What’s your favorite tuning slide grease?
- Elow
- Posts: 1924
- Joined: Mar 02, 2020
Just looking to see what everyone’s go to tuning slide grease is. I normally use lanolin, but something tragic happened today. I ran out, my other options are super slick tuning slide grease and vasoline. Both seem to have the same thickness, I hate them both. So i’m just seeing if anyone uses something different.
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
Dow Corning silicone grease (pretty common in chemistry labs) works very well. Little thicker than Vaseline and thinner than Lanolin. Available from McMaster-Carr. A tube will last about 3 lifetimes.
I've tried UltraPure. The light grease is a little thin; probably like the Super Slick. But they have a heavier grade that may be just the ticket.
I used to have a tube of grease for Thompson shafts. Label fell off years ago and I have no idea what it is, but it was the best stuff I ever used.
I don't like the red goop from Selmer, but some do.
There have been some reports of using STP oil treatment. I think I tried this back when I used to do my own oil changes since enough will stick to the walls of the can to last for quite a while. But it smelled pretty bad and stained my clothes.
I don't like Vaseline after I discovered it was turning green from the copper in my tuning slide.
I've tried UltraPure. The light grease is a little thin; probably like the Super Slick. But they have a heavier grade that may be just the ticket.
I used to have a tube of grease for Thompson shafts. Label fell off years ago and I have no idea what it is, but it was the best stuff I ever used.
I don't like the red goop from Selmer, but some do.
There have been some reports of using STP oil treatment. I think I tried this back when I used to do my own oil changes since enough will stick to the walls of the can to last for quite a while. But it smelled pretty bad and stained my clothes.
I don't like Vaseline after I discovered it was turning green from the copper in my tuning slide.
- Elow
- Posts: 1924
- Joined: Mar 02, 2020
I mix the lanolin with red goop from bach to thin it up a bit
- Kbiggs
- Posts: 1768
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
[quote="BGuttman"]
I've tried UltraPure. The light grease is a little thin; probably like the Super Slick. But they have a heavier grade that may be just the ticket.
[/quote]
I use the heavy grade for the main tuning slide and the ball-and-socket joints of valve linkage. I use the lighter grade for the tuning crooks for F and G-flat valves. Works a treat!
I've tried UltraPure. The light grease is a little thin; probably like the Super Slick. But they have a heavier grade that may be just the ticket.
[/quote]
I use the heavy grade for the main tuning slide and the ball-and-socket joints of valve linkage. I use the lighter grade for the tuning crooks for F and G-flat valves. Works a treat!
- noordinaryjoe
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Jul 06, 2020
Someone turned me onto LeBlanc Slid-Eze slide and cork grease years ago, seems just about perfect.
Small tube has plenty of grease for ages, but still doesn't take up much room in the case.
My $.02
Small tube has plenty of grease for ages, but still doesn't take up much room in the case.
My $.02
- marccromme
- Posts: 457
- Joined: Mar 30, 2018
Red goop from seller branded as cork barrel grease works really well if applied very thin. Lasts for many weeks before reapplying. Sticks fine, slides don't move on their own.
For tuba valve slides I need to move for fine tuning, I apply it, remove with dry paper, and give five drops of piston valve oil, then work the slide, occasionally with an extra drop, just until it sticks very little.
For tuba valve slides I need to move for fine tuning, I apply it, remove with dry paper, and give five drops of piston valve oil, then work the slide, occasionally with an extra drop, just until it sticks very little.
- bigbandbone
- Posts: 602
- Joined: Jan 17, 2019
Selmer tuning slide and cork grease.
- bbocaner
- Posts: 315
- Joined: Mar 26, 2018
spacefiller ts is my favorite, but it's hard to find, so I often substitute hetman number 7 -- but that tends to wash off much faster.
- Burgerbob
- Posts: 6327
- Joined: Apr 23, 2018
Ultra-Pure. I match my valve and slide oils so they aren't interacting a bad way.
- harrisonreed
- Posts: 6479
- Joined: Aug 17, 2018
Hetmans. See Aidan's post, above.
- GabrielRice
- Posts: 1496
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
Hetman Slide Gel Plus, for the same reason as Aiden. It's important, because you want your tuning slide grease to be able to be dissolved by your valve oil. That's right, you do.
Please don't use Vaseline or that Dow-Corning stuff. The Dow-Corning doesn't dissolve, it just moves around. I used it for a while, and when my horn was getting cleaned they found it built up inside the valve tubing.
Please don't use Vaseline or that Dow-Corning stuff. The Dow-Corning doesn't dissolve, it just moves around. I used it for a while, and when my horn was getting cleaned they found it built up inside the valve tubing.
- bassbone721
- Posts: 45
- Joined: Jan 17, 2020
All Hetman's here too! Hetman 7 specifically.
- BrianJohnston
- Posts: 1165
- Joined: Jul 11, 2020
Monster oil.
- Doubler
- Posts: 435
- Joined: Jan 07, 2019
Schilke Tuning Slide Grease. It's versatile. It'll keep lose slides from moving and enable tight slides to move.
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="sporto"]anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts[/quote]
Wow. Doesn't that get kinda gummy?
Wow. Doesn't that get kinda gummy?
- sporto
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Jul 09, 2018
anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts
Wow. Doesn't that get kinda gummy?
I found the lanolin alone is very temperature sensitive. So yeah, the anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts below 65 degrees is gummy. But the beeswax keeps the lanolin from getting too thin on hot days.
Wow. Doesn't that get kinda gummy?
I found the lanolin alone is very temperature sensitive. So yeah, the anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts below 65 degrees is gummy. But the beeswax keeps the lanolin from getting too thin on hot days.
- Elow
- Posts: 1924
- Joined: Mar 02, 2020
[quote="sporto"]anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts
Wow. Doesn't that get kinda gummy?
I found the lanolin alone is very temperature sensitive. So yeah, the anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts below 65 degrees is gummy. But the beeswax keeps the lanolin from getting too thin on hot days.[/quote]
I live in florida and i’ve never experienced my lanolin like that. I also haven’t had any problems with it being too thing.
Wow. Doesn't that get kinda gummy?
I found the lanolin alone is very temperature sensitive. So yeah, the anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts below 65 degrees is gummy. But the beeswax keeps the lanolin from getting too thin on hot days.[/quote]
I live in florida and i’ve never experienced my lanolin like that. I also haven’t had any problems with it being too thing.
- Bonearzt
- Posts: 833
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
I usetime the red crap from Conn-Selmer, my go to for a long time! Although it seems to be less slightly thinner and less sticky now.
And to rehash a pet peeve...
If you need a thick grease or o-ring to keep your tuning slides in position, you need to have them fitted correctly!!
And to rehash a pet peeve...
If you need a thick grease or o-ring to keep your tuning slides in position, you need to have them fitted correctly!!
- sporto
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Jul 09, 2018
I found the lanolin alone is very temperature sensitive. So yeah, the anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts below 65 degrees is gummy. But the beeswax keeps the lanolin from getting too thin on hot days.
And the beeswax keeps the lanolin from going semi-solid at cold temps
And the beeswax keeps the lanolin from going semi-solid at cold temps
- sacfxdx
- Posts: 406
- Joined: Apr 11, 2018
- Crazy4Tbone86
- Posts: 1654
- Joined: Jan 14, 2020
I mix my own with two primary ingredients:
*Generic tuning slide grease (leftovers) that are donated to me by a local retailer when their rentals are returned. These are the little tubs of tuning slide grease that is very similar to Schilke's tuning slide grease.
*Lanolin
I make three mixes (these percentages are approximations).....
1. Fast moving grease for 1st and 3rd tuning slides on trumpets and "active while playing" tuning slides on other instruments (baritones and tubas). This is about 70% generic grease, 20% lanolin and 5% petroleum-based valve oil.
2. Cold weather tuning slide grease (because the lanolin can get stiff in the colder weather). This is about 50% generic grease and 50% lanolin.
3. Warm weather tuning slide grease. This is about 35% generic grease and 65% lanolin.
I usually mix my tuning slide greases in a Cool-Whip container and blend them slowly by using a microwave oven. I melt the mix for 25-30 seconds and then stir with a popsicle stick. I repeat the process many times until the mix is smooth and consistent.
It takes a few hours to cool and then I check for consistency. If the consistency is not correct, I adjust the recipe and do the microwave/stir/cool process again. Once the mix is correct, I must heat it one more time and poor into smaller containers or place in the larger container for the shop.
I started making my own many years ago because I found that few brands were the correct consistency. Most tuning slide greases are too thin and the slide will catch or bind as you try to move it. A few are too thick and will barely move in cooler weather or an air conditioned room. I also thought that doing my own mixes would be a great way to use the otherwise-discarded tubs of tuning slide grease. :)
*Generic tuning slide grease (leftovers) that are donated to me by a local retailer when their rentals are returned. These are the little tubs of tuning slide grease that is very similar to Schilke's tuning slide grease.
*Lanolin
I make three mixes (these percentages are approximations).....
1. Fast moving grease for 1st and 3rd tuning slides on trumpets and "active while playing" tuning slides on other instruments (baritones and tubas). This is about 70% generic grease, 20% lanolin and 5% petroleum-based valve oil.
2. Cold weather tuning slide grease (because the lanolin can get stiff in the colder weather). This is about 50% generic grease and 50% lanolin.
3. Warm weather tuning slide grease. This is about 35% generic grease and 65% lanolin.
I usually mix my tuning slide greases in a Cool-Whip container and blend them slowly by using a microwave oven. I melt the mix for 25-30 seconds and then stir with a popsicle stick. I repeat the process many times until the mix is smooth and consistent.
It takes a few hours to cool and then I check for consistency. If the consistency is not correct, I adjust the recipe and do the microwave/stir/cool process again. Once the mix is correct, I must heat it one more time and poor into smaller containers or place in the larger container for the shop.
I started making my own many years ago because I found that few brands were the correct consistency. Most tuning slide greases are too thin and the slide will catch or bind as you try to move it. A few are too thick and will barely move in cooler weather or an air conditioned room. I also thought that doing my own mixes would be a great way to use the otherwise-discarded tubs of tuning slide grease. :)
- ssking2b
- Posts: 487
- Joined: Sep 29, 2018
Selmer red goop on some slides and Dow-Corning on slides that move too easy. Yamaha tuning slide oil on tuba slides that need to move while playing (1st valve), and STP available to mix with any and all of the above in TINY quantity.
- btone
- Posts: 125
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
Selmer red goop works best for me for most instruments. Just remember to store it upside down so you don't have to squeeze the plastic container much; they used to get very brittle with age. Probably planned product obscelence to induce the consumer to buy a new bottle every couple decades.
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="baileyman"]You mean, you want to move the tuning slide?[/quote]
Nah! I get 'em welded at the factory :twisted: :tongue:
Nah! I get 'em welded at the factory :twisted: :tongue:
- dougm
- Posts: 34
- Joined: Jan 08, 2020
I have a stash of the OLD Conn red tuning slide grease. Little square container with a flip open lid. Maybe from the 1970's? My teacher gave it to me in the 90's. On my last container of it, I've shared a few. I *heard* that the "new" formula is different. I appreciate this thread that I will reference once that last container is consumed.
- Bonearzt
- Posts: 833
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
I think the "new" red crap is still good, but just not as sticky as the old stuff.
- Crazy4Tbone86
- Posts: 1654
- Joined: Jan 14, 2020
Eric,
I agree that the Selmer red stuff is decent. I used the old stuff for many years and have sampled the newer stuff shared by musician friends a couple of times. The grease itself is a good product.
I abandoned the old version red stuff many years ago because of the packaging. Those old white square-shaped bottles would crack in the corner and the grease would slowly leak and saturate the lining of the case. The leaky bottle ruined one of my cases years ago and I have seen the same thing happen to a few other people.
For many years, if any of my students showed up to a lesson with those square bottles, I would advise them to turn the bottle upside down and let gravity drain the grease out of the opening. I always feared that they would squeeze the bottle too hard and crack it. I don’t know what kind of bottle the new red stuff is sold in, but I really hope Selmer has changed its packaging.
I agree that the Selmer red stuff is decent. I used the old stuff for many years and have sampled the newer stuff shared by musician friends a couple of times. The grease itself is a good product.
I abandoned the old version red stuff many years ago because of the packaging. Those old white square-shaped bottles would crack in the corner and the grease would slowly leak and saturate the lining of the case. The leaky bottle ruined one of my cases years ago and I have seen the same thing happen to a few other people.
For many years, if any of my students showed up to a lesson with those square bottles, I would advise them to turn the bottle upside down and let gravity drain the grease out of the opening. I always feared that they would squeeze the bottle too hard and crack it. I don’t know what kind of bottle the new red stuff is sold in, but I really hope Selmer has changed its packaging.
- Bonearzt
- Posts: 833
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="Crazy4Tbone86"]Eric,
I agree that the Selmer red stuff is decent. I used the old stuff for many years and have sampled the newer stuff shared by musician friends a couple of times. The grease itself is a good product.
I abandoned the old version red stuff many years ago because of the packaging. Those old white square-shaped bottles would crack in the corner and the grease would slowly leak and saturate the lining of the case. The leaky bottle ruined one of my cases years ago and I have seen the same thing happen to a few other people.
For many years, if any of my students showed up to a lesson with those square bottles, I would advise them to turn the bottle upside down and let gravity drain the grease out of the opening. I always feared that they would squeeze the bottle too hard and crack it. I don’t know what kind of bottle the new red stuff is sold in, but I really hope Selmer has changed its packaging.[/quote]
Yes they have changed the bottle to a clear plastic, not sure yet how durable it is, time will tell...
if I encounter any of the white plastic in a case, I place it in a small zip-lock baggie.
For my bench, I drain the bottle into a small brush-top can, makes it easier to handle using the brush...
I agree that the Selmer red stuff is decent. I used the old stuff for many years and have sampled the newer stuff shared by musician friends a couple of times. The grease itself is a good product.
I abandoned the old version red stuff many years ago because of the packaging. Those old white square-shaped bottles would crack in the corner and the grease would slowly leak and saturate the lining of the case. The leaky bottle ruined one of my cases years ago and I have seen the same thing happen to a few other people.
For many years, if any of my students showed up to a lesson with those square bottles, I would advise them to turn the bottle upside down and let gravity drain the grease out of the opening. I always feared that they would squeeze the bottle too hard and crack it. I don’t know what kind of bottle the new red stuff is sold in, but I really hope Selmer has changed its packaging.[/quote]
Yes they have changed the bottle to a clear plastic, not sure yet how durable it is, time will tell...
if I encounter any of the white plastic in a case, I place it in a small zip-lock baggie.
For my bench, I drain the bottle into a small brush-top can, makes it easier to handle using the brush...
- Crazy4Tbone86
- Posts: 1654
- Joined: Jan 14, 2020
[quote="Bonearzt"]<QUOTE author="Crazy4Tbone86" post_id="122556" time="1597247225" user_id="8392">
Eric,
I agree that the Selmer red stuff is decent. I used the old stuff for many years and have sampled the newer stuff shared by musician friends a couple of times. The grease itself is a good product.
I abandoned the old version red stuff many years ago because of the packaging. Those old white square-shaped bottles would crack in the corner and the grease would slowly leak and saturate the lining of the case. The leaky bottle ruined one of my cases years ago and I have seen the same thing happen to a few other people.
For many years, if any of my students showed up to a lesson with those square bottles, I would advise them to turn the bottle upside down and let gravity drain the grease out of the opening. I always feared that they would squeeze the bottle too hard and crack it. I don’t know what kind of bottle the new red stuff is sold in, but I really hope Selmer has changed its packaging.[/quote]
Yes they have changed the bottle to a clear plastic, not sure yet how durable it is, time will tell...
if I encounter any of the white plastic in a case, I place it in a small zip-lock baggie.
For my bench, I drain the bottle into a small brush-top can, makes it easier to handle using the brush...
</QUOTE>
Yes Eric, we think very similarly! I resorted to using zip-lock sandwich bags for holding the square, white plastic containers of red goop in my cases and gave the same advice to everyone. When I worked in the big shop, I would also drain the Selmer red stuff into a larger container and used a small paint brush to apply it. For a couple of years in the shop, I used the red goop exclusively because the tuning slide grease that was provided was too thin.
Glad to hear that they have changed the bottle!
Eric,
I agree that the Selmer red stuff is decent. I used the old stuff for many years and have sampled the newer stuff shared by musician friends a couple of times. The grease itself is a good product.
I abandoned the old version red stuff many years ago because of the packaging. Those old white square-shaped bottles would crack in the corner and the grease would slowly leak and saturate the lining of the case. The leaky bottle ruined one of my cases years ago and I have seen the same thing happen to a few other people.
For many years, if any of my students showed up to a lesson with those square bottles, I would advise them to turn the bottle upside down and let gravity drain the grease out of the opening. I always feared that they would squeeze the bottle too hard and crack it. I don’t know what kind of bottle the new red stuff is sold in, but I really hope Selmer has changed its packaging.[/quote]
Yes they have changed the bottle to a clear plastic, not sure yet how durable it is, time will tell...
if I encounter any of the white plastic in a case, I place it in a small zip-lock baggie.
For my bench, I drain the bottle into a small brush-top can, makes it easier to handle using the brush...
</QUOTE>
Yes Eric, we think very similarly! I resorted to using zip-lock sandwich bags for holding the square, white plastic containers of red goop in my cases and gave the same advice to everyone. When I worked in the big shop, I would also drain the Selmer red stuff into a larger container and used a small paint brush to apply it. For a couple of years in the shop, I used the red goop exclusively because the tuning slide grease that was provided was too thin.
Glad to hear that they have changed the bottle!
- Crazy4Tbone86
- Posts: 1654
- Joined: Jan 14, 2020
Hey Everyone,
Look what arrived with a trumpet repair in my shop this afternoon......a (probably 1990s) bottle of the red Selmer Tuning Slide Grease. If you look carefully in the lower left corner, you will see that the plastic is very close to cracking open. This puppy is going to need a ziplock bag.
<LINK_TEXT text="https://trombonechat.com/download/file. ... ew&id=5966">https://trombonechat.com/download/file.php?mode=view&id=5966</LINK_TEXT>
Look what arrived with a trumpet repair in my shop this afternoon......a (probably 1990s) bottle of the red Selmer Tuning Slide Grease. If you look carefully in the lower left corner, you will see that the plastic is very close to cracking open. This puppy is going to need a ziplock bag.
<LINK_TEXT text="https://trombonechat.com/download/file. ... ew&id=5966">https://trombonechat.com/download/file.php?mode=view&id=5966</LINK_TEXT>
- Driswood
- Posts: 308
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
I use ZAJA tuning slide grease. Used to be a pain during winters up north, but here in Florida I don't have that problem. It's pretty thick. I've been using a small tub since 1998. Tuning slide stays put!
Not sure if it's still available.

Not sure if it's still available.

- RConrad
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Oct 17, 2018
[quote="Crazy4Tbone86"]Hey Everyone,
Look what arrived with a trumpet repair in my shop this afternoon......a (probably 1990s) bottle of the red Selmer Tuning Slide Grease. If you look carefully in the lower left corner, you will see that the plastic is very close to cracking open. This puppy is going to need a ziplock bag.
<LINK_TEXT text="https://trombonechat.com/download/file. ... ew&id=5966">https://trombonechat.com/download/file.php?mode=view&id=5966</LINK_TEXT>[/quote]
There's a bottle just like that kicking around my father's house somewhere. I also had the Bach tuning slide grease that came in the white container with a pop top that looked like lip balm, wasn't a fan as it was too easy to get more than I needed. These days I use the Bach 2942 tuning slide grease. It's less viscous than the old stuff and a bit easier to get out of the bottle, we'll see if the bottle holds up better than the old white ones though.
Look what arrived with a trumpet repair in my shop this afternoon......a (probably 1990s) bottle of the red Selmer Tuning Slide Grease. If you look carefully in the lower left corner, you will see that the plastic is very close to cracking open. This puppy is going to need a ziplock bag.
<LINK_TEXT text="https://trombonechat.com/download/file. ... ew&id=5966">https://trombonechat.com/download/file.php?mode=view&id=5966</LINK_TEXT>[/quote]
There's a bottle just like that kicking around my father's house somewhere. I also had the Bach tuning slide grease that came in the white container with a pop top that looked like lip balm, wasn't a fan as it was too easy to get more than I needed. These days I use the Bach 2942 tuning slide grease. It's less viscous than the old stuff and a bit easier to get out of the bottle, we'll see if the bottle holds up better than the old white ones though.
- Elow
- Posts: 1924
- Joined: Mar 02, 2020
Funny you reply today. Happy day this morning from allied. I was so excited i forgot to turn the lights on.
- MistedSwan
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Apr 15, 2022
[quote="sporto"]anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts[/quote]
How do you combine a two? Just mixing with a spoon, or heating it up in a pot?
How do you combine a two? Just mixing with a spoon, or heating it up in a pot?
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="MistedSwan"]<QUOTE author="sporto" post_id="122266" time="1596988186" user_id="3506">
anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts[/quote]
How do you combine a two? Just mixing with a spoon, or heating it up in a pot?
</QUOTE>
Got to heat them. Use hot water (60-70C).
anhydrous lanolin & beeswax, equal parts[/quote]
How do you combine a two? Just mixing with a spoon, or heating it up in a pot?
</QUOTE>
Got to heat them. Use hot water (60-70C).
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="OneTon"]Like a double boiler?[/quote]
Or a poached egg cooker. Or just a hot water bath.
Or a poached egg cooker. Or just a hot water bath.
- harrisonreed
- Posts: 6479
- Joined: Aug 17, 2018
Or just use Ultra Pure heavy slide grease. No cooking required.
- muschem
- Posts: 372
- Joined: Jan 17, 2021
[quote="harrisonreed"]Or just use Ultra Pure heavy slide grease. No cooking required.[/quote]
I recently tried Ultra Pure in normal and heavy weights to compare against the lanolin+beeswax combination I'd used for years. I'm a fan - this stuff is great.
I recently tried Ultra Pure in normal and heavy weights to compare against the lanolin+beeswax combination I'd used for years. I'm a fan - this stuff is great.
- Pezza
- Posts: 221
- Joined: Aug 24, 2021
Some goop I got in a tube nearly 30 years ago on a music camp! No idea what it is. Tube's nearly empty, so will have to look for more soon.
- ghmerrill
- Posts: 2193
- Joined: Apr 02, 2018
[quote="BGuttman"]Dow Corning silicone grease (pretty common in chemistry labs) works very well. Little thicker than Vaseline and thinner than Lanolin. Available from McMaster-Carr. A tube will last about 3 lifetimes.[/quote]
I switched to the Dow Corning (silicone) grease probably 20 years ago after using lanolin on my various instruments (trombone, tuba, euphonium) for a decade. The silicone is MUCH better in several ways.
If you don't want to spend the big bucks for the Dow Corning stuff (or get it in that quantity) you can get what is essentially the same in plumbing (faucet) sections of the big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot. One version is Danco Silicone Grease (small tube for $4.48) and another is Oatey Silicone Grease (small screw top container for $3.78). Doesn't wash off like Lanolin does, doesn't dry out in the container, no odor, etc. But I do kind of miss the smell of Lanolin. The Romans used it for waterproofing their cloaks and protecting their weapons from corrosion. So it's historically cool, if not really as effective as a more modern substance.
I switched to the Dow Corning (silicone) grease probably 20 years ago after using lanolin on my various instruments (trombone, tuba, euphonium) for a decade. The silicone is MUCH better in several ways.
If you don't want to spend the big bucks for the Dow Corning stuff (or get it in that quantity) you can get what is essentially the same in plumbing (faucet) sections of the big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot. One version is Danco Silicone Grease (small tube for $4.48) and another is Oatey Silicone Grease (small screw top container for $3.78). Doesn't wash off like Lanolin does, doesn't dry out in the container, no odor, etc. But I do kind of miss the smell of Lanolin. The Romans used it for waterproofing their cloaks and protecting their weapons from corrosion. So it's historically cool, if not really as effective as a more modern substance.
- KingThings
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Feb 13, 2024
[quote="ghmerrill"]<QUOTE author="BGuttman" post_id="122105" time="1596826326" user_id="53">
Dow Corning silicone grease (pretty common in chemistry labs) works very well. Little thicker than Vaseline and thinner than Lanolin. Available from McMaster-Carr. A tube will last about 3 lifetimes.[/quote]
I switched to the Dow Corning (silicone) grease probably 20 years ago after using lanolin on my various instruments (trombone, tuba, euphonium) for a decade. The silicone is MUCH better in several ways.
If you don't want to spend the big bucks for the Dow Corning stuff (or get it in that quantity) you can get what is essentially the same in plumbing (faucet) sections of the big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot. One version is Danco Silicone Grease (small tube for $4.48) and another is Oatey Silicone Grease (small screw top container for $3.78). Doesn't wash off like Lanolin does, doesn't dry out in the container, no odor, etc. But I do kind of miss the smell of Lanolin. The Romans used it for waterproofing their cloaks and protecting their weapons from corrosion. So it's historically cool, if not really as effective as a more modern substance.
</QUOTE>
Brake grease is also the same..... silicone and cheap.
I have to find out what my tech uses as it works well. Probably some Yamaha stuff.
Dow Corning silicone grease (pretty common in chemistry labs) works very well. Little thicker than Vaseline and thinner than Lanolin. Available from McMaster-Carr. A tube will last about 3 lifetimes.[/quote]
I switched to the Dow Corning (silicone) grease probably 20 years ago after using lanolin on my various instruments (trombone, tuba, euphonium) for a decade. The silicone is MUCH better in several ways.
If you don't want to spend the big bucks for the Dow Corning stuff (or get it in that quantity) you can get what is essentially the same in plumbing (faucet) sections of the big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot. One version is Danco Silicone Grease (small tube for $4.48) and another is Oatey Silicone Grease (small screw top container for $3.78). Doesn't wash off like Lanolin does, doesn't dry out in the container, no odor, etc. But I do kind of miss the smell of Lanolin. The Romans used it for waterproofing their cloaks and protecting their weapons from corrosion. So it's historically cool, if not really as effective as a more modern substance.
</QUOTE>
Brake grease is also the same..... silicone and cheap.
I have to find out what my tech uses as it works well. Probably some Yamaha stuff.
- ghmerrill
- Posts: 2193
- Joined: Apr 02, 2018
[quote="baileyman"]Tuning slide?[/quote]
Yeah, some of us have more than one. :shock:
Yeah, some of us have more than one. :shock:
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
[quote="ghmerrill"]<QUOTE author="baileyman" post_id="237031" time="1710084363" user_id="160">
Tuning slide?[/quote]
Yeah, some of us have more than one. :shock:
</QUOTE>
And not the 4 foot one in your right hand. ;)
Tuning slide?[/quote]
Yeah, some of us have more than one. :shock:
</QUOTE>
And not the 4 foot one in your right hand. ;)
- BrassSection
- Posts: 424
- Joined: May 11, 2022
Somehow never switched from Selmer. Been using it since the 60s, with the exception of the few years in the 70s when I didn’t have any horns. No issues.
- calcbone
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Jun 11, 2018
Just seeing this thread and several people talking about anhydrous lanolin being temperature sensitive… I can speak from experience there!
I had a big tub of it in college. One year, I packed my car and drove back to school for band camp…but they’d always have just one dorm open for the first few days for us band kids, before the rest of the dorms opened. This particular year, it wasn’t my dorm, so I didn’t fully unpack my car—just got out the essentials for those first few days.
To make a long story short… the lid to the tub of lanolin had a little crack in it. After a few days sitting in my car in the Alabama heat, it had melted and leaked all over the place… mainly on some socks, if I remember correctly?
So… perhaps it got a bit hotter than it would in normal playing conditions, but I could imagine a gig on a hot sunny day where the metal of your tuning slide heats up more than the air around it…
I had a big tub of it in college. One year, I packed my car and drove back to school for band camp…but they’d always have just one dorm open for the first few days for us band kids, before the rest of the dorms opened. This particular year, it wasn’t my dorm, so I didn’t fully unpack my car—just got out the essentials for those first few days.
To make a long story short… the lid to the tub of lanolin had a little crack in it. After a few days sitting in my car in the Alabama heat, it had melted and leaked all over the place… mainly on some socks, if I remember correctly?
So… perhaps it got a bit hotter than it would in normal playing conditions, but I could imagine a gig on a hot sunny day where the metal of your tuning slide heats up more than the air around it…
- officermayo
- Posts: 654
- Joined: Jun 09, 2021
Hmmm.
A college age kid with a sock full of lanolin in his dorm room?
Not that there's anything wrong with that. :-)
A college age kid with a sock full of lanolin in his dorm room?
Not that there's anything wrong with that. :-)
- officermayo
- Posts: 654
- Joined: Jun 09, 2021
[quote="BGuttman"]<QUOTE author="baileyman" post_id="122489" time="1597194128" user_id="160">
You mean, you want to move the tuning slide?[/quote]
Nah! I get 'em welded at the factory :twisted: :tongue:
</QUOTE>
I never move my tuning slide as my horn was tuned at the factory. :-)
Seriously though, I've always used just plain ol' Chapstick. 50+ years, no issues and there's always a tube in my pocket.
You mean, you want to move the tuning slide?[/quote]
Nah! I get 'em welded at the factory :twisted: :tongue:
</QUOTE>
I never move my tuning slide as my horn was tuned at the factory. :-)
Seriously though, I've always used just plain ol' Chapstick. 50+ years, no issues and there's always a tube in my pocket.
- calcbone
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Jun 11, 2018
[quote="officermayo"]Hmmm.
A college age kid with a sock full of lanolin in his dorm room?
Not that there's anything wrong with that. :-)[/quote]
Hahaha…. Ok… never thought of using it for any purpose but tuning slides, though. Just happened to be near the plastic storage thing that had most of my clothes in the car.
A college age kid with a sock full of lanolin in his dorm room?
Not that there's anything wrong with that. :-)[/quote]
Hahaha…. Ok… never thought of using it for any purpose but tuning slides, though. Just happened to be near the plastic storage thing that had most of my clothes in the car.
- tbdana
- Posts: 1928
- Joined: Apr 08, 2023
I rarely move my tuning slides much (which is not a secret here). I use the red Bach tuning slide lubricant, and it stays pliable between cleanings so that on those rare occasions that I do move my tuning slide, it moves easily even after the slide sits immobile for a week.
- whitbey
- Posts: 654
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
For me it is the method I use it.
Vaseline and a lighter.
I goober on a bunch of Vaseline on the tuning slides, the ball joints and the pivot point and springs. Then I hit them with a lighter being careful not to melt the corks or rubber valve stops. The Vaseline melts into everything quite nice. The ball sockets fill when the Vaseline melts then it solidifies filling the space. Even the old style Bach ball joints work great and quiet. The Vaseline spreads out and seems to lock on the tuning slide tubing. And those springs and that long pivot point on the keys fill up.
Seems like all of this trouble is time saving as nothing really needs any more attention for a year to year and a half.
Obviously, if you have plastic parts or rubber bumpers, you do not want to put a lighter to those things.
Because I am allergic to most valve oils, I use Slide-O-Mix all in one to lube my rotary valves. The Teflon and silicone tend to build up and improve the lubrication as repeat oiling occurs.
Vaseline and a lighter.
I goober on a bunch of Vaseline on the tuning slides, the ball joints and the pivot point and springs. Then I hit them with a lighter being careful not to melt the corks or rubber valve stops. The Vaseline melts into everything quite nice. The ball sockets fill when the Vaseline melts then it solidifies filling the space. Even the old style Bach ball joints work great and quiet. The Vaseline spreads out and seems to lock on the tuning slide tubing. And those springs and that long pivot point on the keys fill up.
Seems like all of this trouble is time saving as nothing really needs any more attention for a year to year and a half.
Obviously, if you have plastic parts or rubber bumpers, you do not want to put a lighter to those things.
Because I am allergic to most valve oils, I use Slide-O-Mix all in one to lube my rotary valves. The Teflon and silicone tend to build up and improve the lubrication as repeat oiling occurs.
- dukesboneman
- Posts: 935
- Joined: Apr 02, 2018
I use either Vaseline or Desiden (jell not creme)
- JohntheTheologian
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Apr 12, 2018
I stumbled onto Bag Balm, originally the stuff used by dairy farmers for cow udders, but now repackaged as a general skin ointment.
It's a mixture of petrolatum (Vaseline) and lanolin with a little antiseptic thrown in for good measure. It actually works quite well, I keep it on hand for skin use anyway and it disinfects your tuning slide at the same time. ;)
It's a mixture of petrolatum (Vaseline) and lanolin with a little antiseptic thrown in for good measure. It actually works quite well, I keep it on hand for skin use anyway and it disinfects your tuning slide at the same time. ;)
- BrassSection
- Posts: 424
- Joined: May 11, 2022
I too have been in the Selmer camp since the 60s, never had an issue with any of my horns. Most horns hit the tub every 6 months or so.
- SamEdwTbone
- Posts: 30
- Joined: Nov 20, 2023
Schilke or fat cat has been my go to for the past 7 years :good:
- carguy2003
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Oct 17, 2023
The red bottle Bach stuff works great for me!
- ssking2b
- Posts: 487
- Joined: Sep 29, 2018
I just got turned on to the Ultrapure heavy tuning slide grease. It is incredible!!!
- NorthWoodsEngineer
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Oct 25, 2024
A couple years ago I ended up with the J.L. Meinlschmidt slide gel #7 - I had actually ordered a Hetman product but they reached out and offered to send me this instead since they couldn't get the Hetman and that's what a lot of their techs had switched to. One application I was hooked - lasts super long and seals incredibly. Highly recommend!
- dukesboneman
- Posts: 935
- Joined: Apr 02, 2018
I use either Vaseline or (my preferred) Desitin gel (the Diaper rash stuff)
Works great
Works great
- Posaunus
- Posts: 5018
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
Pretty much a non-issue for me. My tuning slide grease lasts for months; not too picky about brand - most work just fine on my trombones
- fourtissimo
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Jul 09, 2023
[quote="ssking2b"]I just got turned on to the Ultrapure heavy tuning slide grease. It is incredible!!![/quote]
I put this on my horn a while back and it made my tuning slides VERY hard to move for a few weeks. Wouldn't be much of an issue except when taking my horn in and out of the case. I wonder what percentage of players push their tuning slides all the way in when they put their horns away...
I put this on my horn a while back and it made my tuning slides VERY hard to move for a few weeks. Wouldn't be much of an issue except when taking my horn in and out of the case. I wonder what percentage of players push their tuning slides all the way in when they put their horns away...
- hornbuilder
- Posts: 1384
- Joined: May 02, 2018
Not enough!! I say this to anyone that will listen. A rolling stone gathers no moss. ie, a moving tuning slide doesn't get stuck!! It takes maybe 5 seconds to push your slides in if you have a double valve bass, less if you have one or no valve. Thank your lucky stars you don't play French Horn!
- baBposaune
- Posts: 391
- Joined: Jan 21, 2019
[quote="hornbuilder"]Not enough!! I say this to anyone that will listen. A rolling stone gathers no moss. ie, a moving tuning slide doesn't get stuck!! It takes maybe 5 seconds to push your slides in if you have a double valve bass, less if you have one or no valve. Thank your lucky stars you don't play French Horn![/quote]
100% agree with this, Matthew! Too many stuck slides are the result of neglect.
As to the original question on this thread: if I have slightly loose slides I like Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease or Dupont Molykote. They do not melt in hot environments and the slides stay where you put them, yet move easily and keep moisture build up between inner and outer tubes to a minimum.
If I have tighter slides I will use something like Berp Biolube or Ultrapure light grease. I wipe off and check my tuning slides for oxidation about once every 4 months. If they are not oxidized I re-apply grease, if they are then I clean them and grease. I've never had a stuck tuning slide on any bass trombone I've owned over the past 45 years and I've probably owned a cumulative total of 10 instruments. At least, that's how many my wife knows about...
100% agree with this, Matthew! Too many stuck slides are the result of neglect.
As to the original question on this thread: if I have slightly loose slides I like Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease or Dupont Molykote. They do not melt in hot environments and the slides stay where you put them, yet move easily and keep moisture build up between inner and outer tubes to a minimum.
If I have tighter slides I will use something like Berp Biolube or Ultrapure light grease. I wipe off and check my tuning slides for oxidation about once every 4 months. If they are not oxidized I re-apply grease, if they are then I clean them and grease. I've never had a stuck tuning slide on any bass trombone I've owned over the past 45 years and I've probably owned a cumulative total of 10 instruments. At least, that's how many my wife knows about...
- Johnstad
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
I have been having really good luck with the Shilke Tuning Slide Grease lately.
- Johnstad
- Posts: 225
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="fourtissimo"]<QUOTE author="ssking2b" post_id="258574" time="1731596961" user_id="3785">
I just got turned on to the Ultrapure heavy tuning slide grease. It is incredible!!![/quote]
I put this on my horn a while back and it made my tuning slides VERY hard to move for a few weeks. Wouldn't be much of an issue except when taking my horn in and out of the case. I wonder what percentage of players push their tuning slides all the way in when they put their horns away...
</QUOTE>
That stuff works well on a tuning slide that won't stay in place. That's the only time I use that one.
I just got turned on to the Ultrapure heavy tuning slide grease. It is incredible!!![/quote]
I put this on my horn a while back and it made my tuning slides VERY hard to move for a few weeks. Wouldn't be much of an issue except when taking my horn in and out of the case. I wonder what percentage of players push their tuning slides all the way in when they put their horns away...
</QUOTE>
That stuff works well on a tuning slide that won't stay in place. That's the only time I use that one.
- BarryDaniels
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Nov 11, 2023
I tried the Berp Biolube and it did not work well. So I went back to the Yamaha stuff.
- CheeseTray
- Posts: 115
- Joined: Apr 21, 2018
Anhydrous lanolin
- Driswood
- Posts: 308
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
It depends on the fit of the tuning slide.
For a tight fitting slide I use the Bach red stuff.
For a loose fitting slide I use Zaza with anhydrous lanolin. Hetman’s has a thick slide grease that works well.
I had a 16M that had a loose tuning slide that would go closed while it was on the trombone stand. That’s when I got the anhydrous lanolin.
One note on the lanolin - it’s REALLY stiff when it’s cold. Slide won’t move freely until it warms up.
For a tight fitting slide I use the Bach red stuff.
For a loose fitting slide I use Zaza with anhydrous lanolin. Hetman’s has a thick slide grease that works well.
I had a 16M that had a loose tuning slide that would go closed while it was on the trombone stand. That’s when I got the anhydrous lanolin.
One note on the lanolin - it’s REALLY stiff when it’s cold. Slide won’t move freely until it warms up.
- ghmerrill
- Posts: 2193
- Joined: Apr 02, 2018
[quote="baBposaune"]As to the original question on this thread: if I have slightly loose slides I like Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease or Dupont Molykote.[/quote]
I'm a long time user of the Dow product. Can you describe any differences between it and the Dupont Molykote? Have you tried the Dow Molykote (111)?
I'm a long time user of the Dow product. Can you describe any differences between it and the Dupont Molykote? Have you tried the Dow Molykote (111)?
- baBposaune
- Posts: 391
- Joined: Jan 21, 2019
They are essentially the same. No difference as far as I can tell.