gold plating
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
Last week i have bought a galvanic plating kit. Now i go on plating all my mouthpieces with gold. Its realy easy and
makes much fun. The price for the kit pay off if i plated 7 mouthpieces.
<LINK_TEXT text="https://www.real-gold.de/en/produkte/ga ... lating-kit">https://www.real-gold.de/en/produkte/galvanikanlagen-komplett-set/79/gold-plating-kit</LINK_TEXT>
makes much fun. The price for the kit pay off if i plated 7 mouthpieces.
<LINK_TEXT text="https://www.real-gold.de/en/produkte/ga ... lating-kit">https://www.real-gold.de/en/produkte/galvanikanlagen-komplett-set/79/gold-plating-kit</LINK_TEXT>
- Neo_Bri
- Posts: 1342
- Joined: Mar 21, 2018
I will be curious to see how the plating holds up under playing conditions. I hope you'll keep us updated with progress and pictures.
- Driswood
- Posts: 308
- Joined: Mar 24, 2018
It's my understanding you need a layer of silver plate on a brass mouthpiece for the gold to adhere to. Is that correct?
- dukesboneman
- Posts: 935
- Joined: Apr 02, 2018
Yes , the mouthpiece must be silver plated 1st before applying the Gold Plating
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
There needs to be a barrier layer between gold and brass. Otherwise, the gold will diffuse into the brass and "disappear". I had this happen with a rhodium plate on a mouthpiece. It took a couple of decades, but now the mouthpiece looks like it was never plated (except for a couple of whitish wisps on corners).
Barrier layers can be silver or nickel. Silver is preferred on brass because it is closer in hardness to the brass and thus will not tend to flake.
You need a significant barrier layer to work. The normal silver plating thickness is usually good enough. Generally 100 microinches (2.5 micron).
Barrier layers can be silver or nickel. Silver is preferred on brass because it is closer in hardness to the brass and thus will not tend to flake.
You need a significant barrier layer to work. The normal silver plating thickness is usually good enough. Generally 100 microinches (2.5 micron).
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
Yes, the mouthpiece must first silver plated. I have plated 7 mouthpieces with different timbre of gold. From yellow to deep rosegold timbre. Also my Helmut Voigt alto trombone. The bell in a light redish gold. The rest of the instrument in silver. Over the silver i have plated Palladium, so their is no oxidation. If i have time, i will post some pics.
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="heinzgries"]Yes, the mouthpiece must first silver plated. I have plated 7 mouthpieces with different timbre of gold. From yellow to deep rosegold timbre. Also my Helmut Voigt alto trombone. The bell in a light redish gold. The rest of the instrument in silver. Over the silver i have plated Palladium, so their is no oxidation. If i have time, i will post some pics.[/quote]
That would be interesting! I'd also be interested in knowing how the plating resists over time.
That would be interesting! I'd also be interested in knowing how the plating resists over time.
- Doug_Elliott
- Posts: 4155
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
Many platers will automatically put nickel under gold, but that is the worst thing you can do to a mouthpiece.
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="Doug Elliott"]Many platers will automatically put nickel under gold, but that is the worst thing you can do to a mouthpiece.[/quote]
Why?
Why?
- Doug_Elliott
- Posts: 4155
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
Which why?
Why they do it - it's very shiny and looks good.
Why you shouldn't do it - most people become sensitive to nickel so when the gold wears off you're in trouble. Also it's very difficult to remove the nickel if you want to get rid of it and do it right with silver.
Why they do it - it's very shiny and looks good.
Why you shouldn't do it - most people become sensitive to nickel so when the gold wears off you're in trouble. Also it's very difficult to remove the nickel if you want to get rid of it and do it right with silver.
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="Doug Elliott"]Which why?
Why they do it - it's very shiny and looks good.
Why you shouldn't do it - most people become sensitive to nickel so when the gold wears off you're in trouble. Also it's very difficult to remove the nickel if you want to get rid of it and do it right with silver.[/quote]
Thanks for both responses :-)
So what's the right way of doing it?
Why they do it - it's very shiny and looks good.
Why you shouldn't do it - most people become sensitive to nickel so when the gold wears off you're in trouble. Also it's very difficult to remove the nickel if you want to get rid of it and do it right with silver.[/quote]
Thanks for both responses :-)
So what's the right way of doing it?
- WGWTR180
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Sep 04, 2019
[quote="SwissTbone"]<QUOTE author="Doug Elliott" post_id="134996" time="1608974981" user_id="51">
Which why?
Why they do it - it's very shiny and looks good.
Why you shouldn't do it - most people become sensitive to nickel so when the gold wears off you're in trouble. Also it's very difficult to remove the nickel if you want to get rid of it and do it right with silver.[/quote]
Thanks for both responses :-)
So what's the right way of doing it?
</QUOTE>
Silver plating first. Gold second if I'm reading Doug's post correctly.
Which why?
Why they do it - it's very shiny and looks good.
Why you shouldn't do it - most people become sensitive to nickel so when the gold wears off you're in trouble. Also it's very difficult to remove the nickel if you want to get rid of it and do it right with silver.[/quote]
Thanks for both responses :-)
So what's the right way of doing it?
</QUOTE>
Silver plating first. Gold second if I'm reading Doug's post correctly.
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
correct. But first you must polish the mouthpiece to a high gloss and degrease it.
The shine does not come from the gold plating, but from the properties of the substrate. If this is mat, the gold plating will also look mat.
The shine does not come from the gold plating, but from the properties of the substrate. If this is mat, the gold plating will also look mat.
- SwissTbone
- Posts: 1138
- Joined: Mar 23, 2018
[quote="heinzgries"]correct[/quote]
Heinz, can you control how thick the plating is becomes with this method?
Heinz, can you control how thick the plating is becomes with this method?
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
not realy. This is only measurable with x-ray technology.if a closed layer is optically created, I go 1-2 more times over the mouthpiece with the gold electrolyte
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
Heinz is probably using a procedure called "brush plating" which is a way to touch up spots of bad plating. You don't have as much control over the thickness, which is a function of the amperage, voltage, and time which in turn becomes a function of the geometry of the part to be plated. What Doug uses (and what is normally done to mouthpieces) is tank plating where the mouthpiece is submerged in a solution and the voltage and amperage is carefully controlled to compensate for the geometry. Tank plating also results in a brighter and more uniform coating.
As to silver versus nickel as the barrier layer: I mentioned above that nickel is a relatively stiff plating, put on a soft brass underlayer with a soft gold coat above. The mouthpiece is subject to vibration, which can exacerbate the differences in hardness between brass and nickel resulting in flaking and adhesion failure between nickel and gold. Silver is closer in hardness to brass and gold and provides a better barrier layer.
As to silver versus nickel as the barrier layer: I mentioned above that nickel is a relatively stiff plating, put on a soft brass underlayer with a soft gold coat above. The mouthpiece is subject to vibration, which can exacerbate the differences in hardness between brass and nickel resulting in flaking and adhesion failure between nickel and gold. Silver is closer in hardness to brass and gold and provides a better barrier layer.
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
Bruce is right.
I can also make a little tank plating, if i put the kathode on the mouthpiece and dip it into a small cup with goldelelektrolyd. Then dip the anode into the cup beside the mouthpiece. 5-6 V and let it in for a few minutes.
I can also make a little tank plating, if i put the kathode on the mouthpiece and dip it into a small cup with goldelelektrolyd. Then dip the anode into the cup beside the mouthpiece. 5-6 V and let it in for a few minutes.
- Crazy4Tbone86
- Posts: 1654
- Joined: Jan 14, 2020
It is my understanding that every plating alloy has a very specific voltage at which it plates and bonds best with the brass or plating layer that is beneath it. I don't believe the voltage is the same for nickel, silver and gold plating. Exact voltage control for each alloy is not achieved by many people who do brush plating. This is one of the reasons that brush plating does not last long for many do-it-yourself folks. Another reason that plating does not hold is lack of proper preparation and degreasing of the metals.
- BGuttman
- Posts: 7368
- Joined: Mar 22, 2018
Absolutely right, Brian. The proper voltage for each metal is different (although not different for each substrate -- adhesion is a function of surface preparation. Some metals require a rough surface to adhere and others work on a smooth surface.). If the voltage is too low, nothing plates. If the voltage is too high, a very rough coating results. And the regulation has to be within 1/10 of a volt.
There is quite a science to plating, which is why there are places that specialize in that process, such as Anderson Plating. In my history of Printed Circuit Board manufacture, I had to be familiar with plating of copper, nickel (our barrier layer for gold contacts), and gold. Each plating line consisted of several baths (cleaners, etchers, low concentration high voltage "strike" plate, and full plate). And lots of analysis to keep the baths working in proper order.
Also, there are limits to what can be plated. Only some alloys can be plated, and not all metals. Some materials need to be applied using some other form, like flame coating. Also, the economics of tank plating limit the ability to plate any metal. Some metals use extremely toxic solutions (like gold), some metals use solutions severely regulated by pollution regulations (like chromium).
There is quite a science to plating, which is why there are places that specialize in that process, such as Anderson Plating. In my history of Printed Circuit Board manufacture, I had to be familiar with plating of copper, nickel (our barrier layer for gold contacts), and gold. Each plating line consisted of several baths (cleaners, etchers, low concentration high voltage "strike" plate, and full plate). And lots of analysis to keep the baths working in proper order.
Also, there are limits to what can be plated. Only some alloys can be plated, and not all metals. Some materials need to be applied using some other form, like flame coating. Also, the economics of tank plating limit the ability to plate any metal. Some metals use extremely toxic solutions (like gold), some metals use solutions severely regulated by pollution regulations (like chromium).
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
[quote="Crazy4Tbone86"]This is one of the reasons that brush plating does not last long for many do-it-yourself folks. Another reason that plating does not hold is lack of proper preparation and degreasing of the metals.[/quote]
that may be true for many hobbyists, but i'm very thorough. I polish the surface to a high shine with a polishing machine. Then it is thoroughly degreased. During work I wear disposable gloves that are often changed. The 25 A power supply is adjustable between 2.5 and 15 V. For example, silver needs max. 3 V, gold between 5.5 and 7.5 V. For each electrolyte there is its own cup and its own brush. I also use different electrodes. For silver stainless steel, for gold graphite.
The optical results are great. The shelf life will only become apparent over time.
that may be true for many hobbyists, but i'm very thorough. I polish the surface to a high shine with a polishing machine. Then it is thoroughly degreased. During work I wear disposable gloves that are often changed. The 25 A power supply is adjustable between 2.5 and 15 V. For example, silver needs max. 3 V, gold between 5.5 and 7.5 V. For each electrolyte there is its own cup and its own brush. I also use different electrodes. For silver stainless steel, for gold graphite.
The optical results are great. The shelf life will only become apparent over time.
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
here are two pics from my plating session. The first, Helmut Voigt alto, bell rosegold plated, tuning slide in gold and the rest in silver. The second pic, mouthpiece rosegold, rim gold.

<IMGUR id="c4HWBkz">https://i.imgur.com/c4HWBkz.jpg</IMGUR>

<IMGUR id="srm6bQs">https://i.imgur.com/srm6bQs.jpg</IMGUR>

<IMGUR id="c4HWBkz">https://i.imgur.com/c4HWBkz.jpg</IMGUR>

<IMGUR id="srm6bQs">https://i.imgur.com/srm6bQs.jpg</IMGUR>
- harrisonreed
- Posts: 6479
- Joined: Aug 17, 2018
Looks good! Nice left handed Alto!
The counter weight looks like it would get in the way of my neck, but it looks unique and cool!
The counter weight looks like it would get in the way of my neck, but it looks unique and cool!
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
[quote="harrisonreed"]Looks good! Nice left handed Alto!
The counter weight looks like it would get in the way of my neck, but it looks unique and cool![/quote]
its a bit behind the neck. There is enough room. And my neck is not small :biggrin:
The counter weight looks like it would get in the way of my neck, but it looks unique and cool![/quote]
its a bit behind the neck. There is enough room. And my neck is not small :biggrin:
- jbeatenbough
- Posts: 338
- Joined: Dec 13, 2019
Any update on how the plating is holding up?
- heinzgries
- Posts: 250
- Joined: Apr 24, 2018
[quote="jbeatenbough"]Any update on how the plating is holding up?[/quote]
to this day everything still looks great
to this day everything still looks great