Looking to get a Holton tr180, for around 1000-1200, doesn't have to be pretty out anything, just need it to work!

[quote="hyperbolica"]https://www.trombonechat.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=8312[/quote]
already emailed him, it's a little too far out of my price range, awesome horn though!

Not sure you're going to find a TR180 in that price range. In decent shape, they usually sell in the $1400-1800 price range. You might find a TR181 in that price range if you're really lucky... but they also usually go for similar prices.

I bought a stock one a number of years ago for $1000ish but I probably put $400-$600 of work into it to make it playable. A stock TR180 is no fun. You'll need to get the triggers split, D slide built if it doesn't already have one and possibly have the leadpipe pulled if your horn has a garbage pipe.

If you're on a budget see if you can snap up a Benge 290. They usually sell for about the price you're looking to spend.

Mr. Deacon, if somebody wants a TR180 specifically, there might be good reasons. Why try and talk Chet out of it? What kind of playing does Chet do? At what level? Did Chet have one in the past and want another one? I have a stock TR180 and find it a LOT of fun. I never "needed" to get the triggers split, replace the leadpipe, etc. I would sell mine in his price range, but that would leave me with no bass, unless I find a Duo Gravis or 7B for the same money...

[quote="Kingfan"]Mr. Deacon, if somebody wants a TR180 specifically, there might be good reasons. Why try and talk Chet out of it? What kind of playing does Chet do? At what level? Did Chet have one in the past and want another one? I have a stock TR180 and find it a LOT of fun. I never "needed" to get the triggers split, replace the leadpipe, etc. I would sell mine in his price range, but that would leave me with no bass, unless I find a Duo Gravis or 7B for the same money...[/quote]
Maybe I could have worded the post a bit differently... but I still stand by what I said. I would, in fact, try and talk most people out of buying a stock TR180, a modded TR180 is another story though! One of the best horns I've ever played is a friend's modded TR180!!

The Glantz trigger (whammy bar) is borderline unusable for the majority of people. The stock E tuning slide is again not practical for most players and the stock E tuning slide doesn't even pull to Eb, you get a really sharp bE when you pull it all the way out. If the horn instead includes a stock D slide this point is moot though. The TR180 I had also had a really bad leadpipe that when I had pulled completly changed the horn for the better. Again though... that last point is moot if you have a horn with a good leadpipe.

Still, even if everything else is good on the horn, a minimum of maybe $150-$300 in work needs to be done to a horn to replace the triggers if it has the Glantz bar.

If OP can find a TR180 in their price range they should jump on it because that means it's underpriced!!!

No argument that the Glantz trigger is a bad design, but for players like me who don't need to use the second valve it is a moot point. The looks of my pawn shop TR180 are nothing to brag about, but it plays and sounds great.

A good TR180 is one of the best horns you can get. The TR181 doesn’t come close, and a Benge is a different animal. If you have to put $300 into a horn you’re going to use for the rest of your life, you’re getting a good deal. There isn’t really a price on something like that.

I don't mind the Glantz bar actually, one of .y buddies has a stock 180 and I've played it a bit and it's odd but not too bad. I really just need it for more clarity in the trigger range below f and to get my low C's and B's in tune. I don't want a looker, I like the old kinda beat up look, and whatever I can get for that price is perfect for me!

[quote="Kingfan"]No argument that the Glantz trigger is a bad design, but for players like me who don't need to use the second valve it is a moot point. The looks of my pawn shop TR180 are nothing to brag about, but it plays and sounds great.[/quote]
Actually the Glanz-bar isn't that bad. I have two Holton TR180. One is original with the Ganz-bar and second valve in E. The other is split triggers and second valve in D. The Glanz-bar is easy to hold and operate and the E valve has enough room to pull to Eb, which is how I use it. My modernized TR180 is heavy with the D-slide and the split triggers makes it a bit unbalanced to hold. I use the "Get-A-Grip" tool from "Sheridan" to make it possible to play.

/Tom