Cut Bell Maintenance
- Samit2011
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Aug 05, 2019
Hey folks,
I recently purchased my first horn with a cut bell and I was wondering if there’s any steps I should take to make sure that the bell is able to screw on and off properly over time.
I recently purchased my first horn with a cut bell and I was wondering if there’s any steps I should take to make sure that the bell is able to screw on and off properly over time.
- tbonesullivan
- Posts: 1959
- Joined: Jul 02, 2019
Maybe a bit of light tuning slide grease on the threads? Not too much, as it can have dust / dirt stick to it.
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
I put bearing oil on my rings. Every once in a while wipe it all down and do it again
- JohnL
- Posts: 2529
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
My wife uses powdered graphite on the bell threads of her French horns.
- norbie2018
- Posts: 1051
- Joined: Apr 05, 2018
Stick with graphite. You can use a standard #2 pencil and rub it on the threads but they also sell the powdered graphite.
- JohnL
- Posts: 2529
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="norbie2018"]...they also sell the powdered graphite.[/quote]
Handy stuff to have around the house. Works great for uncooperative locks.
Handy stuff to have around the house. Works great for uncooperative locks.
- Gfunk
- Posts: 149
- Joined: Jan 10, 2022
Use a #2 pencil to trace the threads. Oil and grease will trap dirt and requires maintaining. If it starts to squeak, put in more pencil graphite. Don’t overtighten the threads, it can wear out the threads over time.
- Samit2011
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Aug 05, 2019
With the powdered graphite, do you put it on a rag/paper towel and rub it along the ridge?
- elmsandr
- Posts: 1373
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="Samit2011"]With the powdered graphite, do you put it on a rag/paper towel and rub it along the ridge?[/quote]
Often it comes in little tubes with a dropper bottle like tip. I just squeeze a little out just like oil. It just happens to be a dry lubricant not an oil.
Cheers,
Andy
Often it comes in little tubes with a dropper bottle like tip. I just squeeze a little out just like oil. It just happens to be a dry lubricant not an oil.
Cheers,
Andy
- paysonmcc
- Posts: 71
- Joined: May 21, 2019
I have tried a few different ways with varying success. The most important part is to keep the threads clean. I clean mine at around 2 weeks. Max Thein recommended valve oil on the threads, and I've liked that method the best so far.
- Leanit
- Posts: 160
- Joined: Sep 04, 2018
My buddy went to put his screw-bell horn in the case for a trip and found it stuck. His big-shot horn player wife said, "You dumbass. Never put the bell on without lubing it first. We horn players to that every time we put it together."
- slidesix
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Jan 03, 2025
For threads of a metal on metal surface, i might try thicker key oil or linkage oil. But i think the optimal lube is probably powered graphite, like you might use on locks, lock hardware, or hinges.
Powered graphite is solid in hardware stores near keys section. It is often in an eye dropper bottle and meant to be dispensed straight from the squeezed, inverted bottle directly on what you lube. It is quite effective as a lube and lasts a long time. It is also temperature insensitive. So it works well in very cold weather.
Powered graphite is solid in hardware stores near keys section. It is often in an eye dropper bottle and meant to be dispensed straight from the squeezed, inverted bottle directly on what you lube. It is quite effective as a lube and lasts a long time. It is also temperature insensitive. So it works well in very cold weather.
- jjenkins
- Posts: 364
- Joined: Apr 22, 2018
You could also use a dry lube spray, which is what many cyclist use on their chains because it lubricates and greatly reduces friction, but doesn't attract dirt or dust. It's graphite or PTFE nanoparticles in aerosol.
- pfrancis
- Posts: 172
- Joined: Jul 22, 2018
In my opinion: graphite (dry) or nothing. If you are tearing it down after each use the threads will become smoother through use.
Unless leaving a cut bell assembled for extended periods (weeks/months) there is no good reason to lubricate (with something like grease). Just barely snug it when tightening and it will come apart every time.
Does anyone here grease the receiver nut? (@ the bell>slide connection) I sure don’t and mine has never gotten stuck…
Unless leaving a cut bell assembled for extended periods (weeks/months) there is no good reason to lubricate (with something like grease). Just barely snug it when tightening and it will come apart every time.
Does anyone here grease the receiver nut? (@ the bell>slide connection) I sure don’t and mine has never gotten stuck…
- RJMason
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Jun 05, 2018
I’ve had multiple horns with detachable bells for over a decade now and I am in the camp of #2 pencil to trace the threads occasionally otherwise keep it dry. And until you have (or can quickly receive) a detachable bell case do not order a horn with one. I wouldn’t want it locked into place for months.
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
My cut bells make awful, awful noises when being put together or taken apart unless they are lubed somehow.
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="Burgerbob"]My cut bells make awful, awful noises when being put together or taken apart unless they are lubed somehow.[/quote]
Also the Y-Fort? All the Y-Forts I had some far were pretty silent when putting together.
Also the Y-Fort? All the Y-Forts I had some far were pretty silent when putting together.
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
Mine did some awful screams before I lubed it. Mine is also a bit damaged from a previous owner, though.