.525” lead pipes…into Conn SL2525
- Soulbrass
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mar 08, 2023
I’ve read some general discussion here on various lead pipes into .525” slides. My question is specific:
Can anyone comment on relative playing characteristics of a Conn T (small shank) lead pipe vs any other available .525” lead pipe (e.g., Conn H, any Shires offering, BrassArk offering, any M/K Drawing offering, etc.) into a Conn SL2525 slide? When I bought the slide, it only came with the Conn T…that’s all I know.
Based on some experimentation with my .547” slide, I’m convinced some lead pipes work better than others [for me]. I’m just trying to gather any impressions that might help guide me before I buy something other than the Conn T.
I realize that lead pipe vs receiver threads might require some adaptation.
Please share specifics of other equipment used to arrive at your impression (e.g., bell, mouthpiece, shank, specific metals, etc.)
Thanks in advance for any and all insight shared!
Can anyone comment on relative playing characteristics of a Conn T (small shank) lead pipe vs any other available .525” lead pipe (e.g., Conn H, any Shires offering, BrassArk offering, any M/K Drawing offering, etc.) into a Conn SL2525 slide? When I bought the slide, it only came with the Conn T…that’s all I know.
Based on some experimentation with my .547” slide, I’m convinced some lead pipes work better than others [for me]. I’m just trying to gather any impressions that might help guide me before I buy something other than the Conn T.
I realize that lead pipe vs receiver threads might require some adaptation.
Please share specifics of other equipment used to arrive at your impression (e.g., bell, mouthpiece, shank, specific metals, etc.)
Thanks in advance for any and all insight shared!
- hyperbolica
- Posts: 3990
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I've been playing a sl2525 for maybe 20 years. The T was the one I picked when I first got it, and I haven't changed. I don't remember how it compared against the other two pipes, other than the X was a large shank pipe, and it felt enough like a 547 that I didn't want it in my 525 slide.
The Conn leadpipes are relatively cheap and reasonably good. Some of the $200+ pipes might be better, if you do try something and it turns out to be a big improvement, please say something.
The Conn leadpipes are relatively cheap and reasonably good. Some of the $200+ pipes might be better, if you do try something and it turns out to be a big improvement, please say something.
- Soulbrass
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mar 08, 2023
[quote="hyperbolica"]…if you do try something and it turns out to be a big improvement, please say something.[/quote]
I’ll gladly share any personal insights down the road.
I’ll gladly share any personal insights down the road.
- RichC
- Posts: 177
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I picked up a used 2525 slide a number of months ago. It came with the X pipe and the T pipe, so I haven’t been able to try the H pipe. (I did try to order a H but it doesn’t seem to be available).
Have to say I was disappointed with the slide with the T pipe and wasn’t really interested in the X. For me, the T seemed stuffy or tight.
I recently remembered that I had a tenor pipe from quite a while ago and took a look. It was a Brad Close MV36. That pipe is a game changer - for me - much more open and I’m now enjoying the slide. Of course, every one is different so YRMV.
Have to say I was disappointed with the slide with the T pipe and wasn’t really interested in the X. For me, the T seemed stuffy or tight.
I recently remembered that I had a tenor pipe from quite a while ago and took a look. It was a Brad Close MV36. That pipe is a game changer - for me - much more open and I’m now enjoying the slide. Of course, every one is different so YRMV.
- Soulbrass
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mar 08, 2023
[quote="RichC"]
I recently remembered that I had a tenor pipe from quite a while ago and took a look. It was a Brad Close MV36. That pipe is a game changer - for me - much more open and I’m now enjoying the slide. Of course, every one is different so YRMV.[/quote]
Does your MV36 have Conn threads…or did you change the receiver on your horn to accept a different thread style?
Is it yellow brass or something else?
I hear from many sources that the MV36 is definitely one to try!
I recently remembered that I had a tenor pipe from quite a while ago and took a look. It was a Brad Close MV36. That pipe is a game changer - for me - much more open and I’m now enjoying the slide. Of course, every one is different so YRMV.[/quote]
Does your MV36 have Conn threads…or did you change the receiver on your horn to accept a different thread style?
Is it yellow brass or something else?
I hear from many sources that the MV36 is definitely one to try!
- Soulbrass
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mar 08, 2023
Also…I guess I should include carbon fiber in this query. Does anyone have any specific or general feedback on carbon fiber lead pipes???
- RichC
- Posts: 177
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
Does your MV36 have Conn threads…or did you change the receiver on your horn to accept a different thread style?
Is it yellow brass or something else?
I hear from many sources that the MV36 is definitely one to try!
I just have a pull ring on it. And, it's the yellow brass version.
- atopper333
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Mar 09, 2022
[quote="RichC"]I recently remembered that I had a tenor pipe from quite a while ago and took a look. It was a Brad Close MV36. That pipe is a game changer - for me - much more open and I’m now enjoying the slide. Of course, every one is different so YRMV.[/quote]
Second on Brad’s MV36 pipe. I have a Blessing 2525 slide that’s essentially the sameish. The stock leadpipe was very constructive. Replacing it with a press fit really made all the difference.
I would be interested in the MK Drawing Conn style medium bore pipe…but I may be selling that particular horn to cover another project…
Second on Brad’s MV36 pipe. I have a Blessing 2525 slide that’s essentially the sameish. The stock leadpipe was very constructive. Replacing it with a press fit really made all the difference.
I would be interested in the MK Drawing Conn style medium bore pipe…but I may be selling that particular horn to cover another project…
- MrHCinDE
- Posts: 1039
- Joined: Jul 01, 2018
I used to have an SL2525 and played it with an Elkhart (N-series) 8h bell, sometimes with an Eastlake 88ht also.
The stock pipes were ok but I mainly played on either a Conn style MK drawing .525 in sterling silver, or a Corp-era Bach 36 pipe that someone had pulled from a 36.
I found the MK pipe to play with a rich, dense sound, helping me also to soften out the occasional overly strong articulation and just tame the slide a bit (being mainly a large bore and bass player at the time). It still kept clean attacks and a lively sound, and sounded more compact than a .547 slide. I think it paired really well with the very lively 8h bell. Slotting was also improved compared to the stock pipes, pretty clean to move through partials but still feeling like a Conn.
For the times I wanted a more open sound, say for playing chorales in a trombone choir, the 36 pipe was also very good. It was noticeably closer to a .547 playing feel, but more efficient in terms of air than .547. I used to say it brought a bit of Bach 36 character to the setup. For a while I had the SL2524/8h and a very lively Corp 36, with the 36 pipe the Conn and Bach setups were recognisably close. Pretty handy for a cheap part to have in the case which transforms the sound.
The stock pipes were ok but I mainly played on either a Conn style MK drawing .525 in sterling silver, or a Corp-era Bach 36 pipe that someone had pulled from a 36.
I found the MK pipe to play with a rich, dense sound, helping me also to soften out the occasional overly strong articulation and just tame the slide a bit (being mainly a large bore and bass player at the time). It still kept clean attacks and a lively sound, and sounded more compact than a .547 slide. I think it paired really well with the very lively 8h bell. Slotting was also improved compared to the stock pipes, pretty clean to move through partials but still feeling like a Conn.
For the times I wanted a more open sound, say for playing chorales in a trombone choir, the 36 pipe was also very good. It was noticeably closer to a .547 playing feel, but more efficient in terms of air than .547. I used to say it brought a bit of Bach 36 character to the setup. For a while I had the SL2524/8h and a very lively Corp 36, with the 36 pipe the Conn and Bach setups were recognisably close. Pretty handy for a cheap part to have in the case which transforms the sound.
- Soulbrass
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mar 08, 2023
MrHCinDE - thanks for that overview…appreciated!
Your characterizations of the two setups play right into the question I have to ask myself each time I use the SL2525…”do I want to be a big, small horn or a small, big horn in this situation”?
Your characterizations of the two setups play right into the question I have to ask myself each time I use the SL2525…”do I want to be a big, small horn or a small, big horn in this situation”?
- Rusty
- Posts: 470
- Joined: Jun 01, 2018
My experience isn’t with a Conn, but I’ve tried a bunch of .525 in a Shires of various configurations. The pipes that impressed me most were the Brassark MV36 (small shank, I tried a large shank .525 version and didn’t like it as much), the Shires RS (again small shank was best), and the standard Shires M2. All of these were very nicely balanced and played with a nice sound and response, and I don’t think you could go too far wrong with any of them.
- Soulbrass
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mar 08, 2023
Rusty - thanks for those impressions! How would you describe the differences in the MV36 and the two Shires pipes? Do you have a favorite? If so, why?
Also…can I trouble you to share the comparative lengths of the MV36, the RS, and the M2?
To All - is there any appreciable difference between a drop-in lead pipe and a threaded version of the same pipe? I only have experience with threaded pipes.
Thanks in advance!
Also…can I trouble you to share the comparative lengths of the MV36, the RS, and the M2?
To All - is there any appreciable difference between a drop-in lead pipe and a threaded version of the same pipe? I only have experience with threaded pipes.
Thanks in advance!
- Rusty
- Posts: 470
- Joined: Jun 01, 2018
[quote="Soulbrass"]Rusty - thanks for those impressions! How would you describe the differences in the MV36 and the two Shires pipes? Do you have a favorite? If so, why?
Also…can I trouble you to share the comparative lengths of the MV36, the RS, and the M2?
To All - is there any appreciable difference between a drop-in lead pipe and a threaded version of the same pipe? I only have experience with threaded pipes.
Thanks in advance![/quote]
I can’t remember the lengths sorry, but from memory the MV36 was slightly longer than the Shires RS, but I could be wrong. I’ve since moved on from my .525 horn.
The MV36 (drawn yellow brass) had a lighter and more responsive, colourful sound. It was very even over the whole horn. For the way I play, I end up coming back to the thicker core of sound Shires pipes seem to give me (I had the same experience on my Shires .508 MD+ where I prefer the 1.5 pipe that came with the horn even over the very popular Brassark 32H seamed copper pipe).
The RS pipe also had a nice colourful sound, with perhaps more depth and weight to the sound and attacks. In saying this I’d say both were excellent and I didn’t have a particular favourite, it will come down to what you prefer personally. The Shires 2 I didn’t spend as much time on but it was a nice middle of the road pipe that did everything well. I’d say you’d find the same with an Edwards #2.
If you’re having trouble finding one, I know Presto Music in Adelaide South Australia has a small shank Shires RS pipe in stock (I had ordered it but ended up selling the horn before it had arrived!).
I also think in order of preference, a soldered in leadpipe would be best, followed by a threaded pipe, and then press fit. You’d have to do some comparisons with the same leadpipe to test the exact differences.
Also…can I trouble you to share the comparative lengths of the MV36, the RS, and the M2?
To All - is there any appreciable difference between a drop-in lead pipe and a threaded version of the same pipe? I only have experience with threaded pipes.
Thanks in advance![/quote]
I can’t remember the lengths sorry, but from memory the MV36 was slightly longer than the Shires RS, but I could be wrong. I’ve since moved on from my .525 horn.
The MV36 (drawn yellow brass) had a lighter and more responsive, colourful sound. It was very even over the whole horn. For the way I play, I end up coming back to the thicker core of sound Shires pipes seem to give me (I had the same experience on my Shires .508 MD+ where I prefer the 1.5 pipe that came with the horn even over the very popular Brassark 32H seamed copper pipe).
The RS pipe also had a nice colourful sound, with perhaps more depth and weight to the sound and attacks. In saying this I’d say both were excellent and I didn’t have a particular favourite, it will come down to what you prefer personally. The Shires 2 I didn’t spend as much time on but it was a nice middle of the road pipe that did everything well. I’d say you’d find the same with an Edwards #2.
If you’re having trouble finding one, I know Presto Music in Adelaide South Australia has a small shank Shires RS pipe in stock (I had ordered it but ended up selling the horn before it had arrived!).
I also think in order of preference, a soldered in leadpipe would be best, followed by a threaded pipe, and then press fit. You’d have to do some comparisons with the same leadpipe to test the exact differences.
- HawaiiTromboneGuy
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Sep 03, 2018
I’m currently using a Shires .525” NLW slide with my Frankenhorn.
Like Rusty, I was using the Shires RS pipe (ss) for awhile and was quite happy with it. Curiosity got the best of me and I recently acquired a bunch of Brad’s MV 36 seamed pipes in different configurations.
In the photo, from L-R is Brad’s MV 36 in copper (ss), copper (ls), rose brass (ss), Shires RS (ss), and RS (ls). The first pipe I bought was from Brad when he listed his one-off ls copper 36 pipe back in July here on the forum. I was so impressed by it that I went ahead and bought the same pipe, but for ss. I more recently acquired the rose brass MV 36 pipe (from a forum member) at the beginning of the month and have yet to really try it out as I’m playing a different horn for our community band’s winter concert series. Once that’s done I plan to switch back and will deep dive between the different pipes. To make things even more interesting, I also went ahead and ordered a MV 36 pipe in sterling silver as I absolutely love the way sterling pipes play. On my large Shires slide I use the #2 pipe in sterling. From what I understand, Brad uses a different method from Shires when making his sterling pipes and they aren’t as long, either.
Like Rusty, I was using the Shires RS pipe (ss) for awhile and was quite happy with it. Curiosity got the best of me and I recently acquired a bunch of Brad’s MV 36 seamed pipes in different configurations.
In the photo, from L-R is Brad’s MV 36 in copper (ss), copper (ls), rose brass (ss), Shires RS (ss), and RS (ls). The first pipe I bought was from Brad when he listed his one-off ls copper 36 pipe back in July here on the forum. I was so impressed by it that I went ahead and bought the same pipe, but for ss. I more recently acquired the rose brass MV 36 pipe (from a forum member) at the beginning of the month and have yet to really try it out as I’m playing a different horn for our community band’s winter concert series. Once that’s done I plan to switch back and will deep dive between the different pipes. To make things even more interesting, I also went ahead and ordered a MV 36 pipe in sterling silver as I absolutely love the way sterling pipes play. On my large Shires slide I use the #2 pipe in sterling. From what I understand, Brad uses a different method from Shires when making his sterling pipes and they aren’t as long, either.
- Soulbrass
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mar 08, 2023
Rusty and HawaiiTromboneGuy…awesome info! Appreciated!
I’ve amended my WTB/ISO-classified search for a few .525” pipes that seem to be widely embraced just to get some initial comparison vs my existing Conn T.
All…any additional 411 is welcome.
Thanks!
I’ve amended my WTB/ISO-classified search for a few .525” pipes that seem to be widely embraced just to get some initial comparison vs my existing Conn T.
All…any additional 411 is welcome.
Thanks!
- Soulbrass
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Mar 08, 2023
[quote="HawaiiTromboneGuy"]I’m currently using a Shires .525” NLW slide with my Frankenhorn.
Like Rusty, I was using the Shires RS pipe (ss) for awhile and was quite happy with it. Curiosity got the best of me and I recently acquired a bunch of Brad’s MV 36 seamed pipes in different configurations.
In the photo, from L-R is Brad’s MV 36 in copper (ss), copper (ls), rose brass (ss), Shires RS (ss), and RS (ls). The first pipe I bought was from Brad when he listed his one-off ls copper 36 pipe back in July here on the forum. I was so impressed by it that I went ahead and bought the same pipe, but for ss. I more recently acquired the rose brass MV 36 pipe (from a forum member) at the beginning of the month and have yet to really try it out as I’m playing a different horn for our community band’s winter concert series. Once that’s done I plan to switch back and will deep dive between the different pipes. To make things even more interesting, I also went ahead and ordered a MV 36 pipe in sterling silver as I absolutely love the way sterling pipes play. On my large Shires slide I use the #2 pipe in sterling. From what I understand, Brad uses a different method from Shires when making his sterling pipes and they aren’t as long, either.[/quote]
RE: the BrassArk MV36…what was the blow experience playing the same pipe in the small shank version vs large shank? …and what is your perception of rose brass vs copper?
Also...could you compare/contrast the Shires RS vs MV36?
Thanks!
Like Rusty, I was using the Shires RS pipe (ss) for awhile and was quite happy with it. Curiosity got the best of me and I recently acquired a bunch of Brad’s MV 36 seamed pipes in different configurations.
In the photo, from L-R is Brad’s MV 36 in copper (ss), copper (ls), rose brass (ss), Shires RS (ss), and RS (ls). The first pipe I bought was from Brad when he listed his one-off ls copper 36 pipe back in July here on the forum. I was so impressed by it that I went ahead and bought the same pipe, but for ss. I more recently acquired the rose brass MV 36 pipe (from a forum member) at the beginning of the month and have yet to really try it out as I’m playing a different horn for our community band’s winter concert series. Once that’s done I plan to switch back and will deep dive between the different pipes. To make things even more interesting, I also went ahead and ordered a MV 36 pipe in sterling silver as I absolutely love the way sterling pipes play. On my large Shires slide I use the #2 pipe in sterling. From what I understand, Brad uses a different method from Shires when making his sterling pipes and they aren’t as long, either.[/quote]
RE: the BrassArk MV36…what was the blow experience playing the same pipe in the small shank version vs large shank? …and what is your perception of rose brass vs copper?
Also...could you compare/contrast the Shires RS vs MV36?
Thanks!