I have been dealing with a grip issue as I have gotten into my senior-years. On my Greenhoe-Bach 50B, I have used a Greenhoe hook for many years and it works great. I also own two Conn Bass Trombones, with one being an Elkhart 62H and the other is a 62H Gen. 2. After I started back playing again after a year COVID lay-off, I started to play, once again, on the Elkhart 62H as, it was lighter than my Greenhoe-Bach.

A friend of my recommended getting a Neotec Grip, which I did. I found I had a lot of difficulty getting the bell nut tight enough; as, the slide angle wanted to make a big change, as I was playing. Now, add a bass trombone cup or EZ Bucket, and it was impossible to play more than a couple of measures, then the bell starts unlocking from the slide. That made me get back to the Greenhoe-Bach rather quickly, as it never happened on that bass trombone.

When Wittenberg University closed down our Music Department and let the staff get a first shot at the instruments it owned, I got a good deal on their dependent, Conn 62H Gen.2. I found it super difficult to hold this one, without a grip; so, I bought a couple parts and pieces and put another Neotech on the new Conn. It has the same problem as my Elkhart 62H. With the Neotech on it, this one opens up as you play it. Most of the time it does it without a mute. Put a mute in it, and you can barely play two measures before it happens.

Anybody know if the Neotech grip is causing the problem. I seem to have the bell nut pretty tight. I have also cleaned the tenon on the slide and the interior of the bell receiver with rubbing alcohol. Still have the problem.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. This Conn 62H Gen.2 is a great playing bass trombone!

Thanks.

I personally prefer other grip aids on bass. The neotech pushes your hand very far away from the slide brace and the 2nd valve paddle.

It may be worth trying other ones, like calders pips grip, leather specialties strap, axe handle, etc.

I've tried several of the "strap" grips, and they just don't work for me. What does work is either an Axe Handle or Bullet Brace -- but in my experience on two different horns, it can take some time (I mean on the order of weeks or more -- over time) to get it adjusted optimally, and may benefit substantially from using a counterweight as well. For a perfectly comfortable and balanced fit, it may require adjustment or modification of the second trigger.

Bass cup mutes are just a terrible pain. The only ones I've tried and seem able to tolerate are the Morningstar and the Wick (both two-piece "adjustable"). The Morningstar has a wonderful sound and is almost as light and balanced as the Wick, but the Wick is a bit lighter (at least compared to my Morningstar, which has a fiber end). A counterweight seems critical for me in the context of a cup mute.

One trick I've used in terms of the tenon (though I don't need it on the Getzen), is to put a -- thin -- O-ring over the tenon so that when the nut tightens down on it, the added friction with the O-ring inhibits rotation.

Aidan and Gary, thank you for some great ideas. Aidan, I was wondering if you have actually used the Calerspip grip? That one looks very interesting.

Gary, I will head to the hardware store or Rural King and grab some o-rings and give that a try.

Thanks for helping out!

I used the Sheridan Brass Get-A-Grip that the calders is based on for a long time. On certain horns they are perfect, I personally prefer the straps at the moment since they work on everything.

Aidan, thanks so much for your input, as I really appreciate your suggestions. Like I stated, on my Greenhoe-Bach 50, I used a soldered-on Greenhoe brace or hook, whatever it was called. Never had issues even with a lot of bucket mute playing, both H&B in the early days, before the EZ bucket and the Ira Nepus softone cloth mute were available.

Yes, a built in support is nice. My b&s has something similar that I leave on that horn.