oil on the spindles and springs.
- Bonearzt
- Posts: 833
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="hornbuilder"]When oiling an axial from the handslide receiver, push the lever so the the valve is half activated. That will present a surface for the oil to land on. To oil the second valve, leave the first valve open, and half valve the second valve.[/quote]
EXACTLY!!!
Come on guys and girls!! It's not THAT DIFFICULT!!!!
EXACTLY!!!
Come on guys and girls!! It's not THAT DIFFICULT!!!!
- spencercarran
- Posts: 689
- Joined: Oct 17, 2020
[quote="Bonearzt"]<QUOTE author="hornbuilder" post_id="201844" time="1676080399" user_id="3205">
When oiling an axial from the handslide receiver, push the lever so the the valve is half activated. That will present a surface for the oil to land on. To oil the second valve, leave the first valve open, and half valve the second valve.[/quote]
EXACTLY!!!
Come on guys and girls!! It's not THAT DIFFICULT!!!!
</QUOTE>
It is sometimes difficult
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When oiling an axial from the handslide receiver, push the lever so the the valve is half activated. That will present a surface for the oil to land on. To oil the second valve, leave the first valve open, and half valve the second valve.[/quote]
EXACTLY!!!
Come on guys and girls!! It's not THAT DIFFICULT!!!!
</QUOTE>
It is sometimes difficult
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- StephenK
- Posts: 171
- Joined: Mar 26, 2018
- baileyman
- Posts: 1169
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
Shouldn't those valves operate with a clearance around the perimeter and only bear on the axles?
- tbonesullivan
- Posts: 1959
- Joined: Jul 02, 2019
[quote="baileyman"]Shouldn't those valves operate with a clearance around the perimeter and only bear on the axles?[/quote] It should be, but the TO described it as a demo model that was on display in the store, so who knows what kind of oil and stuff has gotten gummed up in it over time. Also some axials can get the tweaked rather easily. I'm not sure where they bought it from, as usually a horn would be prepped before being sold.