I bought a ‘55 6H recently. I had the handslide swapped out for one from a Jiggs 2B. I also had the nickel outer sleeves removed and the very worn upper inner slide replaced. My tech wasn’t able to get the stock leadpipe out.

I asked to retain it, I’m hoping to be able to get it free. In the meantime I’m using a Kanstul S leadpipe which seems to be very close in spec and response.

Thanks Bill Hamilton for hooking me up with the Jiggs brace! Those early 6H handbrace are clunky.

[quote="gregwaits"]I asked to retain it, I’m hoping to be able to get it free.[/quote]

I would hit it with PB Blaster (the original PB-DS Penetrating Catalyst) a couple of times a day for at least a week. Either stand it vertically and flip it for each blast so the fluid will migrate down, or (if you can) immerse it in the fluid. But the repeated spraying should work -- if anything will. I have yet to find anything from brass instruments to heavy farm machinery that PB Blaster hasn't been able to free up. If not, then there's always the torch to try on the outside of the tube while you're trying to tap the pipe out.

[quote="ghmerrill"]<QUOTE author="gregwaits" post_id="230876" time="1705161519" user_id="58">
I asked to retain it, I’m hoping to be able to get it free.[/quote]

I would hit it with PB Blaster (the original PB-DS Penetrating Catalyst) a couple of times a day for at least a week. Either stand it vertically and flip it for each blast so the fluid will migrate down, or (if you can) immerse it in the fluid. But the repeated spraying should work -- if anything will. I have yet to find anything from brass instruments to heavy farm machinery that PB Blaster hasn't been able to free up. If not, then there's always the torch to try on the outside of the tube while you're trying to tap the pipe out.
</QUOTE>

Thanks <EMOJI seq="1f44d" tseq="1f44d">👍</EMOJI>

There are other tricks you can use, but they get progressively more "intrusive". One is to solder an old mouthpiece (or something similar) into the leadpipe so you can use it as a "handle" to apply rotational force after you've used penetrating solution on it (or when applying heat to the outside of the tube. Then when you get it out, you desolder it and clean it up.

Some of the genuine techs on this forum may have better ideas for a DIY approach.

But I'm assuming you're pursuing this just "in the interests of science" and would like to get it out but it won't be a tragedy if you can't. Are both those leadpipes soldered in? Not quite clear on what your plan is.

So you have a spare, heavily worn upper inner tube, from which your tech has already tried and failed to remove the leadpipe?

In that case, you know two things: the tube itself isn't worth saving, and it's possible that some solder has been overheated, adding to the existing adhesion/corrosion issues.

At your own risk, and realizing that luck and time aren't on your side...

I'd cut the tube off about an inch beyond the end of the leadpipe, then transition a lengthwise snip into a spiral and carefully peel it open. 6H leadpipe is 7.5", though check yours before any cutting. By all means soak the whole thing in a graduated cylinder/stopped pipe of penetrating oil before the peeling stage. You'd be amazed how tearable inner tube wall is once you get going... go very slow... you don't know where the leadpipe is and isn't stuck. If you're lucky this will get you most of the way and then you'll just need heat at the end for the soldered portion.

[quote="ithinknot"]So you have a spare, heavily worn upper inner tube, from which your tech has already tried and failed to remove the leadpipe?

In that case, you know two things: the tube itself isn't worth saving, and it's possible that some solder has been overheated, adding to the existing adhesion/corrosion issues.

At your own risk, and realizing that luck and time aren't on your side...

I'd cut the tube off about an inch beyond the end of the leadpipe, then transition a lengthwise snip into a spiral and carefully peel it open. 6H leadpipe is 7.5", though check yours before any cutting. By all means soak the whole thing in a graduated cylinder/stopped pipe of penetrating oil before the peeling stage. You'd be amazed how tearable inner tube wall is once you get going... go very slow... you don't know where the leadpipe is and isn't stuck. If you're lucky this will get you most of the way and then you'll just need heat at the end for the soldered portion.[/quote]

Thanks. I suspect that is where it is heading. I plugged up the top end of the tube and squirted a lot of penetrating oil inside. It’s now resting upside down in my shop.