Worth the repair?

mcphatty00 · by **mcphatty00** » 2024-03-31 12:56 p.m.

Don't ask how it happened. Just asking what it would take. If it can be done. Is it worth it?

It's an early 2000's Shires.

Burgerbob · by **Burgerbob** » 2024-03-31 1:21 p.m.

I'd say a new valve would be in order... Lots of work and time in any case.

hornbuilder · by **hornbuilder** » 2024-03-31 2:31 p.m.

Yes, it can be repaired, but, you will need a tech that really knows how to work with axial valves. I would suggest a new casing and rotor. Less time, for a better result.

tbonesullivan · by **tbonesullivan** » 2024-03-31 7:01 p.m.

Is there any damage to the core? Also, do I see some cracks on the casing, or is that just a reflection?

If it's just the "knuckle" I could see it being repaired, but I think that may be a brazed joint? What does it look like on the inside? Really a lot of variables at play that would be hard to know about until it's measured and test fit.

mcphatty00 · by **mcphatty00** » 2024-03-31 7:18 p.m.

I think it is just the knuckle. The valve works just like it always has.

[quote="tbonesullivan"]Is there any damage to the core? Also, do I see some cracks on the casing, or is that just a reflection?

If it's just the "knuckle" I could see it being repaired, but I think that may be a brazed joint? What does it look like on the inside? Really a lot of variables at play that would be hard to know about until it's measured and test fit.[/quote]

tbonesullivan · by **tbonesullivan** » 2024-03-31 8:27 p.m.

[quote="mcphatty00"]I think it is just the knuckle. The valve works just like it always has.[/quote] If it still working fine, that is usually a good sign. What you need to find is a tech who is really good with axials, in case something goes sideways when trying to repair the knuckle.

hornbuilder · by **hornbuilder** » 2024-03-31 8:47 p.m.

Note that there is more to this than just the knuckle. The entire F loop has been pushed out of position. There will be bent/buckled tubes in other places..

mcphatty00 · by **mcphatty00** » 2024-04-01 2:11 p.m.

The solder joints at the braces broke when this occurred. The only damaged tube is the short out exiting the valve.

hornbuilder · by **hornbuilder** » 2024-04-01 8:36 p.m.

I am a repairer, and manufacturer, and have dealt with damage like this before. There is more to deal with than you think, if you want it done properly.

tbonesullivan · by **tbonesullivan** » 2024-04-01 9:04 p.m.

[quote="mcphatty00"]The solder joints at the braces broke when this occurred. The only damaged tube is the short out exiting the valve.[/quote] Ahh.. that would be the only tube that "looks" damaged. If it was enough to break the solder joints, there's a definite possibility of other tubes being slightly bent. The only way to find out is to get it to an expert and go from there. They should be able to tell you when evaluating the condition what the best route to go is.

Also, with that kind of a dent it's always possible that other things were knocked out of alignment.

OneTon · by **OneTon** » 2024-04-01 10:56 p.m.

Yes it can be repaired. How that plays after it is repaired is a real crap shot. Not replacing the valve and the most severely affected adjacent tubing will decrease the likelihood that this horn will deliver to professional expectations. Salvaging the bell and replacing the complete valve section might deliver better results with less risk. I had a Duo-Gravis repaired and a Bach LT6 repaired. The LT6 was a success. The Duo-Gravies is playable but not a resounding success.

mcphatty00 · by **mcphatty00** » 2025-12-29 7:17 p.m.

So, I took the horn to Tim Adelson in Vegas. He said he thought there was pressure on the inner valve which is what I thought I felt. I ordered an Instrument Innovations AF valve. I even tried a Stephens with a rotary valve just to make sure before my purchase. I definitely still love an AF. As soon as Tim does the switch, I'll post photos and let you know how it feels.

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Worth the repair?