Preserving raw brass

Kingfan · by **Kingfan** » 2019-11-28 12:00 p.m.

My TR180 had red oxidation on the parts of the surface of the bell and tubing. I carefully cleaned it off. I'm happy to say it wasn't full blown red rot, it was just on the surface only. It still isn't a pretty horn, just less ugly... OK, now what? Car wax, spray furniture polish, a spray can of clear lacquer, Sherwin-Williams exterior latex? Just kidding on the last one!

hyperbolica · 2019-11-28 3:27 p.m.

I have several horns in total or partial raw brass. Get grips or guards or wraps for the areas your skin (or white shirt collars) touches.

Burgerbob · by **Burgerbob** » 2019-11-28 3:33 p.m.

Just let it be, polish when you want.

paulyg · by **paulyg** » 2019-11-28 7:35 p.m.

Patina is good, it will passivate the surface and make it resistant to further corrosion- red rot and the like.

Water spots are not quite as good- these can lead to rot on thin metal.

Oil should not cause much of an issue, but it will cause the brass to patina at a different rate (faster). If you have acidic skin, it may do more damage.

Raw brass horns become low-maintenance around 10-20 years after they've been polished. Until that point, just be sure to wipe off all water drops and oil left behind after playing. I spray mine with Pledge furniture polish to help protect it.

Kingfan · by **Kingfan** » 2019-11-28 7:57 p.m.

I used Barkeeper's Friend to get the worst of the corrosion off. What should I use to finish the cleaning job and polish the brass?

Kbiggs · by **Kbiggs** » 2019-11-28 8:12 p.m.

Wright’s Brass Polish, the paste variety. It’s minimally abrasive.

mrdeacon · by **mrdeacon** » 2019-11-29 9:46 p.m.

If you're worried about acid hands eating your horn all you have to do it's wipe it down after playing. Your horn will still patina but it won't get super nasty like it normally would.

Kingfan · by **Kingfan** » 2019-11-29 11:21 p.m.

[quote="Kbiggs"]Wright’s Brass Polish, the paste variety. It’s minimally abrasive.[/quote]

Thanks. Found some in the kitchen. I know what I'm doing tomorrow now!

Backbone · by **Backbone** » 2019-12-06 7:20 p.m.

[quote="Kingfan"]<QUOTE author="Kbiggs" post_id="98918" time="1574989979" user_id="172">
Wright’s Brass Polish, the paste variety. It’s minimally abrasive.[/quote]

Thanks. Found some in the kitchen. I know what I'm doing tomorrow now!
</QUOTE>

Pics?

Kingfan · by **Kingfan** » 2019-12-06 8:40 p.m.

[quote="Backbone"]<QUOTE author="Kingfan" post_id="98996" time="1575087669" user_id="3053">

Thanks. Found some in the kitchen. I know what I'm doing tomorrow now![/quote]

Pics?
</QUOTE>

Never figured out how to post pics on this forum. Sorry!

JeffDeault · by **JeffDeault** » 2019-12-30 8:51 p.m.

Something else that can help is having a VCI diffuser in your horn case. Like Zerust VC2 or similar. They're common in electrical cabinets and firearm storages. What they do is releasing a gas that reacts with humidity and inhibit oxidation. Drop one in your case and replace it every one or two years.

Won't protect your horn when you play with, but will help keeping it from oxidation when stored in the case.

ZulBone · by **ZulBone** » 2020-10-06 6:44 p.m.

[quote="paulyg"]Patina is good, it will passivate the surface and make it resistant to further corrosion- red rot and the like.

Water spots are not quite as good- these can lead to rot on thin metal.

Oil should not cause much of an issue, but it will cause the brass to patina at a different rate (faster). If you have acidic skin, it may do more damage.

Raw brass horns become low-maintenance around 10-20 years after they've been polished. Until that point, just be sure to wipe off all water drops and oil left behind after playing. I spray mine with Pledge furniture polish to help protect it.[/quote]

Does that mean water spots should be polished off? Or should they be left alone?

harrisonreed · by **harrisonreed** » 2020-10-06 6:49 p.m.

I heard of people using turtle wax or car wax to cover newly polished raw brass. Is that OK to do? I'm still trying to figure out how to clean up the neck pipe on my 88H and maybe that's the way

BGuttman · by **BGuttman** » 2020-10-06 7:18 p.m.

Car wax or Butcher's wax will help. None is a permanent solution. Lacquer is much better.

Wax will preserve the brass finish for a few months, after which you will have to wax it again (probably after another polish).

Back in the Bad Old Days there was a treatment for brass that kept it looking the same forever. Problem is, it contains some really hazardous metals.

btone · by **btone** » 2020-10-07 11:42 a.m.

I have a number of horns with raw brass bells. +1 for Wright's brass polish (occasionally) and Pledge (every few weeks) and making to be sure to remove fingerprints (daily) and water spots routinely. I also recommend routinely using a chamois when wiping down the bell, a lacquered horn, or a mouthpiece (especially the rim) so as to avoid dust scratches.

vetsurginc · by **vetsurginc** » 2020-10-07 9:44 p.m.

Renaissance micro-crystalline wax polish works nicely as well (museums use for armor, swords, and other metals). Does not produce a high shine. But good protection.

ssking2b · by **ssking2b** » 2020-10-09 3:25 p.m.

I have found that a good non-abrasive car polish works well - like NU Finish, Simonize Non-Abrasive Car Polish, or a non-toxic cleaner polish like FLITZ. All need to be re-done after a few months, but they work great and add no weight or yucchhk to the horn. They don't change the playing characteristics. I have been using that sort of stuff on my horns for over 30 years.

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Preserving raw brass