The Bach 50 thread
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
I’d like to start a thread to discuss all things Bach 50. Practically everyone’s owned one or played one, and there are a million weird and wonderful customised version of this classic design out in the world. Many on this forum, in fact!
As someone who loves the sound of a good Bach 50, I have plans to alter my early Elkhart horn to my liking in the near future. In its current form, it’s a little demanding to play, but everyone keeps telling me how much they love the sound, so I persist. Hopefully I can tweak it a little so as to reconcile how it sounds with how it feels at times. More on that later...
Anyhow, to kick things off, tell me about the best Bach 50 you’ve ever played.
I’ll start:
One of my former teachers has an 80’s horn (yellow 9.5 inch bell, standard slide) which he had converted to a very early set of original Thayer valves soon after they started appearing on the market. The horn is very even top to bottom, open but not cavernous, and has a solid core to the sound, but with a wonderful glow and resonance. Very confidence inspiring to play, and projects wonderfully.
Your turn! Tell us about your favourite Bach basses!
Andrew
As someone who loves the sound of a good Bach 50, I have plans to alter my early Elkhart horn to my liking in the near future. In its current form, it’s a little demanding to play, but everyone keeps telling me how much they love the sound, so I persist. Hopefully I can tweak it a little so as to reconcile how it sounds with how it feels at times. More on that later...
Anyhow, to kick things off, tell me about the best Bach 50 you’ve ever played.
I’ll start:
One of my former teachers has an 80’s horn (yellow 9.5 inch bell, standard slide) which he had converted to a very early set of original Thayer valves soon after they started appearing on the market. The horn is very even top to bottom, open but not cavernous, and has a solid core to the sound, but with a wonderful glow and resonance. Very confidence inspiring to play, and projects wonderfully.
Your turn! Tell us about your favourite Bach basses!
Andrew
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
Oh great. Now I have to remember all of them!
I think I've owned 8, 9... 10? 50s in some sort or another.
I look back fondly on my Corp 50B, which I think was a pretty stellar instrument. Only mod on that horn was a Shires linkage and a Shires counterweight. I'm actually not sure what happened to it... I sold it or traded it somewhere along the line.
I've had a couple other Corp horns that sounded really good, very vintage... I especially remember a 50B2 with stuck tuning slides that had a really amazing core to the sound. But, it was very hard to play, and the sound was really just that one sound. No malleability to it. Fortissimo was nearly impossible.
I quite liked my most recent horn, my 50 with first gen Thayers (like the ones you mentioned), especially with my heavier '90s screwbell and a really beater Edwards dual bore slide. Was this a horn for everything? By no means. But it was very satisfying to play, and in an orchestra section it really filled out that 3rd part. Sadly, all those parts are gone now!
The 50 I'm playing right now is a stock early 2000's 50A3 with a cut tuning slide. It's a little maddening in that it does some things better than almost all other Bachs I've played, but then will let me down with some major flaw (Hagmanns may be my least favorite valve of all time). It also has a strange way of making my Greg Black feel larger than it is... not sure what that's about.
The best 50 I've played was the 50AF3 at NAMM. It felt good, was easy to play, sounded good (hearing other play it as well)... Really no downsides, and better in most aspects than the other boutique horns at the show. I'm sure I could have found some flaws with more time, but at first glance (probably a good 45 minutes of monopolizing it at the show) it was a 9/10 horn out of the box.
I think I've owned 8, 9... 10? 50s in some sort or another.
I look back fondly on my Corp 50B, which I think was a pretty stellar instrument. Only mod on that horn was a Shires linkage and a Shires counterweight. I'm actually not sure what happened to it... I sold it or traded it somewhere along the line.
I've had a couple other Corp horns that sounded really good, very vintage... I especially remember a 50B2 with stuck tuning slides that had a really amazing core to the sound. But, it was very hard to play, and the sound was really just that one sound. No malleability to it. Fortissimo was nearly impossible.
I quite liked my most recent horn, my 50 with first gen Thayers (like the ones you mentioned), especially with my heavier '90s screwbell and a really beater Edwards dual bore slide. Was this a horn for everything? By no means. But it was very satisfying to play, and in an orchestra section it really filled out that 3rd part. Sadly, all those parts are gone now!
The 50 I'm playing right now is a stock early 2000's 50A3 with a cut tuning slide. It's a little maddening in that it does some things better than almost all other Bachs I've played, but then will let me down with some major flaw (Hagmanns may be my least favorite valve of all time). It also has a strange way of making my Greg Black feel larger than it is... not sure what that's about.
The best 50 I've played was the 50AF3 at NAMM. It felt good, was easy to play, sounded good (hearing other play it as well)... Really no downsides, and better in most aspects than the other boutique horns at the show. I'm sure I could have found some flaws with more time, but at first glance (probably a good 45 minutes of monopolizing it at the show) it was a 9/10 horn out of the box.
- blast
- Posts: 671
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
I've had a few Bachs.... I always give up on them in the end as they are so hard to play. Best was probably a NY 50. Very used and abused but so sweet to play.Long gone. I have a stacked Corp B2 at the moment... very used but such a good sound and blow. I got that from an ex-student how needed it gone. Intend to move it on but I'm in no rush... a nice thing to blow from time to time.
Chris
Chris
- GabrielRice
- Posts: 1496
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I learned to play bass trombone on a 50B3 with a gold brass bell and a light weight slide. I bought it new in October 1987; two 50B3s were delivered to Giardinelli's in NYC the week of my fall break home from college, both with the same configuration. The other one was a dog. The next summer I had the valve tubing open wrapped and the leadpipe pulled and replaced with something from Chuck McAlexander at The Brasslab. Ray Premru liked my Bach pretty well and told me he had bought a single valve version of it at one point, but found it didn't fit with the Conns the tenor players in the Philharmonia played. When I listen back to recordings of myself with it in that configuration I like the sound a lot.
Later on I had the valves replaced with a Thayer conversion, and removing a brace attached to the bell reduced some of the stability. Steve Shires made a "tone tumor" for it to counteract that - essentially a chunk of brass soldered on near the diamond flange.
Then a couple of years later I wore a hole in the slide, and other wear spots started to scare me. I tried a few different slides to replace it and ended up with a prototype from Doug Yeo's Yamaha model. At one point I had a Conn leadpipe in that slide, so there were 4 different manufacturers represented on my trombone. When I was tired there were notes that simply wouldn't speak.
When Steve started his own company and started making bass trombones I bought one and sold what was left of that Bach. I wish I still had it. What I really wish is that I had never had the Thayers put on it and still had it the way I played it for most of college.
----------------------------------
Now I own a very early (4-digit s/n) Corporation 50B - so early I'm sure some parts of it were built in Mt Vernon, and it had the valve lever from there - that has ended up with a single Rotax valve installed with Shires parts for the wrap, but is otherwise factory stock and all yellow brass. It's a great Bach, but is harder to play in the upper register than my Shires configurations. It's seen some wear - scars on the bell from damage - but the slide works great with the right lubrication, and there's a presence to the sound at any dynamic that's outstanding. I bought it from the estate of a Boston trombone player named Dennis Lambert who helped me get started early on in my professional career. RIP Dennis...you left us too young, but you certainly left us with lots of stories.
I used to teach a student whose wife - also an amateur bass trombone player - has an early 70s (11XXX s/n) 50B2 that I've asked them to please sell me if she ever wants to part with it. Easy, even response, and the classic Bach sound. She bought it on a whim at a garage sale and learned to play bass trombone on it. The levers have never even been split.
A couple of years ago I stopped in a Dillon's one day and pulled an older closed wrap 50B3 with a 10.5" gold brass bell off the wall. It played GREAT! Very even sound and response, and note-y excerpts like Fountains just popped out clean as a whistle.
Excellent Bachs are out there. You just have to play them and find one that fits you.
Later on I had the valves replaced with a Thayer conversion, and removing a brace attached to the bell reduced some of the stability. Steve Shires made a "tone tumor" for it to counteract that - essentially a chunk of brass soldered on near the diamond flange.
Then a couple of years later I wore a hole in the slide, and other wear spots started to scare me. I tried a few different slides to replace it and ended up with a prototype from Doug Yeo's Yamaha model. At one point I had a Conn leadpipe in that slide, so there were 4 different manufacturers represented on my trombone. When I was tired there were notes that simply wouldn't speak.
When Steve started his own company and started making bass trombones I bought one and sold what was left of that Bach. I wish I still had it. What I really wish is that I had never had the Thayers put on it and still had it the way I played it for most of college.
----------------------------------
Now I own a very early (4-digit s/n) Corporation 50B - so early I'm sure some parts of it were built in Mt Vernon, and it had the valve lever from there - that has ended up with a single Rotax valve installed with Shires parts for the wrap, but is otherwise factory stock and all yellow brass. It's a great Bach, but is harder to play in the upper register than my Shires configurations. It's seen some wear - scars on the bell from damage - but the slide works great with the right lubrication, and there's a presence to the sound at any dynamic that's outstanding. I bought it from the estate of a Boston trombone player named Dennis Lambert who helped me get started early on in my professional career. RIP Dennis...you left us too young, but you certainly left us with lots of stories.
I used to teach a student whose wife - also an amateur bass trombone player - has an early 70s (11XXX s/n) 50B2 that I've asked them to please sell me if she ever wants to part with it. Easy, even response, and the classic Bach sound. She bought it on a whim at a garage sale and learned to play bass trombone on it. The levers have never even been split.
A couple of years ago I stopped in a Dillon's one day and pulled an older closed wrap 50B3 with a 10.5" gold brass bell off the wall. It played GREAT! Very even sound and response, and note-y excerpts like Fountains just popped out clean as a whistle.
Excellent Bachs are out there. You just have to play them and find one that fits you.
- elmsandr
- Posts: 1373
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
Ooooh, fun.
First bass was a school owned Corp 50B that I had repaired to working condition. Great paper thin bell, easy speaking and a lot of fun. Finally got my own beat up 50B2, a silver plated horn that looked decent after a little work and was generally functional. Was so happy to get an Edwards that I sold it. Probably should have kept it. That Edwards eventually got a Bach flare as it always seemed to be missing something... then I went back in to the Bach world with both feet.
Next with an early Elkhart B2 with a 10.0” gold flare. Split the triggers, got a D extension, tried for a couple of years to fight it before putting Thayers on it, now it is a different type of fight. Got an opportunity to pick up a NY 50B that is absolutely stunning. It has had some repairs done, the ferrules on the slide crook aren’t original, but overall is in perfect cosmetic shape now with a great gold finish. Funny how this ancient valve doesn’t push back the way all of the more modern ones do. I have a second period valve section that I’ll make into a drop in valve one of these days, but I just haven’t felt the need to even interface to this horn beyond putting it on my face and blowing. Though, I will admit that I currently play it with an M&W slide that was made as a replacement for a different vintage bass.
Of these, they are all different, but which is best? I suppose it depends on what you want to do. The NY 50 has the best ‘wallow in your own sound’ moments, but it requires more consistent effort to play at peak. The silver 50B2 was a tank that always responded the same regardless of input, for better or worse.
Cheers,
Andy
First bass was a school owned Corp 50B that I had repaired to working condition. Great paper thin bell, easy speaking and a lot of fun. Finally got my own beat up 50B2, a silver plated horn that looked decent after a little work and was generally functional. Was so happy to get an Edwards that I sold it. Probably should have kept it. That Edwards eventually got a Bach flare as it always seemed to be missing something... then I went back in to the Bach world with both feet.
Next with an early Elkhart B2 with a 10.0” gold flare. Split the triggers, got a D extension, tried for a couple of years to fight it before putting Thayers on it, now it is a different type of fight. Got an opportunity to pick up a NY 50B that is absolutely stunning. It has had some repairs done, the ferrules on the slide crook aren’t original, but overall is in perfect cosmetic shape now with a great gold finish. Funny how this ancient valve doesn’t push back the way all of the more modern ones do. I have a second period valve section that I’ll make into a drop in valve one of these days, but I just haven’t felt the need to even interface to this horn beyond putting it on my face and blowing. Though, I will admit that I currently play it with an M&W slide that was made as a replacement for a different vintage bass.
Of these, they are all different, but which is best? I suppose it depends on what you want to do. The NY 50 has the best ‘wallow in your own sound’ moments, but it requires more consistent effort to play at peak. The silver 50B2 was a tank that always responded the same regardless of input, for better or worse.
Cheers,
Andy
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
I cut my teeth in university on a late 90's 50T3. It came initially with a nickel slide. I never really produced the sound I wanted on it, until one day I tried my teachers standard weight Bach slide on my horn. And it came alive! I ordered a slide the next day. Ultimately I sold the horn, because it always had a slight nasal character that happened around mezzo forte or above, that I could never really tame. Moved on to an Edwards...
My current 50 is an early Elkhart not unlike Gabe's (serial number 85xx) which came to me as a single valve (lever under the thumb). Bell is quite light, and very lightly stamped, except for the "50B" which seems to have been hit a little harder <span class="emoji" title=":wink:">😉</span>
In an effort to use it more often, but not spend a bucket, I bought a 50b2 valve section from someone who had just done a Greenhoe conversion. He suggested it was Mt Vernon era, but I can't confirm. A stamp on the 2nd valve saddle indicated the triggers were split by Giardinelli, and the 2nd lever has "R.Stewart" stamped in the tiniest font imaginable. The slide for the 2nd valve is clearly hand bent, Minick-style, and is in D. When I had that installed, I had the slide rebuilt. The slide was given new tubes at some point before my ownership, and a Kanstul 169 pipe resides in it these days.
Much like Gabe said about his 50, this horn has real presence, and a sound which I, and others around me seem, to latch on to and gravitate towards. I'm wanting to put another set of valves on it, but these definitely won't be thayers. I'm talking to my tech about some Meinschmidt valves that he's used a bit in the past, and having played the new 42 Centennial with this valve, it seems this may be a good way to go. I want to retain that compact sound, but with a little more evenness across the horn, and a little more resonant feel in the hands. The lack of feedback and resonance in the hands can be a little disconcerting at times, compared to modern horns.
But the sound!!! Lordy...
Andrew
My current 50 is an early Elkhart not unlike Gabe's (serial number 85xx) which came to me as a single valve (lever under the thumb). Bell is quite light, and very lightly stamped, except for the "50B" which seems to have been hit a little harder <span class="emoji" title=":wink:">😉</span>
In an effort to use it more often, but not spend a bucket, I bought a 50b2 valve section from someone who had just done a Greenhoe conversion. He suggested it was Mt Vernon era, but I can't confirm. A stamp on the 2nd valve saddle indicated the triggers were split by Giardinelli, and the 2nd lever has "R.Stewart" stamped in the tiniest font imaginable. The slide for the 2nd valve is clearly hand bent, Minick-style, and is in D. When I had that installed, I had the slide rebuilt. The slide was given new tubes at some point before my ownership, and a Kanstul 169 pipe resides in it these days.
Much like Gabe said about his 50, this horn has real presence, and a sound which I, and others around me seem, to latch on to and gravitate towards. I'm wanting to put another set of valves on it, but these definitely won't be thayers. I'm talking to my tech about some Meinschmidt valves that he's used a bit in the past, and having played the new 42 Centennial with this valve, it seems this may be a good way to go. I want to retain that compact sound, but with a little more evenness across the horn, and a little more resonant feel in the hands. The lack of feedback and resonance in the hands can be a little disconcerting at times, compared to modern horns.
But the sound!!! Lordy...
Andrew
- GabrielRice
- Posts: 1496
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
Andrew, that's even a little earlier than mine - s/n 92XX. Nice!
Mine had an attractive but diffuse character to the sound with the original valve. With the Rotax, it still has a softness around the edges but the core is more clear.
Mine had an attractive but diffuse character to the sound with the original valve. With the Rotax, it still has a softness around the edges but the core is more clear.
- hyperbolica
- Posts: 3990
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
My first 50 was issued to me by the Navy in the late 80s. It was probably a B2. I was a tenor player with mainly high chops, but willing to try anything. I played bass in the stage band, and tenor the rest of the time. In that situation, bass trombone meant an occasional low C, and maybe some pedal tones.
I took some time off trombone starting about 2002 until 2013. Maybe in 2014 I realized (reluctantly) I needed a bass bone to fill out a group I was trying to grow. After all that time off, the serious chops I had were long gone, and I had to make do with what I could rebuild in about an hour a day. I picked up a B3 with closed wrap cheap. It felt great, but I thought there was a problem with the horn because it wouldn't play like magic. After a few more horns, I realized it wasn't the horn.
I'm generally not a Bach guy, but there have been some Bach horns that I've liked more than the average. 36b and 50bx have been two of them. I also played a 50a3 Hagmann at a conference that I think I could have gotten comfortable with.
I took some time off trombone starting about 2002 until 2013. Maybe in 2014 I realized (reluctantly) I needed a bass bone to fill out a group I was trying to grow. After all that time off, the serious chops I had were long gone, and I had to make do with what I could rebuild in about an hour a day. I picked up a B3 with closed wrap cheap. It felt great, but I thought there was a problem with the horn because it wouldn't play like magic. After a few more horns, I realized it wasn't the horn.
I'm generally not a Bach guy, but there have been some Bach horns that I've liked more than the average. 36b and 50bx have been two of them. I also played a 50a3 Hagmann at a conference that I think I could have gotten comfortable with.
- HawaiiTromboneGuy
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Sep 03, 2018
[quote="elmsandr"]
Next with an early Elkhart B2 with a 10.0” gold flare. Split the triggers, got a D extension, tried for a couple of years to fight it before putting Thayers on it, now it is a different type of fight. Got an opportunity to pick up a NY 50B that is absolutely stunning. It has had some repairs done, the ferrules on the slide crook aren’t original, but overall is in perfect cosmetic shape now with a great gold finish. Funny how this ancient valve doesn’t push back the way all of the more modern ones do. I have a second period valve section that I’ll make into a drop in valve one of these days, but I just haven’t felt the need to even interface to this horn beyond putting it on my face and blowing. Though, I will admit that I currently play it with an M&W slide that was made as a replacement for a different vintage bass.
Of these, they are all different, but which is best? I suppose it depends on what you want to do. The NY 50 has the best ‘wallow in your own sound’ moments, but it requires more consistent effort to play at peak. The silver 50B2 was a tank that always responded the same regardless of input, for better or worse.
Cheers,
Andy[/quote]
If you ever want to sell me back that NY 50, let me know. Hands down the best Bach 50 I’ve ever played.
Next with an early Elkhart B2 with a 10.0” gold flare. Split the triggers, got a D extension, tried for a couple of years to fight it before putting Thayers on it, now it is a different type of fight. Got an opportunity to pick up a NY 50B that is absolutely stunning. It has had some repairs done, the ferrules on the slide crook aren’t original, but overall is in perfect cosmetic shape now with a great gold finish. Funny how this ancient valve doesn’t push back the way all of the more modern ones do. I have a second period valve section that I’ll make into a drop in valve one of these days, but I just haven’t felt the need to even interface to this horn beyond putting it on my face and blowing. Though, I will admit that I currently play it with an M&W slide that was made as a replacement for a different vintage bass.
Of these, they are all different, but which is best? I suppose it depends on what you want to do. The NY 50 has the best ‘wallow in your own sound’ moments, but it requires more consistent effort to play at peak. The silver 50B2 was a tank that always responded the same regardless of input, for better or worse.
Cheers,
Andy[/quote]
If you ever want to sell me back that NY 50, let me know. Hands down the best Bach 50 I’ve ever played.
- elmsandr
- Posts: 1373
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="HawaiiTromboneGuy"]
If you ever want to sell me back that NY 50, let me know. Hands down the best Bach 50 I’ve ever played.[/quote]
Well, they say never say never... So I guess I need a thesaurus.
Some horns just have "it".
Andy
If you ever want to sell me back that NY 50, let me know. Hands down the best Bach 50 I’ve ever played.[/quote]
Well, they say never say never... So I guess I need a thesaurus.
Some horns just have "it".
Andy
- HawaiiTromboneGuy
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Sep 03, 2018
[quote="elmsandr"]<QUOTE author="HawaiiTromboneGuy" post_id="81456" time="1553530010" user_id="3695">
If you ever want to sell me back that NY 50, let me know. Hands down the best Bach 50 I’ve ever played.[/quote]
Well, they say never say never... So I guess I need a thesaurus.
Some horns just have "it".
Andy
</QUOTE>
:D :pant:
If you ever want to sell me back that NY 50, let me know. Hands down the best Bach 50 I’ve ever played.[/quote]
Well, they say never say never... So I guess I need a thesaurus.
Some horns just have "it".
Andy
</QUOTE>
:D :pant:
- Kbiggs
- Posts: 1768
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
The best Bach 50 I’ve played is... my own.
It started out as a friend/tech’s experimental horn. It was a 50B with a gold bell—I don’t know whether it was a B, a B2, or a B3. The tech had customized the valve ports so that they resembled the old Meinl-Schmidt “Star” valves and rewrapped the crooks to try to make it play more open. He’d also removed the nickel sleeves from the slide to make it lighter. With a slightly heaver G bell and a short open leadpipe, it took a lot to get it going. I bought a used valve and wrap from Ed Thayer, had the tech graft it on, and voilá, I had an independent horn. It was HARD to play, and not very stable, but I worked at it.
About 10 years ago, I bought a 50B2 online. The bell was damaged in transit. Eventually, I sold my Thayer B454 and used the dough to have John Sandhagen do a real job on it. I bought Kanstul CR valves, and asked John to make a new horn with as many of the old parts as possible. He straightened out the bell, and it plays very well. I’ve asked Benn Hansenn to do a more work over the years.
The current set-up: 2 bells that can be interchanged. One is a yellow Corporation, the other is a gold brass post-Corporation, probably early 80’s. The valves are Kanstul CR’s, and the wrap is open. The gooseneck is a custom job by Benn Hansenn. Benn also put some Greenhoe-style braces in the bell section. The slide has a nickel Olsen (Instrument Innovations) 50 crook, an M/K 50 yellow leadpipe, and a screw-on collar adapter.
How does it play? Lots of core, even response, dark natural sound that can be brightened, good slotting, good feedback behind the bell, and it projects very well. Yes, it’s a Bach, and it can sometimes take some effort to get the air moving inside it. People tell me the horn sounds great, but I like to think I have something to do with it, too. ;)
It started out as a friend/tech’s experimental horn. It was a 50B with a gold bell—I don’t know whether it was a B, a B2, or a B3. The tech had customized the valve ports so that they resembled the old Meinl-Schmidt “Star” valves and rewrapped the crooks to try to make it play more open. He’d also removed the nickel sleeves from the slide to make it lighter. With a slightly heaver G bell and a short open leadpipe, it took a lot to get it going. I bought a used valve and wrap from Ed Thayer, had the tech graft it on, and voilá, I had an independent horn. It was HARD to play, and not very stable, but I worked at it.
About 10 years ago, I bought a 50B2 online. The bell was damaged in transit. Eventually, I sold my Thayer B454 and used the dough to have John Sandhagen do a real job on it. I bought Kanstul CR valves, and asked John to make a new horn with as many of the old parts as possible. He straightened out the bell, and it plays very well. I’ve asked Benn Hansenn to do a more work over the years.
The current set-up: 2 bells that can be interchanged. One is a yellow Corporation, the other is a gold brass post-Corporation, probably early 80’s. The valves are Kanstul CR’s, and the wrap is open. The gooseneck is a custom job by Benn Hansenn. Benn also put some Greenhoe-style braces in the bell section. The slide has a nickel Olsen (Instrument Innovations) 50 crook, an M/K 50 yellow leadpipe, and a screw-on collar adapter.
How does it play? Lots of core, even response, dark natural sound that can be brightened, good slotting, good feedback behind the bell, and it projects very well. Yes, it’s a Bach, and it can sometimes take some effort to get the air moving inside it. People tell me the horn sounds great, but I like to think I have something to do with it, too. ;)
- whitbey
- Posts: 654
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
My tenor horns are all Edwards. I got my bass when I was young.
Bass Bach 50 Corporation horn. Bb/F/C. The bell is very soft and thin. The horn plays like a dream. Dependent valves old school wrap. C section is larger bore than the F section. Custom open lead pipe made years ago. Stork 1S MP. This horn is 60years old. It was bought in the 70’s from Giardinelli in New York. The sales guy I worked with said the horn was originally a single valve Mount Vernon horn that Giardinelli sent to Bach to add a second valve since they had the horn in stock for years, probably the mid 60’s. There was a solder mark on the receiver where the original lever was. With the new valve the new style twin keys were put on the bell brace. The bell was stamped Elkhorn and Corporation at that time on an angle to the original engraving. There is no serial number; it was lost when the horn was reassembled. The bell is very soft and thin and plays like a dream. The second valve was set up as a dependent Bb/F/E. I had a new tuning slide made with larger tubing in C so now the horn is Bb/F/C. Low C with both valves is in first position and plays very open. Peddle BBb is in a long 3rd and plays easy too. Low B in two trigger long 2nd position is an easy hit. So, in the key of C and the sharp keys the horn is easy to play as the positions are close to the same as with the F valve for C, B, Bb, and A. After I dislocated my left thumb I had the second valve lever moved so I squeeze it near the leadpipe. Looks like a Rube Goldberg project, but it works well. A few years after I bought this horn in line valves became the popular choice. I never changed it because is just works so easy. I mostly play tenor. On this bass I can blend with a full sound or dominate. I play bass more for breath building playing things one and two octaves lower. With both valves a double peddle Ab is around 6th or 7th and sounds nice.
Pics are in my profile.
Bass Bach 50 Corporation horn. Bb/F/C. The bell is very soft and thin. The horn plays like a dream. Dependent valves old school wrap. C section is larger bore than the F section. Custom open lead pipe made years ago. Stork 1S MP. This horn is 60years old. It was bought in the 70’s from Giardinelli in New York. The sales guy I worked with said the horn was originally a single valve Mount Vernon horn that Giardinelli sent to Bach to add a second valve since they had the horn in stock for years, probably the mid 60’s. There was a solder mark on the receiver where the original lever was. With the new valve the new style twin keys were put on the bell brace. The bell was stamped Elkhorn and Corporation at that time on an angle to the original engraving. There is no serial number; it was lost when the horn was reassembled. The bell is very soft and thin and plays like a dream. The second valve was set up as a dependent Bb/F/E. I had a new tuning slide made with larger tubing in C so now the horn is Bb/F/C. Low C with both valves is in first position and plays very open. Peddle BBb is in a long 3rd and plays easy too. Low B in two trigger long 2nd position is an easy hit. So, in the key of C and the sharp keys the horn is easy to play as the positions are close to the same as with the F valve for C, B, Bb, and A. After I dislocated my left thumb I had the second valve lever moved so I squeeze it near the leadpipe. Looks like a Rube Goldberg project, but it works well. A few years after I bought this horn in line valves became the popular choice. I never changed it because is just works so easy. I mostly play tenor. On this bass I can blend with a full sound or dominate. I play bass more for breath building playing things one and two octaves lower. With both valves a double peddle Ab is around 6th or 7th and sounds nice.
Pics are in my profile.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
Anyone have any thoughts on reversing the main tuning slide vs leaving it as is?
Andrew
Andrew
- Kbiggs
- Posts: 1768
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
My horn has a reversed tuning slide. I don’t know what it’s like compard to the standard Bach set up as my horn always had it.
- LIBrassCo
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Feb 24, 2019
I dont think anyone is going to hear any kind of difference.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
[quote="LIBrassCo"]I dont think anyone is going to hear any kind of difference.[/quote]
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew
- PhilE
- Posts: 97
- Joined: Apr 26, 2018
[quote="TheBoneRanger"]Anyone have any thoughts on reversing the main tuning slide vs leaving it as is?
Andrew[/quote]
I had it done to a Corp era 42G. It didn't improve it at all. In fact I'd say it detracted a little from its sound and playability. Good Bach horns work pretty well in their standard configuration. If it is not a good Bach horn to start with then it is probably something else that needs adjusting rather than the tuning slide.
Back to the Bach 50 - mine is a 4 digit Corp era horn with Greenhoe valves. Its the most resonant horn I've played. It is the standard yellow brass bell. The sound is typical Bach. Warm and solid with edge when required. Easy high and low registers. I've just fitted a Brass Ark MV50 lead pipe which has made it even better.
Interestingly, the mouthpiece that works the best with this lead pipe is a Bach Corp 1.5G. It just feels like it was made for it (which it probably was).
Phil
Andrew[/quote]
I had it done to a Corp era 42G. It didn't improve it at all. In fact I'd say it detracted a little from its sound and playability. Good Bach horns work pretty well in their standard configuration. If it is not a good Bach horn to start with then it is probably something else that needs adjusting rather than the tuning slide.
Back to the Bach 50 - mine is a 4 digit Corp era horn with Greenhoe valves. Its the most resonant horn I've played. It is the standard yellow brass bell. The sound is typical Bach. Warm and solid with edge when required. Easy high and low registers. I've just fitted a Brass Ark MV50 lead pipe which has made it even better.
Interestingly, the mouthpiece that works the best with this lead pipe is a Bach Corp 1.5G. It just feels like it was made for it (which it probably was).
Phil
- mrdeacon
- Posts: 1225
- Joined: May 08, 2018
[quote="TheBoneRanger"]<QUOTE author="LIBrassCo" post_id="81833" time="1553951954" user_id="4931">
I dont think anyone is going to hear any kind of difference.[/quote]
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew
</QUOTE>
Anyone who says that playing without a slide lock does nothing hasn't done it before. On every horn I've had it either... A. Makes the horn play better or B. Makes it play like an unfocused pile of trash. No in between. I haven't had a horn where I'd describe taking off the slide lock as doing nothing.
But then again... I am one of those guys who has to have my mouthpiece the same way in my horn every time I play it haha.
Playing without the slide bumper is just ridiculous though... that does nothing! :pant:
I dont think anyone is going to hear any kind of difference.[/quote]
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew
</QUOTE>
Anyone who says that playing without a slide lock does nothing hasn't done it before. On every horn I've had it either... A. Makes the horn play better or B. Makes it play like an unfocused pile of trash. No in between. I haven't had a horn where I'd describe taking off the slide lock as doing nothing.
But then again... I am one of those guys who has to have my mouthpiece the same way in my horn every time I play it haha.
Playing without the slide bumper is just ridiculous though... that does nothing! :pant:
- LIBrassCo
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Feb 24, 2019
[quote="TheBoneRanger"]<QUOTE author="LIBrassCo" post_id="81833" time="1553951954" user_id="4931">
I dont think anyone is going to hear any kind of difference.[/quote]
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew
</QUOTE>
Don't even get me started on that. Thats right up there with taking off the rubber on the bottom of the slide crook changes the sound too. If people only know exactly how impossible all of that is. You wouldn't believe how much it takes to make an appreciable difference in sound that even carries 10 feet from the player.
I dont think anyone is going to hear any kind of difference.[/quote]
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew
</QUOTE>
Don't even get me started on that. Thats right up there with taking off the rubber on the bottom of the slide crook changes the sound too. If people only know exactly how impossible all of that is. You wouldn't believe how much it takes to make an appreciable difference in sound that even carries 10 feet from the player.
- LIBrassCo
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Feb 24, 2019
[quote="mrdeacon"]<QUOTE author="TheBoneRanger" post_id="81886" time="1554014165" user_id="2973">
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew[/quote]
Anyone who says that playing without a slide lock does nothing hasn't done it before. On every horn I've had it either... A. Makes the horn play better or B. Makes it play like an unfocused pile of trash. No in between. I haven't had a horn where I'd describe taking off the slide lock as doing nothing.
But then again... I am one of those guys who has to have my mouthpiece the same way in my horn every time I play it haha.
Playing without the slide bumper is just ridiculous though... that does nothing! :pant:
</QUOTE>
I should be scareful what i ask for :lol:
I just don't have the strength to have this argument.
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew[/quote]
Anyone who says that playing without a slide lock does nothing hasn't done it before. On every horn I've had it either... A. Makes the horn play better or B. Makes it play like an unfocused pile of trash. No in between. I haven't had a horn where I'd describe taking off the slide lock as doing nothing.
But then again... I am one of those guys who has to have my mouthpiece the same way in my horn every time I play it haha.
Playing without the slide bumper is just ridiculous though... that does nothing! :pant:
</QUOTE>
I should be scareful what i ask for :lol:
I just don't have the strength to have this argument.
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
[quote="LIBrassCo"]<QUOTE author="TheBoneRanger" post_id="81886" time="1554014165" user_id="2973">
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew[/quote]
Don't even get me started on that. Thats right up there with taking off the rubber on the bottom of the slide crook changes the sound too. If people only know exactly how impossible all of that is. You wouldn't believe how much it takes to make an appreciable difference in sound that even carries 10 feet from the player.
</QUOTE>
It's not about the sound, it's about the response.
I have done the same with a Shires I used to play- it was much more resonant with the slide lock off. Could people hear that? Probably not, but I liked playing it that way more.
Perhaps. But some players swear they can feel/hear the difference with a slide lock removed, or with the water key screw backed off a quarter turn. So I reckon this would have a bigger effect. It's just much harder to A/B test...
Andrew[/quote]
Don't even get me started on that. Thats right up there with taking off the rubber on the bottom of the slide crook changes the sound too. If people only know exactly how impossible all of that is. You wouldn't believe how much it takes to make an appreciable difference in sound that even carries 10 feet from the player.
</QUOTE>
It's not about the sound, it's about the response.
I have done the same with a Shires I used to play- it was much more resonant with the slide lock off. Could people hear that? Probably not, but I liked playing it that way more.
- Kbiggs
- Posts: 1768
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
[quote="Burgerbob"]
It's not about the sound, it's about the response.[/quote]
I used to think removing the rubber slide bumper was B.S. Then I heard about a teacher who insisted on removing his students’ slide bumpers, and I thought that too was B.S. Then the slide bumper on my bass started falling off—it’s the wrong size. After trying to make it stay on, I gave up, and noticed that I liked the response more without the bumper.
I think that too often people dismiss perception as “just B.S.” Yes, it’s a psycholigical phenomenon, but that doesn’t make it any less real. After all, the placebo effect is real.
It's not about the sound, it's about the response.[/quote]
I used to think removing the rubber slide bumper was B.S. Then I heard about a teacher who insisted on removing his students’ slide bumpers, and I thought that too was B.S. Then the slide bumper on my bass started falling off—it’s the wrong size. After trying to make it stay on, I gave up, and noticed that I liked the response more without the bumper.
I think that too often people dismiss perception as “just B.S.” Yes, it’s a psycholigical phenomenon, but that doesn’t make it any less real. After all, the placebo effect is real.
- mrdeacon
- Posts: 1225
- Joined: May 08, 2018
One of the weirdest things I've found that makes a difference is... on horns with removable lead pipes making sure the lead pipe is clocked in the correct spot.
I swear that my BrassArk seamed pipe plays better when the seam is at 12 O'clock. I've found the same difference with pulled pipes too.
Obviously, this point is moot if you've got threaded pipes.
I swear that my BrassArk seamed pipe plays better when the seam is at 12 O'clock. I've found the same difference with pulled pipes too.
Obviously, this point is moot if you've got threaded pipes.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
I am very tempted to buy that... 50B2 converted to inline on a tight budget, maybe?
I also need to post my current horns here.
I also need to post my current horns here.
- Finetales
- Posts: 1482
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
That 50AF3 at NAMM might be the best 50 I've played. The other contender is a stock 50A3 a college friend has that KILLED. The 2 different school-owned 50B3Os (one with the 10.5" bell) I learned bass on in high school were fine to my recollection, but I had nothing to compare them to. At this point I think the only other good 50 I've played was a certain forum member's in a certain parking garage. But I haven't played many...I'm a Conn man.
[quote="Burgerbob"]I am very tempted to buy that... 50B2 converted to inline on a tight budget, maybe?[/quote]
I immediately thought of you when I saw that listing this morning.
[quote="Burgerbob"]I am very tempted to buy that... 50B2 converted to inline on a tight budget, maybe?[/quote]
I immediately thought of you when I saw that listing this morning.
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
I currently have 3 Bach 50s, like an idiot. Thankfully, all three of them are the best 50s I have owned in one way or another.

The gold bell instrument on the left has been modified with Shires rotors (was a stock 50B3OG). In stock form it wasn't a bad horn, but wasn't one that I especially wanted to play. Now it is a commercial monster of a bass trombone, with a fat, dense, projecting sound that blends up to smaller instruments. It's also ridiculously easy to play with the fastest response of any Bach that I've seen.
The middle horn is my Meinlschmidt section. .615 rotors!! This horn is made to play in an orchestra, and makes a large, consistent sound with a crazy open blow. I have an un-cut Corp bell and a cut Corp bell, both in yellow. The un-cut bell is lighter, very responsive, and sounds great. The cut bell started out the same weight, so now is a bit heavier, a bit slower to respond, and plays better louder. If I don't know what the gig is, this the horn I bring.
Lastly is my "new" Corp 50B, all stock minus a cut tuning slide from a previous owner. This is my 5th single 50 and by far the best in all respects. I'm even saying that with the stock slide, which I usually can't say- the two above horns are played with Edwards and Shires slides. Big, vintage sound, fast response, every range works, huge pedals... Only thing it has against it is 1. only one valve and 2. the balance. I have a counterweight on the way. Still not sure what to do with this one!
If I could, I would mash all three into the same instrument and be happy forever.

The gold bell instrument on the left has been modified with Shires rotors (was a stock 50B3OG). In stock form it wasn't a bad horn, but wasn't one that I especially wanted to play. Now it is a commercial monster of a bass trombone, with a fat, dense, projecting sound that blends up to smaller instruments. It's also ridiculously easy to play with the fastest response of any Bach that I've seen.
The middle horn is my Meinlschmidt section. .615 rotors!! This horn is made to play in an orchestra, and makes a large, consistent sound with a crazy open blow. I have an un-cut Corp bell and a cut Corp bell, both in yellow. The un-cut bell is lighter, very responsive, and sounds great. The cut bell started out the same weight, so now is a bit heavier, a bit slower to respond, and plays better louder. If I don't know what the gig is, this the horn I bring.
Lastly is my "new" Corp 50B, all stock minus a cut tuning slide from a previous owner. This is my 5th single 50 and by far the best in all respects. I'm even saying that with the stock slide, which I usually can't say- the two above horns are played with Edwards and Shires slides. Big, vintage sound, fast response, every range works, huge pedals... Only thing it has against it is 1. only one valve and 2. the balance. I have a counterweight on the way. Still not sure what to do with this one!
If I could, I would mash all three into the same instrument and be happy forever.
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
Nice horns!
- sf105
- Posts: 433
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
The best 50 I ever heard was Nev Roberts' at the Halle. It must have been one of the first they made and weighed a ton (he once woke up with a locked left arm after a day of Carmina Burana). I had a good one for a while but switched to Conn because I liked the sound better.
- davebb
- Posts: 64
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="Burgerbob"]I currently have 3 Bach 50s, like an idiot. Thankfully, all three of them are the best 50s I have owned in one way or another.[/quote]
Sounds like a great subject for a comparison video... :good:
Sounds like a great subject for a comparison video... :good:
- fwbassbone
- Posts: 131
- Joined: Apr 07, 2018
The best 50 I ever played belongs to a friend. It is a very early Elkhart 50B single silver plated. The best 50 I ever owned was a late 60's Elkhart double that John Haynor split and ported the valves on in the late 80's. 9 1/2 inch bell and very live. Wish I wouldn't have sold that one and wish my friend would sell me the single.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
Yesterday, I caught up with a friend who had recently acquired an Elkhart Conn 62h, and wanted to try a few leadpipes. So I dragged out the box from the spare room, and we played around.
We tried a Bach 50 pipe in the Conn, which was a surprisingly good fit. My friend asked "How does this pipe go in your Bach?" Hmm, not sure, it's probably been 5 years since I've played with pipes (and settled on a Kanstul 169) let's find out!
Duh, it worked really well! Quite a bit bigger sounding than the 169 pipe, a little more linear in terms of dynamics, and definitely capable of more volume. And to think I'd written that pipe off many years ago! Shows how our playing changes over time.
Anyhow, I ordered a Brassark MV50 pipe yesterday, so look forward to seeing how that works out too.
My hope, in the new year, is to do a valve conversion on this horn. Dependent Meinlschmidt rotors is the plan. The hardest part is deciding on a valve wrap. I prefer the valve tubing all on the outside of the horn to maximise clearance around my head and neck, and very few current rotor designs (Yamaha 822, Getzen 1062) are set up that way.
Andrew
We tried a Bach 50 pipe in the Conn, which was a surprisingly good fit. My friend asked "How does this pipe go in your Bach?" Hmm, not sure, it's probably been 5 years since I've played with pipes (and settled on a Kanstul 169) let's find out!
Duh, it worked really well! Quite a bit bigger sounding than the 169 pipe, a little more linear in terms of dynamics, and definitely capable of more volume. And to think I'd written that pipe off many years ago! Shows how our playing changes over time.
Anyhow, I ordered a Brassark MV50 pipe yesterday, so look forward to seeing how that works out too.
My hope, in the new year, is to do a valve conversion on this horn. Dependent Meinlschmidt rotors is the plan. The hardest part is deciding on a valve wrap. I prefer the valve tubing all on the outside of the horn to maximise clearance around my head and neck, and very few current rotor designs (Yamaha 822, Getzen 1062) are set up that way.
Andrew
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
I sold my 50B, thankfully. It was a really strangely good single 50... I think the best I have had, and the best I have played. But I need another one like I need another hole in my head.
I have since swapped the slides on my two double-valve 50s. I had been using the single bore Edwards V on the gold bell horn, and my dual bore Shires on the yellow bell horn. It seemed sensible... the lighter, snappier horn gets the smaller slide, the more orchestrally-oriented instrument gets the dual bore.
On a whim I swapped them and voila! The tight, insanely-slotted characteristic of the gold-bell Shires valve bell section is now much tamer and more even. Legato is now possible, which was really fairly difficult before. The orchestral horn got much easier to play in all respects and gained some more core to the sound.
I have used the gold-bell horn a few times now at work and in reading bands. It feels really, really good in a section, seems to punch up rather than down (matching tenors very well) and has lots of core to the sound. It's not ultra-even, below the staff it likes to have a little more color.
The orchestral horn is honestly on the chopping block... I used it recently for a Schumann 3 gig with a smaller orchestra. It was approximately 200% too much instrument for the job and took a lot of finesse to sound good in that situation. It's capable of some of the loudest louds I have ever found in a bass trombone, but even those come at the cost of a lot of air. We'll see about this one.
I have since swapped the slides on my two double-valve 50s. I had been using the single bore Edwards V on the gold bell horn, and my dual bore Shires on the yellow bell horn. It seemed sensible... the lighter, snappier horn gets the smaller slide, the more orchestrally-oriented instrument gets the dual bore.
On a whim I swapped them and voila! The tight, insanely-slotted characteristic of the gold-bell Shires valve bell section is now much tamer and more even. Legato is now possible, which was really fairly difficult before. The orchestral horn got much easier to play in all respects and gained some more core to the sound.
I have used the gold-bell horn a few times now at work and in reading bands. It feels really, really good in a section, seems to punch up rather than down (matching tenors very well) and has lots of core to the sound. It's not ultra-even, below the staff it likes to have a little more color.
The orchestral horn is honestly on the chopping block... I used it recently for a Schumann 3 gig with a smaller orchestra. It was approximately 200% too much instrument for the job and took a lot of finesse to sound good in that situation. It's capable of some of the loudest louds I have ever found in a bass trombone, but even those come at the cost of a lot of air. We'll see about this one.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
[quote="Burgerbob"]The orchestral horn is honestly on the chopping block... I used it recently for a Schumann 3 gig with a smaller orchestra. It was approximately 200% too much instrument for the job and took a lot of finesse to sound good in that situation. It's capable of some of the loudest louds I have ever found in a bass trombone, but even those come at the cost of a lot of air. We'll see about this one.[/quote]
If you can't scale it down for a gig like that, is it really a good horn? A good, middle of the road Bach will keep up with most of the big boys anyway.
I had an Edwards setup like that for a little while, but unless I was cranking it, it was just an overly warm, boring sounding horn. Not to mention heavy...
Andrew
If you can't scale it down for a gig like that, is it really a good horn? A good, middle of the road Bach will keep up with most of the big boys anyway.
I had an Edwards setup like that for a little while, but unless I was cranking it, it was just an overly warm, boring sounding horn. Not to mention heavy...
Andrew
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
Yup, that's what I'm running into. My other horn can do almost everything the orchestral horn can except soft tissue damage to violists. May be listing those valves for sale soon and trying something else with those bells.
- mrdeacon
- Posts: 1225
- Joined: May 08, 2018
[quote="Burgerbob"]Yup, that's what I'm running into. My other horn can do almost everything the orchestral horn can except soft tissue damage to violists. May be listing those valves for sale soon and trying something else with those bells.[/quote]
Those valves play stupid good! I can understand your issue with them.
Let me know if you do decide to sell them. I light be interested :biggrin: I still got that 60h valve section that could use some new valves.
Those valves play stupid good! I can understand your issue with them.
Let me know if you do decide to sell them. I light be interested :biggrin: I still got that 60h valve section that could use some new valves.
- whitbey
- Posts: 654
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I have a Bach 50 from the 60's with original dependent valves. It does supper soft and big and loud as one would need.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
My plan is starting to come together…


- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
My Bach 50 adventure is over for the moment. I posted it already, but here's all the bits:
Magic Corp 50 bell
not-quite-as-magic Corp 50 screwbell
Edwards single bore V slide
Shires B62/78
Seamed copper Hoelle tuning slide
Olsen axials, lightweight valve wrap, built by Benn Hansson, Greenhoe fittings
It's by far the best bass trombone I've ever owned. Currently it's being played in full orchestral setup- uncut bell, dual bore slide, Shires #2 leadpipe, but all the other configurations work amazingly well too.


Magic Corp 50 bell
not-quite-as-magic Corp 50 screwbell
Edwards single bore V slide
Shires B62/78
Seamed copper Hoelle tuning slide
Olsen axials, lightweight valve wrap, built by Benn Hansson, Greenhoe fittings
It's by far the best bass trombone I've ever owned. Currently it's being played in full orchestral setup- uncut bell, dual bore slide, Shires #2 leadpipe, but all the other configurations work amazingly well too.


- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
Not much Bach 50 left there, Aidan!
Do you have a Bach tuning slide for that setup too? If so, how do they compare?
Andrew
Do you have a Bach tuning slide for that setup too? If so, how do they compare?
Andrew
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
[quote="TheBoneRanger"]Not much Bach 50 left there, Aidan!
Do you have a Bach tuning slide for that setup too? If so, how do they compare?
Andrew[/quote]
The leadpipe currently in the Edwards slide is a new 50 leadpipe, so technically I have two parts!
I don't have any stock tuning slides, since this setup is reversed. I did have a setup with a stock tuning slide and this Hoelle before it was reversed. Overall, the Hoelle was more colorful, better response, better high range... just overall better, so I decided to make it one of the centerpieces of this build. Especially with the reversed leg, it has a really amazing high range, only matched by the top Edwards and Shires basses IMO.
Do you have a Bach tuning slide for that setup too? If so, how do they compare?
Andrew[/quote]
The leadpipe currently in the Edwards slide is a new 50 leadpipe, so technically I have two parts!
I don't have any stock tuning slides, since this setup is reversed. I did have a setup with a stock tuning slide and this Hoelle before it was reversed. Overall, the Hoelle was more colorful, better response, better high range... just overall better, so I decided to make it one of the centerpieces of this build. Especially with the reversed leg, it has a really amazing high range, only matched by the top Edwards and Shires basses IMO.
- btone
- Posts: 125
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I acquired my first Bach 50, a 1975 Bach 50B2 in 1986 from an older musician friend who had bought it new; after borrowing it for a few weeks I traded him my first bass, a Holton 180, and a number of Ben Franklins for it. I was overjoyed by his accepting my offer because I really loved its weighty, warm, rich sound, and excellent response and flexibility. It was a wonderful horn for Bach cello suites. In the early 90’s I traded a refinished MV Bach 36 for a 50B3 but even though it looked and played fine it lacked the deep, rich sound of the 50B2, so after keeping it for a backup for years I eventually sold it. I played the 50B2 in orchestra for 14 years before visiting Edwards in 2000 and coming back with a complete new Thayer valve tenor for brass quintet and a dual bore bass slide. I had disappointingly been unable to find a bass bell anywhere near as warm as my Bach so I used the Edwards slide with my 50B2 bell for several more years. The slide was definitely an upgrade, making a bigger sound and improved low range. I had stripped the lacquer from the bell flare around 1990, which had helped free up the blow and made playing loud easier, but I still found the double trigger range frustratingly stuffy. Around 2004 I picked up a used 20 gauge, unlacquered yellow brass Edwards 990 bell and a single Edwards Thayer valve section from Jim Bermann, which I also used with my Edwards dual bore slide. I enjoyed the light weight, open blow, and big sound but still had the Bach sound in my head. In 2013, I bought a used O.E. Thayer inline valve section off Trombone Forum and Eric Edwards installed it on my original 1975 bell. It was more free blowing and a bit less extra dark chocolatey thereafter, but plays bigger and more open, especially in the trigger range, is resonant and still sounds very good. In 2016 I had the good fortune to find a 1978 Corporation 50B on eBay that I have enjoyed a lot and used quite a bit. As I have gotten older I really appreciate a light instrument. It came with a lot of spots on the bell like my 50B2 previously had, so I felt reassured in bidding for what may have discouraged some other bidders. It was very resonant and free blowing, felt good in all ranges, with a nice singing sound and other Bach qualities I liked. Not as heavy and dark sounding as the 50B2 had been, though. It strikes me as a bit Conn-like in a user-friendly kind of way, sometimes making me think of how it feels to play my 88h. It vibrates in your hands. I sent it to Eric Edwards, who stripped the bell, modified some bracing on the bell flare, and did some slide work. I love the slide and as a concession to the aging process and an attempt to make my 50 blow less dissimilar to my 42, stopped using the dual bore slide. I had wanted to remove one or both upper diamond braces, and having seen how Jim Bermann had his braced, similar to a Conn or Holton, went with that and it worked out fine, moderating a tendency the bell had to ring on a loud high “A” after the first diamond brace had been removed. My inline Thayer/1975 Bach bell setup has been more recently upgraded by James Baker of Custom Brass in Birmingham resetting the Thayer valves, greatly improving their efficiency. James Baker also expertly rebuilt my 1978 Bach’s “goldilocks” slide, which plays well on just about anything, which from my experience is not to be expected. It works especially well on the 1975 Bach 50 bell/ inline Thayer setup and my 1996 Shires 1YT7 bell with dependent Shires Thayer valve section. I had also briefly owned another fine 1978 50B after my first one, a fine sounding, more open blowing specimen with a dark sound and great big low range, which now belongs to our principal trombone, who would like to put Thayers on it. When I owned that horn, I (purely by happenstance) had two 1978 42B’s as well as two 1978 50B’s at the same time. All good Bachs. I’m down to one of each now after selling the other 42B to a student. I hope I haven’t let this thread idle to long before posting, but I just got around to finishing my reading it. It’s interesting how addictive the Bach sound is, with both the 42’s and 50’s drawing many of us back after trying more “perfected” instruments. I have great appreciation for the gifted techs whose skills help keep our Bachs in contention. In fact I have also become rather attached to my 36B lately, after finding a mouthpiece that makes it more suitable for me to use in brass quintet, and hope to see it improved too.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
I’ve been talking about my plans for this build for a number of years now, but it’s finally come to fruition.


- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
The current collection...
Custom "Benn Monster"
Corp 50T3
50B3OG "Bires," now with Shires Q tuning slide (got this one back!)
50K3LG
Plus another two bells... 3 tuning slides... 4 slides... 2 or so valve sections in various states...
I'm not addicted, don't @ me!
But really, I don't need all of these. Someone buy a couple.

Custom "Benn Monster"
Corp 50T3
50B3OG "Bires," now with Shires Q tuning slide (got this one back!)
50K3LG
Plus another two bells... 3 tuning slides... 4 slides... 2 or so valve sections in various states...
I'm not addicted, don't @ me!
But really, I don't need all of these. Someone buy a couple.

- ithinknot
- Posts: 1339
- Joined: Jul 24, 2020
[quote="Burgerbob"]50B3OG "Bires," now with Shires Q tuning slide (got this one back!)[/quote]
Having known it both ways, how much of a difference does the Shires TS make?
Having known it both ways, how much of a difference does the Shires TS make?
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
[quote="ithinknot"]<QUOTE author="Burgerbob" post_id="205023" time="1679082713" user_id="3131">
50B3OG "Bires," now with Shires Q tuning slide (got this one back!)[/quote]
Having known it both ways, how much of a difference does the Shires TS make?
</QUOTE>
Honestly, kind of liked it before. I'd like to see what a full fat Shires TS would be like, and there are some things to be worked in general with that section. Right now it's a mid range beast- insane response, awesome sound, but it gets harder to play down low. Still works but more effort than it should be.
50B3OG "Bires," now with Shires Q tuning slide (got this one back!)[/quote]
Having known it both ways, how much of a difference does the Shires TS make?
</QUOTE>
Honestly, kind of liked it before. I'd like to see what a full fat Shires TS would be like, and there are some things to be worked in general with that section. Right now it's a mid range beast- insane response, awesome sound, but it gets harder to play down low. Still works but more effort than it should be.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
A couple more pics of my latest build.
[url=https://ibb.co/th1vH1G]
[url=https://ibb.co/9wJts3h]
This horn came to me as a mid-60’s single valve, with a slide that had new tubes. I eventually put an old (allegedly Mt Vernon) dependent valve section on it for some more facility.
The brief for this build was to get the valve tubing on the outside of the horn, for my own ergonomic reasons, and to make a great sounding horn much easier to play. Many horns with valve tubing on the inside I simply can’t play, and in its previous iteration, the horn was tricky to play, but with a compelling sound.
We went for a classic design, and Meinlschmidt Open Flow valves.
I’ve given it a good shake down over the last few days. It currently has a press-fit (keeping it old school) Brass Ark MV50 yellow brass pipe installed but a gold/seamed version of the same pipe is a little more dense and authoritative, and a Kanstul 169 pipe really makes for an immediate response and slims down the sound somewhat.
I really love the classic, old school lines. My tech did a terrific job making it clean and simple. And it blows really predictably now, with clean articulations and lots of colour. The slide even resonates in my hands now like most modern Shires horns do.
Feels like we nailed the brief with this build. I’m looking forward to getting to know it over the coming months.
Andrew


This horn came to me as a mid-60’s single valve, with a slide that had new tubes. I eventually put an old (allegedly Mt Vernon) dependent valve section on it for some more facility.
The brief for this build was to get the valve tubing on the outside of the horn, for my own ergonomic reasons, and to make a great sounding horn much easier to play. Many horns with valve tubing on the inside I simply can’t play, and in its previous iteration, the horn was tricky to play, but with a compelling sound.
We went for a classic design, and Meinlschmidt Open Flow valves.
I’ve given it a good shake down over the last few days. It currently has a press-fit (keeping it old school) Brass Ark MV50 yellow brass pipe installed but a gold/seamed version of the same pipe is a little more dense and authoritative, and a Kanstul 169 pipe really makes for an immediate response and slims down the sound somewhat.
I really love the classic, old school lines. My tech did a terrific job making it clean and simple. And it blows really predictably now, with clean articulations and lots of colour. The slide even resonates in my hands now like most modern Shires horns do.
Feels like we nailed the brief with this build. I’m looking forward to getting to know it over the coming months.
Andrew
- LIBrassCo
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Feb 24, 2019
[quote="TheBoneRanger"]A couple more pics of my latest build.
[url=https://ibb.co/th1vH1G]
[url=https://ibb.co/9wJts3h]
This horn came to me as a mid-60’s single valve, with a slide that had new tubes. I eventually put an old (allegedly Mt Vernon) dependent valve section on it for some more facility.
The brief for this build was to get the valve tubing on the outside of the horn, for my own ergonomic reasons, and to make a great sounding horn much easier to play. Many horns with valve tubing on the inside I simply can’t play, and in its previous iteration, the horn was tricky to play, but with a compelling sound.
We went for a classic design, and Meinlschmidt Open Flow valves.
I’ve given it a good shake down over the last few days. It currently has a press-fit (keeping it old school) Brass Ark MV50 yellow brass pipe installed but a gold/seamed version of the same pipe is a little more dense and authoritative, and a Kanstul 169 pipe really makes for an immediate response and slims down the sound somewhat.
I really love the classic, old school lines. My tech did a terrific job making it clean and simple. And it blows really predictably now, with clean articulations and lots of colour. The slide even resonates in my hands now like most modern Shires horns do.
Feels like we nailed the brief with this build. I’m looking forward to getting to know it over the coming months.
Andrew[/quote]
Nice looking horn.


This horn came to me as a mid-60’s single valve, with a slide that had new tubes. I eventually put an old (allegedly Mt Vernon) dependent valve section on it for some more facility.
The brief for this build was to get the valve tubing on the outside of the horn, for my own ergonomic reasons, and to make a great sounding horn much easier to play. Many horns with valve tubing on the inside I simply can’t play, and in its previous iteration, the horn was tricky to play, but with a compelling sound.
We went for a classic design, and Meinlschmidt Open Flow valves.
I’ve given it a good shake down over the last few days. It currently has a press-fit (keeping it old school) Brass Ark MV50 yellow brass pipe installed but a gold/seamed version of the same pipe is a little more dense and authoritative, and a Kanstul 169 pipe really makes for an immediate response and slims down the sound somewhat.
I really love the classic, old school lines. My tech did a terrific job making it clean and simple. And it blows really predictably now, with clean articulations and lots of colour. The slide even resonates in my hands now like most modern Shires horns do.
Feels like we nailed the brief with this build. I’m looking forward to getting to know it over the coming months.
Andrew[/quote]
Nice looking horn.
- dlbucko
- Posts: 3
- Joined: May 10, 2023
I recently bought a beautiful 50T3 which I’m loving, I’m playing it with an Edwards B-DBN slide and it sounds monstrous. I’m having too much fun playing it.
But - far out, I hate the weird metal paddle for the Gb valve. It seems super short and in a weirdly low position compared with other manufacturers. My old Edwards was a lot more comfortable. Does anyone have any experience with having that trigger assembly modified, moved or replaced to make it more ergonomic?
But - far out, I hate the weird metal paddle for the Gb valve. It seems super short and in a weirdly low position compared with other manufacturers. My old Edwards was a lot more comfortable. Does anyone have any experience with having that trigger assembly modified, moved or replaced to make it more ergonomic?
- YooperHorn
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Mar 11, 2022
In 1976, I was in high school and my trombone teacher was David Waters of the Houston Symphony. He told me about a jazzer who was selling his Bach 50b with a Larry Minick 2nd independent trigger for $700. More importantly, a huge stack of bass trombone sheet music came with it. I bought it. I was one of the few in high school and college that had a double independent trigger horn. It sounded great and I liked the Minick trigger too. Truthfully, I didn't use the 2nd trigger much because the trombone literature available at the time didn't really require it.
I eventually walked away from trombone life for a while and sold it. It was a great horn.
I eventually walked away from trombone life for a while and sold it. It was a great horn.
- jonathanharker
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Aug 14, 2022
[quote="Burgerbob"]The current collection...
50K3LG
[/quote]
I got a Bach 50K as my first bass in the 1990s, which a friend now owns and has since converted to two Thayer valves. I miss it - it sounded beautiful, and the K valve wasn't too bad either; better than the standard rotor at least.
How do you find the K3 valves, compared to Thayers, Hagmanns, or other rotaries?
50K3LG
[/quote]I got a Bach 50K as my first bass in the 1990s, which a friend now owns and has since converted to two Thayer valves. I miss it - it sounded beautiful, and the K valve wasn't too bad either; better than the standard rotor at least.
How do you find the K3 valves, compared to Thayers, Hagmanns, or other rotaries?
- elmsandr
- Posts: 1373
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="jonathanharker"]….
How do you find the K3 valves, compared to Thayers, Hagmanns, or other rotaries?[/quote]
You usually have to look under a rock or in a dark alley with cast off instruments from other junkies.
/places finger to earpiece
Oh, I understand now you meant playing characteristics. I’d love to have a set for my bass. On the 42.. it’s fine. A little sluggish, but very even and a good sound throughout the range.
Cheers,
Andy
How do you find the K3 valves, compared to Thayers, Hagmanns, or other rotaries?[/quote]
You usually have to look under a rock or in a dark alley with cast off instruments from other junkies.
/places finger to earpiece
Oh, I understand now you meant playing characteristics. I’d love to have a set for my bass. On the 42.. it’s fine. A little sluggish, but very even and a good sound throughout the range.
Cheers,
Andy
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
[quote="jonathanharker"]
I got a Bach 50K as my first bass in the 1990s, which a friend now owns and has since converted to two Thayer valves. I miss it - it sounded beautiful, and the K valve wasn't too bad either; better than the standard rotor at least.
How do you find the K3 valves, compared to Thayers, Hagmanns, or other rotaries?[/quote]
I also have one on my 42- I need to post that project, actually. On the 42 it's really just great... it's a little slower, a little heavier than most other valves, but it plays very well and most importantly- sounds great.
On the basses (I actually have owned two of these 50K3s recently, I'm selling the one in the picture above as we speak), they are a little more temperamental. They are better than stock Bach rotors (which is why they were designed and sold, after all), but compared to most other things they fall short in a category or three. The one big claim to fame that they have over pretty much every valve I can think of is that they sound preternaturally even. The blow is NOT even, but the sound that comes out is very hard to distinguish from the open horn- on the GL bell in the picture, you basically cannot tell the difference between an F# :line4: on the slide in 5th position and on the Gb valve in 1st position. Again... they don't play the same, like you might expect out of a good axial, but even axials impart more of themselves on the sound than K valves do. Is that worth the weight and speed of the valves? For me, no, not really, but they do end up being some really amazing sounding horns.
A single 50K, set up well, would be a really amazing sounding bass, though probably a bit useless :pant:
I got a Bach 50K as my first bass in the 1990s, which a friend now owns and has since converted to two Thayer valves. I miss it - it sounded beautiful, and the K valve wasn't too bad either; better than the standard rotor at least.
How do you find the K3 valves, compared to Thayers, Hagmanns, or other rotaries?[/quote]
I also have one on my 42- I need to post that project, actually. On the 42 it's really just great... it's a little slower, a little heavier than most other valves, but it plays very well and most importantly- sounds great.
On the basses (I actually have owned two of these 50K3s recently, I'm selling the one in the picture above as we speak), they are a little more temperamental. They are better than stock Bach rotors (which is why they were designed and sold, after all), but compared to most other things they fall short in a category or three. The one big claim to fame that they have over pretty much every valve I can think of is that they sound preternaturally even. The blow is NOT even, but the sound that comes out is very hard to distinguish from the open horn- on the GL bell in the picture, you basically cannot tell the difference between an F# :line4: on the slide in 5th position and on the Gb valve in 1st position. Again... they don't play the same, like you might expect out of a good axial, but even axials impart more of themselves on the sound than K valves do. Is that worth the weight and speed of the valves? For me, no, not really, but they do end up being some really amazing sounding horns.
A single 50K, set up well, would be a really amazing sounding bass, though probably a bit useless :pant:
- CuriousKen
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Jul 04, 2021
My first Bach was their first independent open wrap 50B3. I bought it sight unseen from Brasswinds when I was in college. My buddy had just bought one of the new Benge 290s and we swapped horns for a semester. I recall the horns being surprisingly similar. I don't remember too much about the horn other than it sounded like a Bach and at the time I thought it played really open because of the new open wrap. I had just started doubling on bass, so didn't really understand that the wrap didn't affect the feel all that much (no thanks to brass makers' marketing efforts at the time).
Anyway, my current Bach is a late 80s corp era 50B that I picked up from forum member Joe Stanko. It was and is the best playing Bach I've ever experienced. My first bass was my school's Elkhart 72H and that is the imprint for for my sense of how a horn should feel. I had an Elkhart 72H when I picked up the 50B from Joe, but ended up moving the 72H because the Bach played better.
The horn is unique in that the bell started out as an "L" bell, 10.5 inches. Joe had it cut to 9.5, the theory being the 10.5 bells were made from the same blanks as the 9.5, so it would be a thinner bell overall. He also had a non-standard but factory "O" slide. I'm not sure what is different about the "O" slide, I'm guessing the leadpipe. It's a very open playing slide.
Joe also sold me an unattached Bach valve of the same era already configured as a D valve. Benn Hansson did the work attaching the valve. In the process he sent the valves to Osmun music for their opening process. The bell is also detachable. The result is a fantastic playing and sounding horn that is all Bach. Surprisingly, the thinner bell doesn't yield a bright sounding Bach. It's warm and just sounds like a great sounding Bach horn. The bell, however, does start to sizzle fairly quickly in the valve register, which for me is a plus (I likes the sizzle). It's even in all registers and the O slide is also easy in the high register.
I've played two different Doug Yeo YBL 622s, and now own one, and side by side, if the grips didn't feel slightly different I couldn't tell my Bach from the 622. The feel/blow and sound is nearly identical with a slight edge to the Bach in articulations in the middle of the staff (that O slide again).
I picked up the 622 because I was feeling the need for a backup. I'm now talking with Graham Middleton about having an independent valve section built for the Bach so I'll have those needs covered as well.
<ATTACHMENT filename="Bach 50B2 conversion.jpg" index="0">[attachment=0]Bach 50B2 conversion.jpg</ATTACHMENT><ATTACHMENT filename="Bach 50B2 conversion 2.jpg" index="1">[attachment=1]Bach 50B2 conversion 2.jpg</ATTACHMENT>
Anyway, my current Bach is a late 80s corp era 50B that I picked up from forum member Joe Stanko. It was and is the best playing Bach I've ever experienced. My first bass was my school's Elkhart 72H and that is the imprint for for my sense of how a horn should feel. I had an Elkhart 72H when I picked up the 50B from Joe, but ended up moving the 72H because the Bach played better.
The horn is unique in that the bell started out as an "L" bell, 10.5 inches. Joe had it cut to 9.5, the theory being the 10.5 bells were made from the same blanks as the 9.5, so it would be a thinner bell overall. He also had a non-standard but factory "O" slide. I'm not sure what is different about the "O" slide, I'm guessing the leadpipe. It's a very open playing slide.
Joe also sold me an unattached Bach valve of the same era already configured as a D valve. Benn Hansson did the work attaching the valve. In the process he sent the valves to Osmun music for their opening process. The bell is also detachable. The result is a fantastic playing and sounding horn that is all Bach. Surprisingly, the thinner bell doesn't yield a bright sounding Bach. It's warm and just sounds like a great sounding Bach horn. The bell, however, does start to sizzle fairly quickly in the valve register, which for me is a plus (I likes the sizzle). It's even in all registers and the O slide is also easy in the high register.
I've played two different Doug Yeo YBL 622s, and now own one, and side by side, if the grips didn't feel slightly different I couldn't tell my Bach from the 622. The feel/blow and sound is nearly identical with a slight edge to the Bach in articulations in the middle of the staff (that O slide again).
I picked up the 622 because I was feeling the need for a backup. I'm now talking with Graham Middleton about having an independent valve section built for the Bach so I'll have those needs covered as well.
<ATTACHMENT filename="Bach 50B2 conversion.jpg" index="0">
- Bowie
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Jan 24, 2024
Stumbled here thanks to a google search… My Bach is in getting a service, it’s been great to read and hear all your stories :) you are making me miss it very much.
I’m feeling sad and sorry that it’s going to cost me a bank. My slide is toast, bell has been banged up to many times, the close wrapped rotors I’ve always found annoying unless I was super fit, (it’s a 50b3, maybe late 70’s early 80’s) but it’s the horn I learnt on and therefore, the most important horn in my life.
Im worried there will be some hard decisions about it soon, but hearing about all your Frankenstein-bachs, I’m comforted knowing there may be some life let in it yet :)
Cheers,
Bowie
I’m feeling sad and sorry that it’s going to cost me a bank. My slide is toast, bell has been banged up to many times, the close wrapped rotors I’ve always found annoying unless I was super fit, (it’s a 50b3, maybe late 70’s early 80’s) but it’s the horn I learnt on and therefore, the most important horn in my life.
Im worried there will be some hard decisions about it soon, but hearing about all your Frankenstein-bachs, I’m comforted knowing there may be some life let in it yet :)
Cheers,
Bowie
- atopper333
- Posts: 377
- Joined: Mar 09, 2022
[quote="Bowie"]Stumbled here thanks to a google search… My Bach is in getting a service, it’s been great to read and hear all your stories :) you are making me miss it very much.
I’m feeling sad and sorry that it’s going to cost me a bank. My slide is toast, bell has been banged up to many times, the close wrapped rotors I’ve always found annoying unless I was super fit, (it’s a 50b3, maybe late 70’s early 80’s) but it’s the horn I learnt on and therefore, the most important horn in my life.
Im worried there will be some hard decisions about it soon, but hearing about all your Frankenstein-bachs, I’m comforted knowing there may be some life let in it yet :)
Cheers,
Bowie[/quote]
It could still be okay, there are lots of slides out there, and lots of parts…
Also, I’ve had a tech work an excellent repair on an 88H bell which was crumpled with significant damage just in front of the brace. He was able to make it straight and suggested a mild scratch brush finish to avoid taking much material off of the bell given the possible changes when straightening the bell. It came back and played wonderfully and looked pretty good as well. Here were the pictures of the results.
Don’t worry to much yet, we have some truly gifted techs out there!
I’m feeling sad and sorry that it’s going to cost me a bank. My slide is toast, bell has been banged up to many times, the close wrapped rotors I’ve always found annoying unless I was super fit, (it’s a 50b3, maybe late 70’s early 80’s) but it’s the horn I learnt on and therefore, the most important horn in my life.
Im worried there will be some hard decisions about it soon, but hearing about all your Frankenstein-bachs, I’m comforted knowing there may be some life let in it yet :)
Cheers,
Bowie[/quote]
It could still be okay, there are lots of slides out there, and lots of parts…
Also, I’ve had a tech work an excellent repair on an 88H bell which was crumpled with significant damage just in front of the brace. He was able to make it straight and suggested a mild scratch brush finish to avoid taking much material off of the bell given the possible changes when straightening the bell. It came back and played wonderfully and looked pretty good as well. Here were the pictures of the results.
Don’t worry to much yet, we have some truly gifted techs out there!
- Bowie
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Jan 24, 2024
....Just head back from the mechanic. Went in as the D trigger fell off the cross brace, time for a service.
Doesn't apear to be a lost cause :)
They will get the D trigger back on, give it a service and start a list of what needs to do to make it new. They are actually brave enough to offer they don't do a lot of that work, but here's the number of the chap who will. Appreciate that.
Bragging repair pictures in 2 weeks once its back. ..
Until then I best add a Bach Story..
I picked up a 50b3 in a community band. I was playing a single trigger Yamaha something or other with one of those Yeo bucket mouthpiece things. I thought I was cool sh1t, my sound was bright, very bright, and naive. The band I was now in valued deep burgundy orchestral tones and this kid with a yamaha would not do. The Bach was owned by the band, they bought it for a world tour back in the ~70's, the case was mostly falling apart, it had a tennis strap for a handle, and they were like here!
It felt 'effin enormous both physically and on the mouthpiece, I could barely make a sound out of the thing, Incidentally it wasn't until a summer camp a few years later spent playing BBb Tuba for a fortnight, that the Bach only then started to make sense.
After that I could do anything with instrument and I've had a great time being annoyed at it, and thanking it for forcing technique I'd otherwise take for granted.
Ah can't wait to get it back now :D
Doesn't apear to be a lost cause :)
They will get the D trigger back on, give it a service and start a list of what needs to do to make it new. They are actually brave enough to offer they don't do a lot of that work, but here's the number of the chap who will. Appreciate that.
Bragging repair pictures in 2 weeks once its back. ..
Until then I best add a Bach Story..
I picked up a 50b3 in a community band. I was playing a single trigger Yamaha something or other with one of those Yeo bucket mouthpiece things. I thought I was cool sh1t, my sound was bright, very bright, and naive. The band I was now in valued deep burgundy orchestral tones and this kid with a yamaha would not do. The Bach was owned by the band, they bought it for a world tour back in the ~70's, the case was mostly falling apart, it had a tennis strap for a handle, and they were like here!
It felt 'effin enormous both physically and on the mouthpiece, I could barely make a sound out of the thing, Incidentally it wasn't until a summer camp a few years later spent playing BBb Tuba for a fortnight, that the Bach only then started to make sense.
After that I could do anything with instrument and I've had a great time being annoyed at it, and thanking it for forcing technique I'd otherwise take for granted.
Ah can't wait to get it back now :D
- HawaiiTromboneGuy
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Sep 03, 2018
I don’t have it yet (held up by customs), but currently waiting to take delivery of this beauty.<EMOJI seq="1f440" tseq="1f440">👀</EMOJI>
- HawaiiTromboneGuy
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Sep 03, 2018
Here she is! Horn was purchased from Japan and the conversion was done by a shop there as well.
- JoeStanko
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Apr 11, 2018
Hmmm..ferrules aren’t original..knurled slide lock..not original. At some point, detailed photos of my Mt. Vernon 50B and the first 50B2 for comparison. Of course, Drew, if it’s a hit then that’s what is important. And obviously, Vincent and Peppy never used axials or anything inline.
Joe Stanko
Joe Stanko
- HawaiiTromboneGuy
- Posts: 1025
- Joined: Sep 03, 2018
[quote="JoeStanko"]Hmmm..ferrules aren’t original..knurled slide lock..not original. At some point, detailed photos of my Mt. Vernon 50B and the first 50B2 for comparison. Of course, Drew, if it’s a hit then that’s what is important. And obviously, Vincent and Peppy never used axials or anything inline.
Joe Stanko[/quote]
Hey Joe! Yes, from the translation of the ad and what they told me, the Thayers are from a Shires. Apparently the main tuning slide and outer slide tubes are original, however the inners and leadpipe are Shires. Slide crook they believe is from a Conn.
This was also their reply via email:
“Aloha,
The history of your instrument(Shires/NY Bach W-AX)is that a customer of our store originally had a NY Bach and S.E. Shires and asked a well-known workshop to modify and assemble it.
We were told that the customer liked Charles Vernon and wanted to change bell of Bach like him, so that's why he made those modifications.
However, we have an unusual customer who is mainly a double bass trombone player (although he also plays bass trombone, of course).
He likes the instrument very much, but he is used to large bells, so he regretfully had to let it go.
I hope this is helpful.
Best Regards,
JoyBrass”
Joe Stanko[/quote]
Hey Joe! Yes, from the translation of the ad and what they told me, the Thayers are from a Shires. Apparently the main tuning slide and outer slide tubes are original, however the inners and leadpipe are Shires. Slide crook they believe is from a Conn.
This was also their reply via email:
“Aloha,
The history of your instrument(Shires/NY Bach W-AX)is that a customer of our store originally had a NY Bach and S.E. Shires and asked a well-known workshop to modify and assemble it.
We were told that the customer liked Charles Vernon and wanted to change bell of Bach like him, so that's why he made those modifications.
However, we have an unusual customer who is mainly a double bass trombone player (although he also plays bass trombone, of course).
He likes the instrument very much, but he is used to large bells, so he regretfully had to let it go.
I hope this is helpful.
Best Regards,
JoyBrass”
- MahlerMusic
- Posts: 158
- Joined: May 07, 2019
How hard is it to find a dual bore Bach 50 slide (.562-.578)? Need a Bach because of the longer length.
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
They do not exist. There are rare Shires in L length, which I believe are still a tiny bit shorter than Bach length.
- Kbiggs
- Posts: 1768
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
My 50Bx. It started out as two horns: a 50BG and a 50B2. It’s now one horn with two bells and two slides.
I needed a bass for a gig, so I bought an old 50BG from a repair tech—it was his project horn. The G bell is early Elkhart. He also made a custom lightweight slide for it: yellow tubes, nickel crook, and no oversleeves. That combination, along with a silver leadpipe (I think it’s an Instrument Innovations (GR) plays really well for commercial and jazz stuff. Very quick response, dark at softer volumes, and bright at louder volumes.
The second horn I bought was a Corporation 50B2. The bell was smashed during transit, but a couple of techs have worked on it to straighten it out. It’s very light, but it plays very well—good core, very even response, very stable, good dynamic flexibility.
I’ve had a couple of techs work on it over the years: John Sandhagen, Benn Hanssen, and Graham Middleton. Sandhagen did the initial work to take the tubing from two different horns to create one valve unit, and make the valve section convertible. John also did the installation of Kanstul CR valves. A few years ago, I asked Graham to replace those with Instrument Innovations rotaries, and replace the levers. Benn has done stuff here and there—I honestly don’t remember what, although I’m pretty sure he does. They’ve each added their own bit of magic, as well. <span class="emoji" title=":wink:">😉</span>
I also have an assortment of leadpipes, some stock, some from Instrument Innovations. There might be one or two of unknown provenance. I usually play the stock 50 leadpipe in my standard weight slide, and occasionally a stock 50 with about 1/4” removed from the end.
I prefer the yellow bell, but lately I’ve been using the gold bell—most people in my neck of the woods use gold brass or red brass bells. It just seems to blend a wee bit better.
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_4313.jpeg" index="2">[attachment=2]IMG_4313.jpeg</ATTACHMENT>
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_4314.jpeg" index="1">[attachment=1]IMG_4314.jpeg</ATTACHMENT>
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_4315.jpeg" index="0">[attachment=0]IMG_4315.jpeg</ATTACHMENT>
I needed a bass for a gig, so I bought an old 50BG from a repair tech—it was his project horn. The G bell is early Elkhart. He also made a custom lightweight slide for it: yellow tubes, nickel crook, and no oversleeves. That combination, along with a silver leadpipe (I think it’s an Instrument Innovations (GR) plays really well for commercial and jazz stuff. Very quick response, dark at softer volumes, and bright at louder volumes.
The second horn I bought was a Corporation 50B2. The bell was smashed during transit, but a couple of techs have worked on it to straighten it out. It’s very light, but it plays very well—good core, very even response, very stable, good dynamic flexibility.
I’ve had a couple of techs work on it over the years: John Sandhagen, Benn Hanssen, and Graham Middleton. Sandhagen did the initial work to take the tubing from two different horns to create one valve unit, and make the valve section convertible. John also did the installation of Kanstul CR valves. A few years ago, I asked Graham to replace those with Instrument Innovations rotaries, and replace the levers. Benn has done stuff here and there—I honestly don’t remember what, although I’m pretty sure he does. They’ve each added their own bit of magic, as well. <span class="emoji" title=":wink:">😉</span>
I also have an assortment of leadpipes, some stock, some from Instrument Innovations. There might be one or two of unknown provenance. I usually play the stock 50 leadpipe in my standard weight slide, and occasionally a stock 50 with about 1/4” removed from the end.
I prefer the yellow bell, but lately I’ve been using the gold bell—most people in my neck of the woods use gold brass or red brass bells. It just seems to blend a wee bit better.
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_4313.jpeg" index="2">
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_4314.jpeg" index="1">
<ATTACHMENT filename="IMG_4315.jpeg" index="0">
- GabrielRice
- Posts: 1496
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="MahlerMusic"]How hard is it to find a dual bore Bach 50 slide (.562-.578)? Need a Bach because of the longer length.[/quote]
Randy Campora had one years ago. I think it was custom from the factory.
Randy Campora had one years ago. I think it was custom from the factory.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
What are people’s thoughts on LT nickel slides?
I had one on my 50T3 20 years ago which didn’t work for me at all. A standard yellow slide changed the horn entirely, so I sold the nickel, and haven’t touched one since. The nickel felt like it had no core; the yellow brought it to life.
I know Randall Hawes uses one on some of his solo recordings, so they’re obviously not as terrible as they felt to me back in the day.
My current 50 sounds terrific for most orchestral styles, I’m just curious if I can lighten it up a little at times.
Andrew
I had one on my 50T3 20 years ago which didn’t work for me at all. A standard yellow slide changed the horn entirely, so I sold the nickel, and haven’t touched one since. The nickel felt like it had no core; the yellow brought it to life.
I know Randall Hawes uses one on some of his solo recordings, so they’re obviously not as terrible as they felt to me back in the day.
My current 50 sounds terrific for most orchestral styles, I’m just curious if I can lighten it up a little at times.
Andrew
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
Sometimes they are brittle, no life to the sound. Sometimes they are very very good.
- rudytbone
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Feb 17, 2024
[quote="TheBoneRanger"]What are people’s thoughts on LT nickel slides?
I had one on my 50T3 20 years ago which didn’t work for me at all. A standard yellow slide changed the horn entirely, so I sold the nickel, and haven’t touched one since. The nickel felt like it had no core; the yellow brought it to life.
I know Randall Hawes uses one on some of his solo recordings, so they’re obviously not as terrible as they felt to me back in the day.
My current 50 sounds terrific for most orchestral styles, I’m just curious if I can lighten it up a little at times.
Andrew[/quote]
I have them on my 42BO and I love them. They feel quick and responsive (to me).
I had one on my 50T3 20 years ago which didn’t work for me at all. A standard yellow slide changed the horn entirely, so I sold the nickel, and haven’t touched one since. The nickel felt like it had no core; the yellow brought it to life.
I know Randall Hawes uses one on some of his solo recordings, so they’re obviously not as terrible as they felt to me back in the day.
My current 50 sounds terrific for most orchestral styles, I’m just curious if I can lighten it up a little at times.
Andrew[/quote]
I have them on my 42BO and I love them. They feel quick and responsive (to me).
- MBurner
- Posts: 141
- Joined: Mar 15, 2019
My Bach 50, and I love it!
74 Corp 50 Bell
77 Corp 50 slide
Instrument Innovations guts
Corey Divine (Ark) build. Not many finer in our world than Corey, IMO.
74 Corp 50 Bell
77 Corp 50 slide
Instrument Innovations guts
Corey Divine (Ark) build. Not many finer in our world than Corey, IMO.
- TheBoneRanger
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Apr 04, 2018
[quote="Burgerbob"]Sometimes they are brittle, no life to the sound. Sometimes they are very very good.[/quote]
Brittle is the perfect descriptor of the one I had.
You say ‘very very good’ but in what way?
Brittle is the perfect descriptor of the one I had.
You say ‘very very good’ but in what way?
- ithinknot
- Posts: 1339
- Joined: Jul 24, 2020
The semi-tradition of pairing yellow bell/standard slide // G bell/LT slide didn't come from nowhere... especially when the gold bells might be heavier
- baBposaune
- Posts: 391
- Joined: Jan 21, 2019
[quote="JoeStanko"]Hmmm..ferrules aren’t original..knurled slide lock..not original.
Joe Stanko[/quote]
Slide looks like a Shires slide.
Matt Varho
Joe Stanko[/quote]
Slide looks like a Shires slide.
Matt Varho
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
I have what I term a "magic" Corp Bach 50 bell that has been on... I think 5 or 6 different valve sections at this point. I decided to bite the bullet and have Matthew do his magic to it. Fixed (no swapping out bells!), unlacquered, F/Gb, reverse tuning slide. Of course I can't play it for reals until later this week...






- Matt_K
- Posts: 4809
- Joined: Mar 21, 2018
I have a killer bass now, but that is one of a small handful of combinations I could see upending its current reign
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="Burgerbob"]I have what I term a "magic" Corp Bach 50 bell that has been on... I think 5 or 6 different valve sections at this point. I decided to bite the bullet and have Matthew do his magic to it. Fixed (no swapping out bells!), unlacquered, F/Gb, reverse tuning slide. Of course I can't play it for reals until later this week...


[/quote]
Very nice! Did the same to a very good Bach 36 bell. Turned out great!


[/quote]Very nice! Did the same to a very good Bach 36 bell. Turned out great!
- GabrielRice
- Posts: 1496
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I've been doing a lot of experimenting with various Bach 50 configurations over the last year, and here is where I'm landing for the time being.
The single has a Rotax valve mounted by a friend at Shires several years back with Shires tubing. The slide, tuning slide, and bell are from a 50B dated to 1976. I bought it on a lark with the unmodified original valve section through eBay, and when it arrived the complete instrument was terrible; 30 cents flat and very stuffy. But with a different slide the bell sounded and responded great, and I was able to isolate the problem to the leadpipe. My tech was able to remove it intact, only to discover that it was installed at the factory with WAY too much solder...and a big outside-in dent! He cleaned it up and fixed the dent, reinstalled it, and now the slide plays great.
The double has Greenhoe valves from the Schilke factory, a Bach tuning slide from a conversion, another corporation-era yellow bell (lighter than the one on the single, maybe older?), and 50 inners and outers with mismatched serial numbers and an MK50 pipe soldered in.
I also have a gold brass bell I can swap in on the Greenhoes and a nickel LW slide with a BrassArk MV50 pipe in it, both from the late 80s.
The single has a Rotax valve mounted by a friend at Shires several years back with Shires tubing. The slide, tuning slide, and bell are from a 50B dated to 1976. I bought it on a lark with the unmodified original valve section through eBay, and when it arrived the complete instrument was terrible; 30 cents flat and very stuffy. But with a different slide the bell sounded and responded great, and I was able to isolate the problem to the leadpipe. My tech was able to remove it intact, only to discover that it was installed at the factory with WAY too much solder...and a big outside-in dent! He cleaned it up and fixed the dent, reinstalled it, and now the slide plays great.
The double has Greenhoe valves from the Schilke factory, a Bach tuning slide from a conversion, another corporation-era yellow bell (lighter than the one on the single, maybe older?), and 50 inners and outers with mismatched serial numbers and an MK50 pipe soldered in.
I also have a gold brass bell I can swap in on the Greenhoes and a nickel LW slide with a BrassArk MV50 pipe in it, both from the late 80s.
- ACman
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Jan 16, 2023
I've been lucky enough to come into ownership of a great 1977 (25XXX) 50B2. It has such dense sound that I've been unable to find on any modern instrument. I'm currently trying to offload my other bass to raise the money to have Olsen rotors put on the Bach and have it converted to an independent setup. The horn is all original and currently in slightly rough shape. Slide moves slow and the rotors will occasionally stick even though they're oiled well. Despite the condition the blow on the horn is incredible. Hopefully, in a month or two I'll be able to post the horn to this thread in its updated configuration!
- TomInME
- Posts: 315
- Joined: Jan 03, 2024
[quote="GabrielRice"]The double has Greenhoe valves from the Schilke factory, a Bach tuning slide from a conversion, another corporation-era yellow bell (lighter than the one on the single, maybe older?), and 50 inners and outers with mismatched serial numbers and an MK50 pipe soldered in.
I also have a gold brass bell I can swap in on the Greenhoes and a nickel LW slide with a BrassArk MV50 pipe in it, both from the late 80s.[/quote]
That double is my dream...
I also have a gold brass bell I can swap in on the Greenhoes and a nickel LW slide with a BrassArk MV50 pipe in it, both from the late 80s.[/quote]
That double is my dream...
- LetItSlide
- Posts: 152
- Joined: Sep 01, 2022
You guys are really into bass trombones! I’m a tenor player and bought a new 50A3 couple of years ago. I love everything about it. If I played for a living (I’m a software engineer but got a bachelor’s in trombone performance), I would have tried all kinds of setups, because I enjoy that kind of thing. My tinkering is dedicated to another realm, not horns. Love Aidan’s YouTube channel!
- hornbuilder
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: May 02, 2018
Oops... See below.
- hornbuilder
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: May 02, 2018
Just finished the refurb/conversion on this NY Bach 50BG. Old Girl now has a whole bunch of years left in her for making music!!
- Matt_K
- Posts: 4809
- Joined: Mar 21, 2018
I love the bracing & trim on your conversions, such an elegant look!
- CuriousKen
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Jul 04, 2021
This just arrived today from Graham Middleton--my 50B I posted about earlier with Meinlschmidt open flow valves by Graham. I am now a fan of the Meinlschmidt open flow valves and an even bigger fan of Graham. Very open blow. Perfect. Just what I was hoping for.
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
That definitely looks like a great horn!
- Kbiggs
- Posts: 1768
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
[quote="CuriousKen"]This just arrived today from Graham Middleton--my 50B I posted about earlier with Meinlschmidt open flow valves by Graham. I am now a fan of the Meinlschmidt open flow valves and an even bigger fan of Graham. Very open blow. Perfect. Just what I was hoping for.[/quote]
Graham does such nice work!
Graham does such nice work!
