Swapped my lead pipe. I don't like the sound. Now what?
- tbdana
- Posts: 1928
- Joined: Apr 08, 2023
I have a Bach LT16MG. I swapped out the stock lead pipe for a custom lead pipe made by Shires as a copy of the Kanstul H8.
I find that notes slot better now. But the tone is different. Some would say it's "more focused" now. But I find it brighter and lacking warmth, especially when you lean on the horn. For what I play, warmth is important to me.
Should I try to get back closer to the original sound with a mouthpiece? Perhaps one with a more open throat, to get a little warmth back? Or what?
I find that notes slot better now. But the tone is different. Some would say it's "more focused" now. But I find it brighter and lacking warmth, especially when you lean on the horn. For what I play, warmth is important to me.
Should I try to get back closer to the original sound with a mouthpiece? Perhaps one with a more open throat, to get a little warmth back? Or what?
- ngrinder
- Posts: 294
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
It's all what's more important to you. I think of every equipment swap as a trade off.
Are you in a work situation where a more focused, brighter sound is what is called for? If you're playing just for you, I'd try to zero in on an sound and setup that you are comfortable with.
Another idea, if you have the time and the money, is to ask Shires, O'Malley, or Brad Close to make you a custom leadpipe based on an H8 but with a bit more warmth. I've found that shorter leadpipes usually are a bit "warmer" and have closer slots, while generally lacking in clarity and focused slotting. I'm not an instrument maker, so I could be completely off the mark, but maybe you can do some experimenting with someone changing only one variable and see where it takes you. That would also benefit the community if you come up with a design that works well.
Are you in a work situation where a more focused, brighter sound is what is called for? If you're playing just for you, I'd try to zero in on an sound and setup that you are comfortable with.
Another idea, if you have the time and the money, is to ask Shires, O'Malley, or Brad Close to make you a custom leadpipe based on an H8 but with a bit more warmth. I've found that shorter leadpipes usually are a bit "warmer" and have closer slots, while generally lacking in clarity and focused slotting. I'm not an instrument maker, so I could be completely off the mark, but maybe you can do some experimenting with someone changing only one variable and see where it takes you. That would also benefit the community if you come up with a design that works well.
- Matt_K
- Posts: 4809
- Joined: Mar 21, 2018
What leadpipe did you use? I wasn't aware Shires made an H8 copy. In any case, Shires "2" are typically very safe pipes to start with. I have yet to put a Shires 2 in something and have it play poorly. It might not be the best choice for everything, but some pipes are virtually unplayable in some horns for me.
The reason that most boutique horns come stock with something like a "1", "2", and "3" is that it lets you A/B test them and see which direction works better. It's not unusual to think "I need something more open," for example, only to actually discover the "1" - which is typically more "centered" than "open" actually works better on a particular horn, for example.
There are a couple of strategies I take when trying to balance this, but for the most part, I try to make it so the leadpipe complements whatever the mouthpiece I'm playing is, and I try to play the smallest mouthpiece I can get away with for the horn. So personally, in your shoes, I'd keep experimenting with leadpipes unless you are playing on something a touch larger than you might typically expect (e.g. a 5GS or something with an already large throat, etc.. on your 16).
If you want a combination of warmth, but something that still has color and slotting... a copper 32H replica can be made in your bore size and also is a pretty safe choice. It's among my top 3 choices for the 500 & 508 bore sizes.
King 3B, albeit two-piece, so your tech will have to do some assembly, may also be a good option to try. And a 354 can be ordered cheaply and fitted to .509 by a tech who is familiar with flaring out the end. Actually, a 354 might be a good choice for you now that I think about it. IIRC it's a pretty short pipe and has a fairly balanced taper. Gives a good combination of slotting and warmth. Perhaps a little too much slotting, which is why I don't have one, but it was definitely a top 10 pipe for me if not a little higher up the list on several .500 slides I've had.
The reason that most boutique horns come stock with something like a "1", "2", and "3" is that it lets you A/B test them and see which direction works better. It's not unusual to think "I need something more open," for example, only to actually discover the "1" - which is typically more "centered" than "open" actually works better on a particular horn, for example.
There are a couple of strategies I take when trying to balance this, but for the most part, I try to make it so the leadpipe complements whatever the mouthpiece I'm playing is, and I try to play the smallest mouthpiece I can get away with for the horn. So personally, in your shoes, I'd keep experimenting with leadpipes unless you are playing on something a touch larger than you might typically expect (e.g. a 5GS or something with an already large throat, etc.. on your 16).
If you want a combination of warmth, but something that still has color and slotting... a copper 32H replica can be made in your bore size and also is a pretty safe choice. It's among my top 3 choices for the 500 & 508 bore sizes.
King 3B, albeit two-piece, so your tech will have to do some assembly, may also be a good option to try. And a 354 can be ordered cheaply and fitted to .509 by a tech who is familiar with flaring out the end. Actually, a 354 might be a good choice for you now that I think about it. IIRC it's a pretty short pipe and has a fairly balanced taper. Gives a good combination of slotting and warmth. Perhaps a little too much slotting, which is why I don't have one, but it was definitely a top 10 pipe for me if not a little higher up the list on several .500 slides I've had.
- baBposaune
- Posts: 391
- Joined: Jan 21, 2019
I would order a Brad Close H8 (Herrick copy) and if that doesn't suit you then get a stock Bach with a pull ring, same taper as the one you removed. Unless...there was something inherently annoying about the stock pipe?
Matt
Matt
- dukesboneman
- Posts: 935
- Joined: Apr 02, 2018
Just a thought...
As someone that has done quite a bit of leadpipe switching, How long have you had the new pipe?
Sometimes the new one will feel/sound a little different, but give it some time and usually you`ll sound like you again but with a better slotting horn.
Anytime something is changed, mouthpiece, leadpipe or the entire horn, it`s just takes a while for you to adjust.
Jusst my opinion from years of buying Horns, mouthpieces & Leadpipes.
As someone that has done quite a bit of leadpipe switching, How long have you had the new pipe?
Sometimes the new one will feel/sound a little different, but give it some time and usually you`ll sound like you again but with a better slotting horn.
Anytime something is changed, mouthpiece, leadpipe or the entire horn, it`s just takes a while for you to adjust.
Jusst my opinion from years of buying Horns, mouthpieces & Leadpipes.
- GabrielRice
- Posts: 1496
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I don't spend a lot of time trying to get used to something that "should" be better. Especially with leadpipes and mouthpieces, if I don't like the sound and/or the feel right away it's a no.
Or at least that's what I tell myself...the reality is not quite so cut-and-dried.
And then there is always a period of adjustment, after which I often go back to the whatever was working before.
Or at least that's what I tell myself...the reality is not quite so cut-and-dried.
And then there is always a period of adjustment, after which I often go back to the whatever was working before.
- tbdana
- Posts: 1928
- Joined: Apr 08, 2023
Thanks, everyone, for some meaty advice. I wish the forum had the ability to "like" posts so I could acknowledge all these good posts without quoting each one.
I'm not one to experiment with equipment much, so my first instinct is what Gabe's last sentence:
:D :D :D :D
But I'll try some of the advice here and see what happens. Oh lord don't let me fall down that rabbit hole!
I'm not one to experiment with equipment much, so my first instinct is what Gabe's last sentence:
And then there is always a period of adjustment, after which I often go back to the whatever was working before.
:D :D :D :D
But I'll try some of the advice here and see what happens. Oh lord don't let me fall down that rabbit hole!