Wondering if anyone has replaced the 2nd valve trigger spring with one less resistant than the stock one? I'm kinda digging this horn, but it seems like the playing experience would be improved if the 2nd valve trigger were a little less difficult to depress. I'm assuming such a thing exists but I'm not sure what to look for if I were to try to find the part on line somewhere. Any info would be appreciated.

I'm not aware any weaker springs being available that were specifically designed for that instrument. What I would do is take the spring off, then hold each of the "legs" with needle nose pliers, right at the spot where the legs straighten out, then bend the leg a little bit in the direction that it's coiled (towards the inside). That will reduce how much force it generates. But be aware that it's pretty easy to mess up the valve action with the wrong spring tension.

[quote="brassmedic"]I'm not aware any weaker springs being available that were specifically designed for that instrument. What I would do is take the spring off, then hold each of the "legs" with needle nose pliers, right at the spot where the legs straighten out, then bend the leg a little bit in the direction that it's coiled (towards the inside). That will reduce how much force it generates. But be aware that it's pretty easy to mess up the valve action with the wrong spring tension.[/quote]

Thanks for the info and the caveat Brad. Doesn't sound like something I would want to attempt myself without a replacement on hand, and probably best that I see if my repair guy can play with it. Just a very small adjustment might make a big difference in the feel for me.

[quote="Chazzer69"]<QUOTE author="brassmedic" post_id="261157" time="1733977011" user_id="4102">
I'm not aware any weaker springs being available that were specifically designed for that instrument. What I would do is take the spring off, then hold each of the "legs" with needle nose pliers, right at the spot where the legs straighten out, then bend the leg a little bit in the direction that it's coiled (towards the inside). That will reduce how much force it generates. But be aware that it's pretty easy to mess up the valve action with the wrong spring tension.[/quote]

Thanks for the info and the caveat Brad. Doesn't sound like something I would want to attempt myself without a replacement on hand, and probably best that I see if my repair guy can play with it. Just a very small adjustment might make a big difference in the feel for me.
</QUOTE>

Your repair person might even have a lighter spring that would fit. I just don't think it's something you could buy yourself, because you wouldn't know which kind to get.

Your repair person might even be able to wind you a spring.

Be sure to test the return REALLY carefully if you change it.

McCracken was being pretty careful about the RETURN action when he specified that spring.

Too much tension just made the thumb sore.

Too little let that big heavy rotor bounce on the return.

Too much bounce could make something like double trigger C to single trigger D unstable on the D.

You'll likely feel the problem before anyone can hear it.

It is quite unsettling when it happens.

You'd think something is wrong with your chops, or slide position.

It's be the bounce.