Ball joint linkage ends
- Bassbonechandler
- Posts: 211
- Joined: Jul 07, 2018
Does anyone know where I can get replacement linkage ends for a getzen/edwards? The Edwards ones are $12 a piece and I'd like to not spend almost $50 for just linkage ends.
- Bassbonechandler
- Posts: 211
- Joined: Jul 07, 2018
[quote="Bonearzt"]Check a model airplane hobby shop.
Also:
Dubro.com
Eric[/quote]
Do you know which size would be compatible with my getzen?
Also:
Dubro.com
Eric[/quote]
Do you know which size would be compatible with my getzen?
- Bonearzt
- Posts: 833
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
- paulyg
- Posts: 689
- Joined: May 17, 2018
I would spring for the metal rod ends (no pun intended). A good vs. mediocre linkage can make the whole instrument feel cheap. The teflon linkages in my experience have way too much slop and clank quite a bit.
Think of it this way: if you're outfitting a bass trombone with them, the instrument itself cost probably in the neighborhood of $5,000. The metal rods add 1/100th to the cost of the instrument. Yet, they are responsible for the response and feel of the valve actuation.
Think of it this way: if you're outfitting a bass trombone with them, the instrument itself cost probably in the neighborhood of $5,000. The metal rods add 1/100th to the cost of the instrument. Yet, they are responsible for the response and feel of the valve actuation.
- Bonearzt
- Posts: 833
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="paulyg"]I would spring for the metal rod ends (no pun intended). A good vs. mediocre linkage can make the whole instrument feel cheap. The teflon linkages in my experience have way too much slop and clank quite a bit.
Think of it this way: if you're outfitting a bass trombone with them, the instrument itself cost probably in the neighborhood of $5,000. The metal rods add 1/100th to the cost of the instrument. Yet, they are responsible for the response and feel of the valve actuation.[/quote]
True, but My experience is that the metal ball ends tend to wear just as quickly and are noisier as a result unless oiled regularly!
Think of it this way: if you're outfitting a bass trombone with them, the instrument itself cost probably in the neighborhood of $5,000. The metal rods add 1/100th to the cost of the instrument. Yet, they are responsible for the response and feel of the valve actuation.[/quote]
True, but My experience is that the metal ball ends tend to wear just as quickly and are noisier as a result unless oiled regularly!
- Jgittleson
- Posts: 255
- Joined: Jun 13, 2018
[quote="Bonearzt"]<QUOTE author="paulyg" post_id="71827" time="1543256441" user_id="3299">
I would spring for the metal rod ends (no pun intended). A good vs. mediocre linkage can make the whole instrument feel cheap. The teflon linkages in my experience have way too much slop and clank quite a bit.
Think of it this way: if you're outfitting a bass trombone with them, the instrument itself cost probably in the neighborhood of $5,000. The metal rods add 1/100th to the cost of the instrument. Yet, they are responsible for the response and feel of the valve actuation.[/quote]
True, but My experience is that the metal ball ends tend to wear just as quickly and are noisier as a result unless oiled regularly!
</QUOTE>
I unfortunately have to agree. While i also like the idea of metal, and it's all i use, i have to recognize over time they tend to be the inferior choice. That being said I'm still using them :lol:
I would spring for the metal rod ends (no pun intended). A good vs. mediocre linkage can make the whole instrument feel cheap. The teflon linkages in my experience have way too much slop and clank quite a bit.
Think of it this way: if you're outfitting a bass trombone with them, the instrument itself cost probably in the neighborhood of $5,000. The metal rods add 1/100th to the cost of the instrument. Yet, they are responsible for the response and feel of the valve actuation.[/quote]
True, but My experience is that the metal ball ends tend to wear just as quickly and are noisier as a result unless oiled regularly!
</QUOTE>
I unfortunately have to agree. While i also like the idea of metal, and it's all i use, i have to recognize over time they tend to be the inferior choice. That being said I'm still using them :lol:
- hornbuilder
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: May 02, 2018
Brand of ball joints makes a difference here. If you use either the real MINIBAL from Martin Seybold, or the version made by Yamaha, then wear will not be a problem. Most other versions are not as well made, and will wear. I've been using authentic MINIBAL joints for many, many years, with no signs of wear at all.
Keep in mind that the valve levers the OP is talking about have screw in ball joint. So the DuBro sockets will need to have screw in balls machined to suit. DuBro do not have balls with the correct thread to suit the application. I have also used the DuBro sockets on my early Thayer valves. They wear "very" quickly, and I found them to be far from ideal.
FWIW
M
Keep in mind that the valve levers the OP is talking about have screw in ball joint. So the DuBro sockets will need to have screw in balls machined to suit. DuBro do not have balls with the correct thread to suit the application. I have also used the DuBro sockets on my early Thayer valves. They wear "very" quickly, and I found them to be far from ideal.
FWIW
M
- Bassbonechandler
- Posts: 211
- Joined: Jul 07, 2018
[quote="hornbuilder"]Brand of ball joints makes a difference here. If you use either the real MINIBAL from Martin Seybold, or the version made by Yamaha, then wear will not be a problem. Most other versions are not as well made, and will wear. I've been using authentic MINIBAL joints for many, many years, with no signs of wear at all.
Keep in mind that the valve levers the OP is talking about have screw in ball joint. So the DuBro sockets will need to have screw in balls machined to suit. DuBro do not have balls with the correct thread to suit the application. I have also used the DuBro sockets on my early Thayer valves. They wear "very" quickly, and I found them to be far from ideal.
FWIW
M[/quote]
What linkage do you use on the m&w horns you build? Do you know if Edwards metal linkage is high enough quality to last awhile?
Keep in mind that the valve levers the OP is talking about have screw in ball joint. So the DuBro sockets will need to have screw in balls machined to suit. DuBro do not have balls with the correct thread to suit the application. I have also used the DuBro sockets on my early Thayer valves. They wear "very" quickly, and I found them to be far from ideal.
FWIW
M[/quote]
What linkage do you use on the m&w horns you build? Do you know if Edwards metal linkage is high enough quality to last awhile?
- hornbuilder
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: May 02, 2018
We use genuine MINIBAL ball joints.
M
M
- Bassbonechandler
- Posts: 211
- Joined: Jul 07, 2018
[quote="hornbuilder"]We use genuine MINIBAL ball joints.
M[/quote]
Is it even possible for me to get those?
M[/quote]
Is it even possible for me to get those?
- Bonearzt
- Posts: 833
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="Bassbonechandler"]<QUOTE author="hornbuilder" post_id="71919" time="1543360411" user_id="3205">
We use genuine MINIBAL ball joints.
M[/quote]
Is it even possible for me to get those?
</QUOTE>
I used to have a direct link to the maker of the Minibal, but they are available through Woodwind & Brasswind, or Hickeys, or maybe the guys at M&W will sell you some if you bribe them with something delicious....8P
They aren't cheap!!
Eric
We use genuine MINIBAL ball joints.
M[/quote]
Is it even possible for me to get those?
</QUOTE>
I used to have a direct link to the maker of the Minibal, but they are available through Woodwind & Brasswind, or Hickeys, or maybe the guys at M&W will sell you some if you bribe them with something delicious....8P
They aren't cheap!!
Eric